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Old February 3rd, 2012, 09:26 AM   #21
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yeah i say LCA's as well. and get 4.10's man. I have them, i love em. Little much with the Kenne Bell, but w/e. I drive mostly city with some highway and still get 21-22 MPG usually. And im not babying it either. not in it all the time, but im sure you know what i mean. really almost no matter what suspension you get or tire really, 1st will be useless on the street. Hell some tracks even have trouble holding cars if they aren't prepped right.
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Old February 3rd, 2012, 10:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by swervo View Post
The smurfmobile is getting side splitter, GT500 rear valence, matte black roof wrap and a dyno tune. Then in a few months, it'll be put in storage for 2 years .
Dude, why the storage?

And why the hell is there not a youtube vid of the 5.0? lol
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Old February 4th, 2012, 04:18 PM   #23
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The absolute best mod for a stock geared Mach is 96-98 Cobra cams installed at a lobe center of 108. They will add 20rwhp and an assload of tq.

TB and MAF will add about 5rw and cost much more than the cams.
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Old February 5th, 2012, 09:48 AM   #24
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Yea ive thought about cams, ive seen a NA mach 1 with cams, intake, full exhaust, tune, 4.10s and DRs run a 12.19. Its my DD so ill have to use some vacation days if im gonna swap out the cams. And i would wanna compare the 98 cobra cams vs the cost on newer cams and how much lift i could fit in those heads lol. But thats not a bad idea.
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Old February 5th, 2012, 10:58 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by ModdedMach View Post
Yea ive thought about cams, ive seen a NA mach 1 with cams, intake, full exhaust, tune, 4.10s and DRs run a 12.19. Its my DD so ill have to use some vacation days if im gonna swap out the cams. And i would wanna compare the 98 cobra cams vs the cost on newer cams and how much lift i could fit in those heads lol. But thats not a bad idea.
Machs can run low 12s without cams. The cobra intake cams cost about $175 shipped and will provide a 20rwhp gain and reduce ETs by two tenths. Aftermarket cams are over $1k.
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Old February 10th, 2012, 01:05 AM   #26
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True true, to be honest, im probably not going to do much more to this car performance wise to this car i dont think, im gonna do LCAs, FLSFCs, and some cosmetic stuff, smoked tails, headlights, dif wheels, better tires, exterior paint polish work.

I say i wont but im really tempted to pull a swervo and slap on a TT kit with a safe tune to put me around 450-480whp. But ill still probably wish i had just go an 03 cobra and spend the same 6 grand on a termi and make 650 lol....hmmm
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Old February 10th, 2012, 10:13 AM   #27
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Kenne Bell
And I love my Mach, definitly dont wish I had a Cobra. looks better, SRA, and a 4v.
What else could you ask for? Id take the Mach appereance over factory forged anyday.
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Old February 10th, 2012, 11:57 AM   #28
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Just thought I would join in late, I had black 03 Mach and it was my DD driver, sold it with 96K miles. Dynotuned by Tim at MPH (312/329), I had your mods plus, shifter, 4:30 gears, strange axles, LCA, and Eaton diff. I got 22-23 MPG (combined mileage, without much expressway). Went to the drag strip about 5 times a year, ran 8.0-8.1 all the time. I think it would have ran quicker but being in my late forties and running 4:30's I can't shift as fast as I use to! It was a fun car to drive!!! Enjoy the Mach!
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Old February 11th, 2012, 02:05 AM   #29
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I have a steeda triax and spec stg 1 clutch and im planning on lower control arms. Im not worried about the mileage so much, i just dont know about the 2700 cruising rpm...idk, im just not sure if its gonna be that much of a difference in acceleration.

Is it really gonna give me that much of an edge, my car (not me) lol should be in the 12.8 range, are 4:10s gonna liven my car up that much that its worth it?
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Old February 11th, 2012, 12:15 PM   #30
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wtf speed are you cruising at? At 60mph with 4:10s im right below 2k rpm. like 1975.
And with the blower and 4:10s i still knock down 20-22 MPG when i drive it regularly. Less on track nights, etc..
4:10's will definitly be a kick in the pants over the stock 3:55's. Definitly worth it and on of the first mods anyone should do to a mustang.
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Old February 12th, 2012, 02:10 AM   #31
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i was talking about 80mph, which in my car now is like....2250ish. And again...idc about mileage or i would have bought a honda lol. I dont cruise at 60 lol
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Old February 12th, 2012, 08:57 AM   #32
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o, lol. 60 is the norm for me, never really get over it. speed limit here is 55mph mostly. 65 on freeways, but thats no where near me.
I live in the fuckin sticks, lol.
At 80 you should be at 2628 RPM, by my calculations. Not horrible, and how much are you cruising at 80? everytime you drive it? or once in a while?
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Old February 12th, 2012, 10:59 AM   #33
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I'm on the interstate a lot, my thing is, as far as street/track, is this going to really make my car actually faster, noticabley. If it is, then tell me the best place to get them, I live 20 minutes from a summit racing

Im not against them at all, its just, for the dollars, am i going to get in my car and the first time i scream through 2nd and 3rd be genuinely surprised at the difference. Im really considering doin it cause my car pulls fuckin HARD in second and 4.10s should make all the gears pep up.

I already have a SCT tuner, so really all i need is the gears, grease and install kit. Is this a project a first timer should do? (id have my brother help me hes had a ton of mustangs, mostly foxes). Id replace the bearings as well as i am at 64k miles

Another question, my car has been Dyno Tuned, can i change a parameter like the gear ration without effecting the performance tune thats already installed in my car?

Thanks, good job at convincing me btw guys...lol
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Old February 12th, 2012, 11:18 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by ModdedMach View Post
I have a steeda triax and spec stg 1 clutch and im planning on lower control arms. Im not worried about the mileage so much, i just dont know about the 2700 cruising rpm...idk, im just not sure if its gonna be that much of a difference in acceleration.

Is it really gonna give me that much of an edge, my car (not me) lol should be in the 12.8 range, are 4:10s gonna liven my car up that much that its worth it?
4.10s make a huge difference. You can change the ratio (not ration) with your hand held.
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Old February 12th, 2012, 11:32 AM   #35
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haha ration, i have a daily dose of gear grease to my diet...

When i change the ratio with the tuner will it effect my dyno tune?

Or can i adjust specific parameters without changing everything else?
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Old February 12th, 2012, 07:27 PM   #36
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Yes you can change teh gear ratio to correct your speedo, and it wont change anything else.

Yes it is a noticable difference. Well worth the money.
You will need gears, and an 8.8 master install kit. Make sure it comes with a crush sleeve and all. NO I WOULD NOT try to do it yourself. If you get it all back together, and the backlash or shims are off, its goin to whine going down the road. And if you drive it to long like that it will put a wear pattern in the gears and even if you get it fixed it may still make alot of noise.
Seeing as you still have stock gears, you should just be able to re-use the stock shims and backlash isn't to hard. You will need a dial indicator and a couple other not-so-common tools.
imo, take it to a shop. Will take them a few hours at most and you know its right. If its not, it will let you know as soon as you get to speed.
After the install i would advise not being to hard on the gears until you drive it for 50-60 miles.
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Old February 12th, 2012, 07:30 PM   #37
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Heres a link to a gear install for an 8.8 guide. If you want to brave it.
So you want to install your own gears: A 'how to' 8.8 gear install - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®
And you can get the gears and kit from summit no problem. Just make sure to get FRPP gears.
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Old February 13th, 2012, 12:51 AM   #38
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What FFRP, just curious.

And ok ill take it to the shop, Hopefully it wont cost that much.

How much should i expect to spend in all? the gears seem pretty cheap.

Ive heard break in time is 500 miles, Is it more like 50?

EDIT: FFRP, right, of course, thats what i was lookin at anyways, lol. so nvm the first question ^^
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Old February 13th, 2012, 08:35 AM   #39
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All the guys i know locally say 2 good "heat cycles" for break in, drive it, let it cools, drive it. then your good. Thats what i've always done and been good for me.
Labor depends on the shop and area. Around me I got min done for $450 total. Gears, install kit and labor.
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Old February 13th, 2012, 12:17 PM   #40
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sounds about right, 450 should do it.

Thats perfect, my drive to work is about 30 miles, all hwy, thatll heat it up, go to work, drive it home. Done haha.

Ill probably buy the gears and install kit with bearings from American Muscle, i think its about 250 for all.
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