Possible causes for zero compression on one side
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Old January 5th, 2011, 12:55 AM   #1
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Possible causes for zero compression on one side


I don't think the engine is blown. The mufflers were collapsed due to scraping from the former owner. I think it plugged the engine. It had new cats installed and ran for a short time. Then there were a couple loud pops and it quit running. They took the mufflers off and it runs, really erratic, but runs. It is a 4.6 DOHC. No smoke or steam from the exhaust.
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Old January 5th, 2011, 04:48 PM   #2
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You might have four dead hamsters on one side.....hit up petsmart
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Old January 6th, 2011, 07:54 AM   #3
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rob had that happen on his mach and it was a broken secondary timing chain.
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Old January 6th, 2011, 08:50 AM   #4
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You ran a compression check on all 4 cylinders on the bank and they came up zero? I would assumne if the timing chain failed you may have possible have valve damage on all 4 of those cylinders due to the pistons hitting into the valves.
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Old January 6th, 2011, 02:25 PM   #5
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would the timing chain fall into the oil pan or pieces of it if it broke? id say pull the oil pan.. but on these cars gotta pull the K member or the engine...or..... lift the engine high enough up to slide it off.. thats whatd id do tho
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Old January 6th, 2011, 03:28 PM   #6
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depending on how it breaks, it might or might not fall. but the timing tensioner will more than likely come apart and parts from it will fall into pan. its a lot easier to drop the k, than it is to lift and tryto get to pan.
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Old January 6th, 2011, 05:15 PM   #7
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agreed with sweet.. drop the k and pull the pan bro and see what u find.. might even be able to drain the oil and some might come out with it
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Old January 7th, 2011, 12:00 AM   #8
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I know nothing about these modular motors. The mechanics that looked at it felt that the valves were probably damaged, and pieces most likely did fall into the cylinders, causing damage. They are saying that it would be easier and safer to replace the motor, about $4k for the motor, and $1k for the labor. Thanks for the responses. Good info.
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Old January 7th, 2011, 01:42 AM   #9
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4 G's? damn, thats expensive. you can get a hell of a built engine for that. as for the valves, more than likely they are all hurt if the timing chain broke. at the same time the guides will need replaced as well. the valves will leave little dimples on the pistons, but shouldnt hurt the pistons at all.
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Old January 7th, 2011, 07:10 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by sledgehammer357 View Post
I know nothing about these modular motors. The mechanics that looked at it felt that the valves were probably damaged, and pieces most likely did fall into the cylinders, causing damage. They are saying that it would be easier and safer to replace the motor, about $4k for the motor, and $1k for the labor. Thanks for the responses. Good info.
Did the shop have the tools avaiable to pull the plugs and run a scope into the cylinder to check for damamge or are they just guessing.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 12:29 AM   #11
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Just guessing. That's what made me start looking around, checking into the forum scene. I figured the car owners themselves would know best. I thought $4k for an engine was pricey, but that seems to be the average. They are running more than that on eBay for used engines. This is crazy. I just want to get the car on the road.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 01:07 AM   #12
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no way man. that price better include installation and warranty.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 02:10 PM   #13
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A Shop in Sacramento wanted $2k for labor alone to r & r the engine, plus $4,500 for the engine, plus any belts, hoses, fluids. If anybody out there knows of better prices, it would be appreciated.
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Old January 9th, 2011, 08:29 PM   #14
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i dont charge that, but you are quiet a distance as well.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 02:58 PM   #15
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man yall's shops are ripping yall a new one.. thats a hell of a price for a simple pull and replace of an engine.. id say o it yourself.. half the ppl on here could walk u thru it if u have the tools
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Old January 24th, 2011, 08:43 PM   #16
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I decided to do this alone. Screw the mechanics. I am having a tough time getting the valve cover off on the drivers side. Any suggestions is appreciated. I did notice that the inside chain under the cover is broken. Is that a bitch to replace? Is it doable without tearing the engine down?
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Old January 25th, 2011, 02:17 AM   #17
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i have a 97 cobra engine and when it was in my sn95 i had to remove the upper intake and disconnect the clutch cable from the tranny and pull it up to give more room for the valve cover to come up...

but as for the chain.. theyre pretty simple to replace... but...... its ever good when a chain breaks.. usually when that happens valves start bending and what not.. i'd do one of 2 things..
1. pull he head that the chain broke on and check out valves..

2. replace chain and do a cylinder leak down test too see if there is any loss is compression thru the valves..
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Old January 25th, 2011, 04:37 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by sledgehammer357 View Post
I did notice that the inside chain under the cover is broken. Is that a bitch to replace? Is it doable without tearing the engine down?
If the chain is broken there will be bent valves and that will require the engine to be disassembled.

To answer your question, the chains can be replaced without tearing down the engine.
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Old January 25th, 2011, 09:20 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG View Post
rob had that happen on his mach and it was a broken secondary timing chain.
Yep. It makes for a good excuse to build things bigger and better than they were before. Right?
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