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Old September 18th, 2010, 10:30 AM   #21
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i have a feeling my imrc are not opening as well, i need to seafoam it i know i do.
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Old September 18th, 2010, 11:20 PM   #22
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you can reach behind your intake against your firewall and if you look around back there you can find the springs on the rods tie them open and see what happens.
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Old September 19th, 2010, 10:17 AM   #23
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springs and rods? to the imrcs? u can open them manually?
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Old September 19th, 2010, 06:38 PM   #24
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man 279 for those deletes... is it worth it to buy them when you can do it yourself on the stock ones?
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Old September 19th, 2010, 09:22 PM   #25
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yes you can def open them manually and im not sure how hard it is to do them yourself but im going to try it. ha
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Old September 19th, 2010, 09:28 PM   #26
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theres a good thread around about deleting them. some years have plastic ones and others have metal ones. i guess you can jb weld them. im not 100% sure what they said, but worth looking into.

im thinking of throwing a d1sc on mine soon and i guess if im gonna drop the buck for the blower i better spend a little more and delete the imrc's right
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Old September 20th, 2010, 05:16 PM   #27
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hmmmm ima seafoam the car and see how that goes before i open them maunaully
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Old September 20th, 2010, 06:34 PM   #28
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opening them manually is not permanant i wish i could show you just reach behind your intake against your firewall and you will feel something like a throttle body spring you can turn it just like a throttle cable at the throttle body...with the car OFF you can here them click open to make sure they even open
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Old September 20th, 2010, 07:28 PM   #29
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the 98's have the plastic, and jb weld is NOT a good idea. These imrc's come in contact with heat and oil. I had 2 mustang shops tell me not to use jb weld on them. So i found some 96-97's because they are aluminum, and had the holes welded shut. the plastic ones are desirable cause of weight and heat transfer reasons.
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Old September 20th, 2010, 08:19 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by red96stang View Post
opening them manually is not permanant i wish i could show you just reach behind your intake against your firewall and you will feel something like a throttle body spring you can turn it just like a throttle cable at the throttle body...with the car OFF you can here them click open to make sure they even open
i never knew u can open them like that thanx for info ima check and here if mine open up, also how can you sell if there is like a electrical problem and they dont open at all
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Old September 20th, 2010, 09:39 PM   #31
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That im not sure mine werent opening at all too gummed up im assuming ill know when i take it apart or my actuator wasnt strong enough...but opening them like that it dont matter once you see what im talking about you will know how to zip tie them and you can see if you even like how it drives with them open all the time if you dont cut the zip ties...
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Old September 23rd, 2010, 03:33 PM   #32
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Hey seafoam does work great but how many miles is on the car? I bought a 96 cobra from with 129,000 on it and is hesitated real bad when i first got it in low end and they would finally open fully til around 3600RPM due to sticking real bad. factory being 3250 so im told.. The seafoam helped but didnt fix the problem so i took the intake off and cleaned then made the diff between night and day, have pics of what they look like at 129,000 miles not pretty..

Also gears will help with the delete and SC
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Old September 27th, 2010, 10:06 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by 98Cobra_sleeper View Post
the 98's have the plastic, and jb weld is NOT a good idea. These imrc's come in contact with heat and oil. I had 2 mustang shops tell me not to use jb weld on them. So i found some 96-97's because they are aluminum, and had the holes welded shut. the plastic ones are desirable cause of weight and heat transfer reasons.
Been running my JB Weld plastic IMRC's in my car for over 8yrs now. In fact everyone of my IMRC's I sell use JB weld. I haven't had one come back saying the JB weld came apart.

The key is using JB Weld Industrial. Not JB Quick set. The industrial has a higher heat threshold (550*) so your motor will never go near that.

Keasbey- I make IMRC deletes for $100 less than what you found. I should have 1 set of plastics and 1 alum done by this weekend. Let me know if you need a set.
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Old September 27th, 2010, 03:37 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by 96cobraMystic View Post
Hey seafoam does work great but how many miles is on the car? I bought a 96 cobra from with 129,000 on it and is hesitated real bad when i first got it in low end and they would finally open fully til around 3600RPM due to sticking real bad. factory being 3250 so im told.. The seafoam helped but didnt fix the problem so i took the intake off and cleaned then made the diff between night and day, have pics of what they look like at 129,000 miles not pretty..

Also gears will help with the delete and SC
can u post the pics?
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Old September 27th, 2010, 10:02 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by bitemark46 View Post
Been running my JB Weld plastic IMRC's in my car for over 8yrs now. In fact everyone of my IMRC's I sell use JB weld. I haven't had one come back saying the JB weld came apart.

The key is using JB Weld Industrial. Not JB Quick set. The industrial has a higher heat threshold (550*) so your motor will never go near that.

Keasbey- I make IMRC deletes for $100 less than what you found. I should have 1 set of plastics and 1 alum done by this weekend. Let me know if you need a set.
well im impressed, i didn't know that. I only went with what i was told, i really wish i woulda met u sooner lol. i woulnd't have gotten rid of my plastic ones!
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