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Old August 16th, 2011, 09:41 AM   #1
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NA SVT, come in on this one!


Still kinda bouncing around with what I want to do when it comes time to rebuild. I've decided not to go FI, so now I'm down to 4.6L or 5.1L stroker.

Obviously since I'm not going FI, I'll need the basic high compression, I'll wind up putting forged everything in, cams, ported heads, intake, blah blah blah, but a real big deciding factor is if a 5.1L stroker will cause too much heat? In other words, will it be streetable?

I'd love to have ~425 RWHP, but I don't know how high I'd have to spin to achieve that. Also, I'm getting my TR3650 built in December/January. Is there anything that would help/allow it to shift with high revs, since I've heard that trees don't like to be spun out that much.
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Old August 16th, 2011, 02:19 PM   #2
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You can get there with a .020" overbore stroker, no need for going with a 5.1 and it's .070" overbore.

425 is feasible but you will have to spin the engine quite high, higher than your trans will shift and higher than your computer will work.

Here's what I recommend:
11:1 CR
Cams, 230/228 deg installed at 108/112
1 3/4" primary long tubes
ported heads with valve seats opened up
Ported intake, stock runner or 10" short runner

With this combo you could get 400/370 with some killer midrange power. Shift point would be 7k so your trans and computer would have no issues.
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Old August 16th, 2011, 10:12 PM   #3
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Only 11:1? I thought is need more around 12:1 to put out 1.51 horsepower per cubic inch.

But let's say that I do go for the stroker kit (If the statement 'There is no replacement for displacement' is true, which would help me to get closer to my goal.), would that affect my power range or is that all in the cams?

Also, was it you that was selling the short runner intakes? (I remember that someone on here had them going for about $800.)
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Old August 16th, 2011, 10:22 PM   #4
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Why not go with a big bore or a big bore stroker?
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Old August 16th, 2011, 10:26 PM   #5
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What sizes would those be?
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Old August 17th, 2011, 05:29 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Calogero6685 View Post
Only 11:1? I thought is need more around 12:1 to put out 1.51 horsepower per cubic inch.

But let's say that I do go for the stroker kit (If the statement 'There is no replacement for displacement' is true, which would help me to get closer to my goal.), would that affect my power range or is that all in the cams?

Also, was it you that was selling the short runner intakes? (I remember that someone on here had them going for about $800.)
Displacement is power, but displacement also increases costs. Adding a big bore to the stroker increases cubic inches to 324, but at a minumum adds $1000 to the build. Going with an aluminum big bore block adds $1500.

Cams, intake and cubic inches all affect the powerband.
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Old August 17th, 2011, 06:44 AM   #7
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So how much will I be looking at for just the bottom end, cams, and ported intake (short runner) and heads (and valve seats)?
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Old August 17th, 2011, 07:31 AM   #8
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You can build it inexpensively if you use the iron block ($1k), cast crank ($400), and bolts instead of studs. The rods will be around $600 and the head work would around $1500. The pistons are a little pricey at $1000 but I have two sets of big bore pistons right now that I'm selling for $650 with rings.

There's no need for a forged crank unless you want to spinover 7500 and/or make over 550rwhp.

Last edited by na svt; August 17th, 2011 at 10:33 AM.
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Old August 17th, 2011, 10:25 AM   #9
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If I start buying parts (block, pistons, rods, cams, springs, rings, etc.), will most performance shops use the parts that I've bought as long as they're new?
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Old August 17th, 2011, 10:33 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Calogero6685 View Post
If I start buying parts (block, pistons, rods, cams, springs, rings, etc.), will most performance shops use the parts that I've bought as long as they're new?
yes
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Old August 17th, 2011, 11:07 AM   #11
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If I need such special stuff to turn that high, how is this guy's rev limiter is set at 8,200?

Are the 3V superior to the WAP/C heads?
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Old August 17th, 2011, 11:13 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Calogero6685 View Post
If I need such special stuff to turn that high, how is this guy's rev limiter is set at 8,200?
who's?

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 View Post
Are the 3V superior to the WAP/C heads?
No, not even close. BTW, there aren't any WAP heads.
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Old August 17th, 2011, 03:13 PM   #13
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Sorry, I forgot to post a link. It's the "bad day in Ohio" thread in the Autocross section.

No, I meant a WAP block with the C heads vs. a (I'm assuming cammed) 3V
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Old August 17th, 2011, 07:27 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Calogero6685 View Post
Sorry, I forgot to post a link. It's the "bad day in Ohio" thread in the Autocross section.

No, I meant a WAP block with the C heads vs. a (I'm assuming cammed) 3V
bad weekend at mid ohio
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 08:58 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Calogero6685 View Post
If I need such special stuff to turn that high, how is this guy's rev limiter is set at 8,200?
His rev limiter is set there, that's not shis shift point. A stock computer won't control the engine at 8200 nor will a road racing the trans shift that high.
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Old August 23rd, 2011, 09:53 AM   #16
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It's not too hard to accomplish your goal, before I sold my Mach I was contemplating a similar build. I discussed this at lengths with Paul from Paul's High Performance before deciding on going FI.

I just wish that I had waited and taken the car to Paul's instead of Walsh Motorsports....
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