[Calogero6685]

How much heat does a 5.3L kit put out? As in, would it be safe for the street? I'm going to match that with stage 3 ported factory heads and stage 3 cams when the engine goes.

If I do basic modifications not like CAI/RAI, full exhaust, MAF, throttle body, etc, will that put a restriction to the rest of my 122,xxx mile engine? I want stuff that I'll swap over after the build, but if it will be harmful, then I can wait.

Also, I've been contemplating a T56 (Buy used, have built.) depending on their RPM limit between shifts. Then again, this might be pointless/unnecessary since I'm going NA, that, and I'd have to buy an aftermarket driveshaft (All ready have FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft), and have the speedometer corrected. Should I just stick with the original plan of building my TR3650 and be happy with 7,000 RPMS? (The reason I'm going 5.3 is to reach my power goals of 450 RWHP NA, buecause I've been warned by several members here that I will have to spin a 4.6 too high for my factory transmission to shift, that and my factory ECU will not properly handle A/F ratio at those RPMS.)

I will probably have it built to withstand a 150 shot, so I'm hoping for 550 on the bottle. This being said, I will be making my transmission decision in January, while the transmission is out being built. I will be having a new clutch and flywheel put in. Will a Stage 3 clutch be too much for my factory engine?

[Calogero6685]

So...

[futureMACH1racer]

Go with the T-56...

Sent from my SCH-I510 using AutoGuide App

[Mod Mustang Racing]

To answer the question about the 5.3 ... a typical MMR 5.3 with no other changes will produce 38 more HP and about 41-44 more Ft lbs of torque. Let us know how we can help, we have some great deals at the moment on the 5.3's.

MMR
1-877-MOD-POWR

[na svt]

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 How much heat does a 5.3L kit put out? As in, would it be safe for the street? I'm going to match that with stage 3 ported factory heads and stage 3 cams when the engine goes. If I do basic modifications not like CAI/RAI, full exhaust, MAF, throttle body, etc, will that put a restriction to the rest of my 122,xxx mile engine? I want stuff that I'll swap over after the build, but if it will be harmful, then I can wait. Also, I've been contemplating a T56 (Buy used, have built.) depending on their RPM limit between shifts. Then again, this might be pointless/unnecessary since I'm going NA, that, and I'd have to buy an aftermarket driveshaft (All ready have FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft), and have the speedometer corrected. Should I just stick with the original plan of building my TR3650 and be happy with 7,000 RPMS? (The reason I'm going 5.3 is to reach my power goals of 450 RWHP NA, buecause I've been warned by several members here that I will have to spin a 4.6 too high for my factory transmission to shift, that and my factory ECU will not properly handle A/F ratio at those RPMS.) I will probably have it built to withstand a 150 shot, so I'm hoping for 550 on the bottle. This being said, I will be making my transmission decision in January, while the transmission is out being built. I will be having a new clutch and flywheel put in. Will a Stage 3 clutch be too much for my factory engine?

The stock cooling system will handle the cooling for a 324. To reach 450rwhp n/a you'll need a 5" short runner intake or a Sullivan because the stock intake kills power production at 6300rpm.

Regarding teh trans, stay away from the t56, they suck for n/a combos, especially those that shift above 7000rpm. A well built 3650 will hold up and this has been proven more than once.

Off the shelf, "stg" cams are not the way to go, so get some custom grinds.

Now the problem, some stock computers won't control the ignition (fuel isn't the issue) past 7200rpm and to make 450rwhp with moderate compression the engine will have to exceed that. Your Mach computer has one of those computers that will not work that high up in the RPMs and adding a MOD6 from MSD to handle the ignition chores may be the answer to the problem.

Here's a combo that made 459rwhp n/a and was very streetable:
-10.5:1 CR
-Livernois stg 3 heads
-Sullivan intake
-Accufab TB
-1 3/4" primary, 3.5" collector long tubes
-custom nitrous cams spec'd by me

It made 459 at a very manageable 7250rpm and power was flat all the way to 7500rpm shift point.

Higher compression and n/a cams would have added both peak and mid range power.

[Calogero6685]

Throttle body, intake, exhaust, manifold, and little things like that will be done to the stock engine and just transfer over when the time comes.

How much are Livernois Stage 3 heads? If they're within' the ball park (within $750) for paying to have the factory heads ported, then I think I might just do that instead. Also, if I go with aftermarket heads, then I'm just going to pull the factory engine, and put it on a stand. I have no desire to separate a factory R code engine.
Edit: Just looked up the price. Are they really worth $3,299?

Do they sell high compression 5.3L shortblocks that are a direct replacement for a factory 4.6L DOHC?
Edit: I've been looking at MMR Shortblocks. Are these as well a direct replacement?

If I get the Sullivan intake, I'm assuming I'll need a tune, no? That doesn't seem to be a simple bolt on that many people do. How much and who sells them?

As far as cams, I'm expecting ~$2,000 for customs. Is that accurate? Also, depending on Wether or not the Mach will stay my daily driver, I'm leaning more toward having NA spec cams and having the bottle as extra.

What's a MOD6? What does it do? How much does it cost? How much more complicated will the build be with it?

Yeah, I was leaning towards building the factory transmission. Less complicated, I'm happy/comfortable with the shift pattern, and there's a massive difference between 1st gear in a TR3650 and T56. I can live with the transmission as of now, even with its predictability on not letting me shift at redline, but the clutch isn't what it used to be.

Do I NEED the complexity of the MOD6 to reach my power goals (450) with a 5.3? The whole point to this is that I'm trying to replace high RPMs through a 4.6L with less RPMs and similar power, but less worry through a 5.3. Or am I just worrying too much as it is?

[Calogero6685]

Originally Posted by Mod Mustang Racing To answer the question about the 5.3 ... a typical MMR 5.3 with no other changes will produce 38 more HP and about 41-44 more Ft lbs of torque. Let us know how we can help, we have some great deals at the moment on the 5.3's.

Do you have any aluminum blocks? All I'm seeing is the new factory 2004 Cobra cast iron block, or the upgraded Boss 302 cast iron block for $900 more.

[na svt]

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 How much are Livernois Stage 3 heads? If they're within' the ball park (within $750) for paying to have the factory heads ported, then I think I might just do that instead. Also, if I go with aftermarket heads, then I'm just going to pull the factory engine, and put it on a stand. I have no desire to separate a factory R code engine. Edit: Just looked up the price. Are they really worth $3,299??

You can get ported heads for much less. Also, a facotry "R" code engine is nothign special, it also came in the avaitor and marauder and they are a dime dozen.

Do they sell high compression 5.3L shortblocks that are a direct replacement for a factory 4.6L DOHC?[/QUOTE]

You can get a 324 in any compression ratio you want.

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 If I get the Sullivan intake, I'm assuming I'll need a tune, no? That doesn't seem to be a simple bolt on that many people do. How much and who sells them?

The 324 will need a tune regardless if it has a Sullivan intake or not. Sullivan is going out of business so you'll have to find one used.[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 As far as cams, I'm expecting ~$2,000 for customs. Is that accurate? Also, depending on Wether or not the Mach will stay my daily driver, I'm leaning more toward having NA spec cams and having the bottle as extra.

Custom cams are around $1300

What's a MOD6? What does it do? How much does it cost? How much more complicated will the build be with it?[/QUOTE]


The MOD6 controls the ignition and is needed when trying to use the Mach comupter on high RPM engines.[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 Yeah, I was leaning towards building the factory transmission. Less complicated, I'm happy/comfortable with the shift pattern, and there's a massive difference between 1st gear in a TR3650 and T56. I can live with the transmission as of now, even with its predictability on not letting me shift at redline, but the clutch isn't what it used to be.

The shiuft pattern is going to be the same on any 5 speed trans.

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 Do I NEED the complexity of the MOD6 to reach my power goals (450) with a 5.3?

Yes. Unless the compression is very high you won't make 450rwhp without spinning the engine to at least 7300.

Build an 11:1CR 324 with custom cams, ported stock intake, ported heads and 1 7/8" primary long tube headers. It could easily make 400/400 and have a very broad powerband.

[na svt]

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 Do you have any aluminum blocks? All I'm seeing is the new factory 2004 Cobra cast iron block, or the upgraded Boss 302 cast iron block for $900 more.

I know where you can get a teksid (aluminum) block that can be made into a big bore. Installing the 3/7" sleeves costs around $1200.

[Calogero6685]

400/400 RWHP sounds too mild for me and I can't justify laying down that much money for only that much horsepower. I kinda want to go all out, as in people making no mistakes knowing who I am when I pull up.

What will this give me: 12:1 (If that's too high for 93 octane, then 11.5:1), 5.3L, Stage 3 heads, cams specs by you for NA and have the bottle as extra, NO2 gapped rings, Sullivan intake, Kooks 1 7/8" longtubes/full exhaust, accufab throttle body with matching MAF, C&L intake

That's what, about $12k in parts?

[na svt]

Originally Posted by Calogero6685 400/400 RWHP sounds too mild for me and I can't justify laying down that much money for only that much horsepower. I kinda want to go all out, as in people making no mistakes knowing who I am when I pull up. What will this give me: 12:1 (If that's too high for 93 octane, then 11.5:1), 5.3L, Stage 3 heads, cams specs by you for NA and have the bottle as extra, n2o gapped rings, Sullivan intake, Kooks 1 7/8" longtubes/full exhaust, accufab throttle body with matching MAF, C&L intake That's what, about $12k in parts?

You can build that for less than 12k.

-11.5:1CR (flat tops with 3cc of valve relief and a 52cc combustion chamber)
-Pistons with valve reliefs
-Livernois CNC heads (your heads CNC'd by them are much less expensive)
-.5mm oversize valves (not required)
-GT followers (not required)
-GT exhaust lash adjusters (not required)
-Sullivan intake
-Accufab 1680cfm Oval TB
-90mm or larger MAF
-1 7/8" longtubes

C&L doesn't make a tube to fit the Sullivan.

450rwhp is easily achieved with a Sullivan or 5" short runner and 475rwhp at 7300rpm is very possible with the parts/mods listed above.

You can save some money by going with a 5 or 5.5" short runner. The upper would have to be opened up for the TB and you would need a remove IAC but that would still be less than the Sullivan/TB adapter/fuel rails.