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Old February 12th, 2011, 06:32 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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IMRC questions


i threw a code (P1405) saying that my IMRCs aren't working properly in my 1997 cobra. took it to a shop to have the code pulled, and the mechanic told me they weren't opening like they should or something. what does this mean exactly?

i've heard of IMRC deletes, what is that? according to him, this is something that will cause me to fail emissions, and it's a very expensive fix. what are my options here? thanks.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 06:47 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by BWAL View Post
i threw a code (P1405) saying that my IMRCs aren't working properly in my 1997 cobra. took it to a shop to have the code pulled, and the mechanic told me they weren't opening like they should or something. what does this mean exactly?

i've heard of IMRC deletes, what is that? according to him, this is something that will cause me to fail emissions, and it's a very expensive fix. what are my options here? thanks.
IMRCs control when a second pathyway for air opens to flow more air into the combustion chamber.

Most likely, they are clogged up with carbon. Take off your intake manifold remove the IMRC's and clean.

They will most likely work after that.

You could also get 98 IMRCs these were designed better and are a direct swap. They don't plug up like the previous ones.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 07:00 PM   #3
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thanks, that pretty much answers my question.

do you think running gas treatment over a few tanks will do anything?
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Old February 12th, 2011, 07:04 PM   #4
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nevermind, dumb question lol
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Old February 12th, 2011, 07:07 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by BWAL View Post
thanks, that pretty much answers my question.

do you think running gas treatment over a few tanks will do anything?
unfortunately, no because no fuel is mixed with the second port. That is why it clogs up in the first place.

If you want you could try seafoam. Add ALL of it directly through a vacuum hose.

Idle the engine and pour in. Do not let it stall or pour too fast, because you could hydrolock.

They say to add to your fuel and oil, but F that...

adding it to your fuel will not clean what you need cleaned,
and adding it to your oil is just plain stupid
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Old February 12th, 2011, 07:13 PM   #6
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thanks for the help. repped.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 03:46 PM   #7
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i vote for the IMRC deletes. even though this isn't a poll
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Old February 14th, 2011, 03:57 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 101fng View Post
i vote for the IMRC deletes. even though this isn't a poll
what is that exactly?
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Old February 14th, 2011, 04:05 PM   #9
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Old February 14th, 2011, 04:31 PM   #10
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IMRC deletes are overrated.

You don't gain hp, and you have a soggy lower end until you tune (more money)

Just clean them, and they will perform just fine. My DD is a mark viii, and at 113k miles, i do not any problems with the imrc's not opening up.

More than likely its because I floor it every chance i get
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Old February 14th, 2011, 06:42 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by 101fng View Post
i vote for the IMRC deletes. even though this isn't a poll
X2.

no more headaches once they are gone. only thing is you will need a custom on a XCal to keep any codes from comming up and you will need some more timing in your tune to make up for the low-end power loss. i deleted my IMRC's on my Mark VIII swapped GT, it was very easy to do (i made my own delete plates out of the plastic ones my motor came with) i have no low end power loss but i have 26* of timing down low in my tune.

but like said before, if money is tight, they can be cleaned up and put back on and they should work they way they are supposed to afterward.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 10:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by LGHTNG02GT View Post
X2.

no more headaches once they are gone. only thing is you will need a custom on a XCal to keep any codes from comming up and you will need some more timing in your tune to make up for the low-end power loss. i deleted my IMRC's on my Mark VIII swapped GT, it was very easy to do (i made my own delete plates out of the plastic ones my motor came with) i have no low end power loss but i have 26* of timing down low in my tune.

but like said before, if money is tight, they can be cleaned up and put back on and they should work they way they are supposed to afterward.
26*????

That is way too much

20 degrees is about the most you ever need at max rpm/load
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Old February 15th, 2011, 03:38 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by majorownage View Post
26*????

That is way too much

20 degrees is about the most you ever need at max rpm/load
I'm at 34* from idle to 4000 then its pulled a little the higher I go.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 05:15 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bitemark46 View Post
I'm at 34* from idle to 4000 then its pulled a little the higher I go.

i have 26* down low and 30* up top in my tune so mine is set up very similar to yours just with a few less degrees. i am very pleased with the way mine runs.

&&btw, that you for the help you gave me a few months back man!
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Old February 15th, 2011, 07:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by majorownage View Post
IMRC deletes are overrated.
You don't gain hp, and you have a soggy lower end until you tune
IMRC deletes are worth some hp, it's been proven on the dyno. Also, the lower end will not be soggy if timing is added below 3250rpm.

Originally Posted by LGHTNG02GT View Post
no more headaches once they are gone. only thing is you will need a custom on a XCal to keep any codes from comming up and you will need some more timing in your tune to make up for the low-end power loss.
You need a tune but you don't need an xcal to get one. The only reason one would need a hand held tuner is if they wanted to have multiple tunes or make minor changes to the tune. Most people that have handheld tuners do nothing with them.

Originally Posted by majorownage View Post
26*????
That is way too much
20 degrees is about the most you ever need at max rpm/load
Seriously? I ran 28 degrees with 10.8:1 compression and 93 octane and 30 degrees from 4500-7k with the stock engine. 20 degrees is low boost power adder timing and defintely not for good n/a hp.

Originally Posted by bitemark46 View Post
I'm at 34* from idle to 4000 then its pulled a little the higher I go.
You only run mid 11s, what do you know?

Last edited by na svt; February 15th, 2011 at 07:19 PM.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 07:26 PM   #16
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isn't that alot more than stock? I've used a timing light on mine, and there is not near as much timing; like 22max. Maybe running 87 octane was setting of the knock sensors
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Old February 15th, 2011, 08:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by majorownage View Post
isn't that alot more than stock?
Yes
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Old February 19th, 2011, 11:10 PM   #18
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Well i did the the imrc runner delete on my 96 cobra id say its about the same either way if your runners are hesitating. I added mine back after cleaning them up and gasket matching them feel the car runs much better. who has the deltes with tune is it a big diff? Well not to change the subject but you guys running that high of a timing on our year cobras with just bolt-on? if so what should i try with jlt cai, steeda pullies, ngk plugs(.52 gapping), accufabb full flat tb, steeda timing adjuster, alum drive shaft, sct tune? Thanks gary
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Old February 21st, 2011, 12:16 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by majorownage View Post
26*????

That is way too much

20 degrees is about the most you ever need at max rpm/load
Dude, since when are you a tuner? He's talking about an N/A setup...he could run up to 35* if he wanted. 20* would suck on a street car. Finish up college bro...and take a couple of engineering classes while you're at it.

OP: You prolly have some build up in them...remove intake and run some brake cleaner over them and the actuator...you'll be all right.
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