[Mach1Foreman]

I was Thinking of going with an eaton sc from a cobra but its going to cost up to $2000. But instead I think I'm going to go with hooker headers, 4.10 gears, pullys and nitros. Anyone here have hookers and if so did u see good gains? As for gears are 4.10 to aggressive for a weekend driver/track and who makes good quality gears? What pullys are good, no bright Chrome ones either...? And for nitros what's the shot I should be at that would be safe?

[Mach Boy]

Keep your stock pulleys. LT headers are a good mod. 4.10 gears are the least aggressive you should go with a bolt-on Mach. If you get nitrous though that should be a good gear ratio to go with. With a good tune your car can do a 125-150 shot, but if you want to just play it safe stick with 100.

[Mach1Foreman]

How are u getting 360 HP with that beautiful compition Orange mach1 which I want so bad but couldnt find one when I was shopping around for a mach and found a ok dark shadow grey instead......?

[Mach Boy]

Mach Boy's 2004 Ford Mustang MACh 1

[03blackmach1]

Mach boy what are you running in the 1/4 mile?

[03blackmach1]

I dont mean to jack your thread man just very curios. And if mach1foreman if your going to be dragging at the track regularly, i'd invest in a good set of radials, it'll make a major difference

[Mach Boy]

I haven't been since the motor rebuild. I ran a 13.4 @ 106 with 4.10s, O/R X, RAI, and some suspension mods on street tires. I also missed 4th because my 5 speed wouldn't go into 4th at a high RPM. I know excuses excuses. It's my only car and I broke the secondary timing chain on the track that night (wife wasn't happy). So needless to say I won't be on the 1/4 until I have a second set of wheels.

OP if you don't care how you get your HP then go nitrous or FI. N/A is not cheap and I probably wouldn't have went that route if I didn't have the motor rebuilt. The valvetrain including cams needed replaced and I got a great deal on the FR500 kit. It's relatively mild as far as cams go, but much better than stock.

[vita]

Originally Posted by Mach Boy N/A is not cheap and I probably wouldn't have went that route if I didn't have the motor rebuilt. The valvetrain including cams needed replaced and I got a great deal on the FR500 kit. It's relatively mild as far as cams go, but much better than stock.

but cams sound SOOOOO sexy...

[Mach1dmb!]

Originally Posted by Mach Boy I haven't been since the motor rebuild. I ran a 13.4 @ 106 with 4.10s, O/R X, RAI, and some suspension mods on street tires. I also missed 4th because my 5 speed wouldn't go into 4th at a high RPM. I know excuses excuses. It's my only car and I broke the secondary timing chain on the track that night (wife wasn't happy). So needless to say I won't be on the 1/4 until I have a second set of wheels. OP if you don't care how you get your HP then go nitrous or FI. N/A is not cheap and I probably wouldn't have went that route if I didn't have the motor rebuilt. The valvetrain including cams needed replaced and I got a great deal on the FR500 kit. It's relatively mild as far as cams go, but much better than stock.

Hey just wondering, why would you need to decide whether your gonna stay N/A? What are some mods that would be good for a stock Mach that you might one day, in the very far future, may get a sc?

[Mach Boy]

You need to decide whether you are staying N/A or FI because cams and your choice of piston (when you break the motor open) need to be one or the other. An aggressive cam selection for N/A will be not as efficient as a cam specified for a FI setup. A high compression ratio is needed to get every last ounce of power for a N/A car. But if you go with high compression (pistons for the most part determine this) for a FI car then it can be bad on the motor.

So that's why you try to decide early on what you're going to do with the car before you start to build it. Another example is getting long tube headers when you plan to get a turbo down the road. You can't have LT headers with most turbo kits. Or buying a stock length midpipe when you want to get long tube headers next (you'll just be wasting your money).

[Mach Boy]

Originally Posted by vita but cams sound SOOOOO sexy...

You might recognize an FR500 cammed car is cammed if you listen close enough, but the average Joe wouldn't notice.

[na svt]

Originally Posted by Mach1Foreman I was Thinking of going with an eaton sc from a cobra but its going to cost up to $2000. But instead I think I'm going to go with hooker headers, 4.10 gears, pullys and nitros. Anyone here have hookers and if so did u see good gains? As for gears are 4.10 to aggressive for a weekend driver/track and who makes good quality gears? What pullys are good, no bright Chrome ones either...? And for nitrous what's the shot I should be at that would be safe?

With the following mods you can be at 335rwhp:
-march damper #1158
-large water pump, alt and hydraboost pulleys
-LTs
-ported intake
90mm MAF

A 150 shot of n20 is safe as long as it's tuned. I'd go with no more than a 100 shot without a tune.

Headers will provide a small peak hp gain, but the gains below peak are huge; mid range hp and tq jump improvements are great.

Cams, on a stock longblock combo that may see a centri supercharger at a later date I will spec the cams for max n/a power. This maintains the preboost power after the supercharger is installed. On a PD blown combo the cam specs will change a little to accomodate the hgiher, low RPM boost.