I know this will probably get moved, but...
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Old February 20th, 2011, 10:08 AM   #1
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I know this will probably get moved, but...


Let me hear some opinions from the people with power and experience before it gets sent into general discussion.

Before I get my house I was thinking about getting either a 99-02 Firebird Trans Am WS6 6 speed or a 99-02 Camaro SS 6 speed because my Mach has the miles that it has. I know something can go wrong anytime and its not so much of a money issue as it would be a time issue and I need transportation for work so I can actually make the money to fix it. Lol.

As far as I know, its an almost identical drivetrain, and the only thing I can think of is the cams and valve train being different. Is either one more responsive to bolt ons or better handling, or is it so similar that I should base it off of styling and best deal?

I just want least 3 or 4 opinions first before its moved.

I might get a GTO if I can find one with the LS2, but it seems like they're all automatic around here, not only that, but it would be an extra $5k probably.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 10:19 AM   #2
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why not just have the engine rebuilt assuming you have an extra car to get you from and back from work mean while the car is at the shop
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Old February 20th, 2011, 10:27 AM   #3
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No, all I have is my Mach. Besides, I want to start my muscle car collection young! Lol.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 10:30 AM   #4
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One shop around here wanted $8,000 for just an engine rebuild and that didn't even include the turbo set up I wanted to do. I could pick up an entire car for that much! Lol.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 10:41 AM   #5
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then it really depends on what you want. you can keep your stang or get one of those other cars. with the engine rebuilt you can have semi-low compression pistons that are boost ready, and when ever you get the money you should see pretty good result with the rebuilt engine, as compared with the other cars the engines are used and probobly not capable of handleing 14lb's of boost
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Old February 20th, 2011, 10:45 AM   #6
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I forgot to mention that the GM would be an additional car, not a replacement.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 10:47 AM   #7
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I probably won't boost my Mach in the end. If I do rebuild, its going to be NA. That GM 6 speed would be a better candidate for boost.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 12:23 PM   #8
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how many miles does your Mach have?
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Old February 20th, 2011, 03:41 PM   #9
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why rebuild your mach? Does it run fine?
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Old February 20th, 2011, 07:01 PM   #10
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109k miles. It runs great, but I don't like surprises.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 07:54 PM   #11
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Thats not that many miles at all. 4vs have good power. They respond well to mods. Not sure what your asking here?
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Old February 20th, 2011, 08:05 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Calogero6685 View Post
109k miles. It runs great, but I don't like surprises.
bro, you have many happy years in front of you. 8k for a rebuild is off the chain expensive, and they probably are not experts in modular engines. They are not harder to work on, but they are different.

Just keep your foot off the accelerator when it is cold...that is my only suggestion. Aluminum has a high coefficient of expansion, iron is not a susceptible.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 08:31 PM   #13
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You can buy an assembled short block for 2300 bucks. A monkey can bolt a oil pan and heads to a short block.
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Old February 20th, 2011, 11:57 PM   #14
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I've heard of people with 130+ miles running n2o and 4:10 as a daily driver so I know these engines can last, but like I said, I don't like surprises. What I'm worried about is the valve train, little things like retainers and valves being sucked through. How expensive is it to get everything seated and rebuilt on the top end and replace the timing. I don't know if its been replaced or not (Timing), but I've heard if people needing to replace it at 75K but I'm way past that and I hear no slap. Is there anyway to tell if its been replaced, or just buy the parts and wait?
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Old February 21st, 2011, 12:03 AM   #15
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Also, that's another thing (major), I would with all types of material (aluminum, 302, 303, 304, 440 , titanium, and so on) and aluminum always stays hot way after I mill or sandbelt. Is it normal for my gauge to register a temp after sitting for 2 hours? That's one reason I asked about the amount of heat escaping through the cut out in the hood in that other thread.
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