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Old January 23rd, 2012, 07:18 PM   #1
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Not a 4V question....


Sorry to bump this into the 4V forum, but my 98GT is gonna drive me crazy, I just put it all back together after 6 months and when I tried to crank it, the damn theft light just flashes, doesnt even roll over once. Im at a loss...Starter is brand new...any ideas? I posted in the 2v section, but I guess they wanna be douches today and not offer a helping brain lol, thanks guys
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Old January 24th, 2012, 02:58 AM   #2
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Same thing happened on my v6 once or twice. Try disconnecting the positive battery terminal, wait for about 30sec, reconnect. If it's your antitheft bugging up, this should reset it.
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Old January 24th, 2012, 03:54 AM   #3
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sounds like your pats system is messed up. did you do anything to the computer? if not take it to ford and have them re-key it.
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Old January 24th, 2012, 12:01 PM   #4
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^ +1. 98's...the bastard year of the mod motors. You'll have to delete the Pats system.
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Old January 24th, 2012, 12:02 PM   #5
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Pats suck.....
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Old January 24th, 2012, 03:53 PM   #6
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Correct me if im wrong, but does the PATS system usually allow the motor to turn over and then shut off? Mine doesnt even turn over, I turn the key and everything preps(gets electricity) and then nothing...Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate
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Old January 24th, 2012, 04:22 PM   #7
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Okay another update, when I have the door closed and turn the ignition on, theft light disappears and when I try to crank, still does nothing, but there isnt a theft light either, just a check engine light and battery light. Is it possible the positive battery terminal is too old to get enough juice to crank but still gets enough to power the lights and radio and what not? And my bad Stal, I never did anything to the computer...
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Old January 24th, 2012, 11:19 PM   #8
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When you say the theft light flashes does it flash really fast or normal? It's possible that your battery is too old, but if It's flashing really fast it might be your CCRM or a fuse. For me my filter cut the wires killing the power to and from my CCRM and then a fuse blew. Car would not start or crank, but the theft light would flash like crazy since it tripped PATS.
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Old January 25th, 2012, 12:11 AM   #9
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Well I actually pulled the battery out of my Altima, it still had the same effect, and there isnt a theft light any longer, just the CEL and Battery light...I checked all the fuses I could think of and all seem to be okay
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Old January 25th, 2012, 03:29 AM   #10
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you said you just put it back together? check the grounds
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Old January 25th, 2012, 11:35 AM   #11
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Well I didnt get as far as disconnecting the grounds, so I hpe that isnt the issue, but I will double check them
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Old January 25th, 2012, 09:12 PM   #12
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Your filter to your cai is not like a floppy cock intake right? Like the filter isn't resting on the wires below it right?
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Old January 25th, 2012, 10:17 PM   #13
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Lol, I dont know but I will check it out
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Old February 11th, 2012, 01:45 AM   #14
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So I bought a SCT Livewire tuner from AM and received it today after requesting the tunes to have PATS disabled, and I still get nothing...Not even a turn over, funny thing is, and I don't know if this is even relevant but, while the tune was uploading my fan came on finally, but shut off after the tune loaded. When I turn the ignition on all I can hear is something prime and then nothing...Im completely at a stand still here...Is it possible they didnt disable PATS?
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Old February 12th, 2012, 05:55 PM   #15
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It should still turn over even if it was a pats problem but not start.. You using a ford chip key? I'd check your fuses if you haven't already.And go hit that little red button in the trunk.

Thats what i would try.
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Old February 13th, 2012, 11:12 AM   #16
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I checked all the fuses, but I will try pushing the fuel cutoff button in the trunk again, thanks man
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Old February 14th, 2012, 09:38 AM   #17
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take it to a dealer and let them pull codes on it. Possibly cut you a new key and FOB
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Old February 19th, 2012, 12:30 PM   #18
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You said you just put it together after about 6 months, did you make sure the pats module in the trunk is connected (left side, mounted behind a plastic panel, connectors 403 & 404)? If it's not cranking at all, that could be it since the starter wire connects through it. It shouldn't be your inertia switch because that just disables your fuel pump.
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Old February 19th, 2012, 04:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by RockRacing View Post
You said you just put it together after about 6 months, did you make sure the pats module in the trunk is connected (left side, mounted behind a plastic panel, connectors 403 & 404)? If it's not cranking at all, that could be it since the starter wire connects through it. It shouldn't be your inertia switch because that just disables your fuel pump.
Damn, I didnt even know that was PATS related back there, since I didnt unplug it, could it have done some kind of damage? I ran my livewire on the car and its throwing codes P1000, also just a dumbass question, when I switch the key from off to on right before cranking, should I get full oil pressure? My oil pressure gauge bumps up ever so slightly but stays in the red zone
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Old February 19th, 2012, 05:37 PM   #20
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The P1000 just means that the PCM hasn't completed all its checks and will go away after it runs for a bit. I doubt the module got damaged from not unplugging it, but I would also check the harness running back to it for damage. Also, the oil pressure gauge sounds like it's working right. It's actually just an on/off switch if I remember correctly. I'll get back to my home PC and will post a diagram of the starting system a little later.

My recommendation; get a cool push button starter and run the wire straight from the switch to the starter relay in the engine compartment fuse box.

The trip that the factory starter wire takes through the car is truly mind boggling...

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