Nitro, Dyno Tune or Shifter CAI & 2.76 Pulley?
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Old January 18th, 2008, 05:57 PM   #1
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Nitro, Dyno Tune or Shifter CAI & 2.76 Pulley?


They All have their Pro's and cons....
And they Will Cost close to the Same.....

What Do You guys think?
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Old January 18th, 2008, 05:59 PM   #2
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Nitrous and a solid axle swap!

I love to see power adders working together in perfect harmony... Reminds me of when undercover brother and white she devil sang Ebony and Ivory....
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:00 PM   #3
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Ha!
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:01 PM   #4
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well you already have a pulley, your not going to gain much, maybe 10-15HP going to a 2.76.

better question is, how much $$ do you have to spend.

i can tell you what you NEED to get on the car is a IRS brace, and a CAI, and you will have full bolt ons.

i say start with buying a JLT RAI, and a Billetflow IRS brace, and re evaluate yoru funds.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:02 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 03 R Code View Post
Nitrous and a solid axle swap!

I love to see power adders working together in perfect harmony... Reminds me of when undercover brother and white she devil sang Ebony and Ivory....
at this point he wouldnt benefit from a solid swap really, he already has stiffer springs than the soft convertible springs that cause even worse hop that the IRS already has, and its a vert, so its not like its a featherweight.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:14 PM   #6
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It really depends on what he wants to do with his ride. If he looks to make a straight line car out of it then a solid swap would absolutely benefit him!
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:14 PM   #7
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Well the nitro is really an after thought.

I'm torn Between the dynotune or getting the Shifter and A better CAI......

The Dyno is $631....
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:16 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 03 R Code View Post
It really depends on what he wants to do with his ride. If he looks to make a straight line car out of it then a solid swap would absolutely benefit him!
how would a solid swap benefit him at this point? he's making maybe 450RWHP in a heavy vert, he will spend atleast $2500 building a solid for it.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:16 PM   #9
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I would wait until I was done with all of the small bolt ons that you are going to get before the dyno tune. Time spent on a dyno at almost any shop is expensive, and the tune will be able to pull all of your aftermarket mods together and get the most out of them combined.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:18 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Smoothgrandmama View Post
Well the nitro is really an after thought.

I'm torn Between the dynotune or getting the Shifter and A better CAI......

The Dyno is $631....
CAI, and brace, theres no point in having all that power if your going to break something, or not letting the engine breath right.

what kind of a tune is it? do you have a tuner.

a dyno tune is almost pointless until you have atleast a ported blower. there is much better mods the dyno tune price could use.

how much $$ do you have to spend? 300? 500? 1000? 2000?
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:18 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by KingChronic View Post
how would a solid swap benefit him at this point? he's making maybe 450RWHP in a heavy vert, he will spend atleast $2500 building a solid for it.


Like I said, if he wants a great straight line car, then a solid axle is by far the better way to go. I wasn't saying it would be the cheapest mod, or even one that he wants to undertake right now. This was a "just if" from my perspective, I like drag racing, so I assume that everyone else does to! Even though that's not always the case.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:22 PM   #12
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I'm looking @ around $500
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:23 PM   #13
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How about shifter CAI and drag radials?
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:23 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 03 R Code View Post
Like I said, if he wants a great straight line car, then a solid axle is by far the better way to go. I wasn't saying it would be the cheapest mod, or even one that he wants to undertake right now. This was a "just if" from my perspective, I like drag racing, so I assume that everyone else does to! Even though that's not always the case.
people have gone very fast on the IRS, its pretty simple to launch with, and rides alot better than a solid will. the only time people typically ditch the IRS is when they're trying to loose the additional 150LBS the IRS adds over a built solid, or when they're gone as far as they can with the IRS. the 100% stock IRS + a IRS brace is good for 550RWHP, after that the halfshafts begin to become a issue if your launching hard at the track. at that point halfshafts are needed, and instead of spending teh $1500 for a set of halfshafts, most people put it into a solid, and lose the 150LBS.

he could have 650+ HP from a big twin screw, and the IRS + brace will be fine. jsut have to use tall sidewall slicks att he track, and not launch too hard. msot broken halfshaft cases wouldnt occur if people simply didnt use street tires for the track, and threw some 15" slicks on.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:25 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Smoothgrandmama View Post
I'm looking @ around $500
how mechanically inclined are you.

you NEED a IRS brace, its pretty mcuh bottom line, if you dont, then your going to spend over $1000 fixing your block pumpkin.

$150 IRS brace
$150 JLT RAI
$180 MGW shifter
____
$480

the intake, and shifter install with a very simple tool kit. the IRS brace is a little harder, but not too bad.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:26 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by KingChronic View Post
people have gone very fast on the IRS, its pretty simple to launch with, and rides alot better than a solid will. the only time people typically ditch the IRS is when they're trying to loose the additional 150LBS the IRS adds over a built solid, or when they're gone as far as they can with the IRS. the 100% stock IRS + a IRS brace is good for 550RWHP, after that the halfshafts begin to become a issue if your launching hard at the track. at that point halfshafts are needed, and instead of spending teh $1500 for a set of halfshafts, most people put it into a solid, and lose the 150LBS.

he could have 650+ HP from a big twin screw, and the IRS + brace will be fine. jsut have to use tall sidewall slicks att he track, and not launch too hard. msot broken halfshaft cases wouldnt occur if people simply didnt use street tires for the track, and threw some 15" slicks on.
Well that's good to know. I was thinking that most broken half shafts came from people with slicks that load the side walls a lot and then when they "unload" that's when the tire hop starts, and that plus the traction from the slicks would cause the breakage.... But that was just how it works in my head. Thanks for the learnins!
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Old January 18th, 2008, 06:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 03 R Code View Post
Well that's good to know. I was thinking that most broken half shafts came from people with slicks that load the side walls a lot and then when they "unload" that's when the tire hop starts, and that plus the traction from the slicks would cause the breakage.... But that was just how it works in my head. Thanks for the learnins!
no, probably 75% of halfshafts breakages are mostly because people try to launch as a track with a sticky tire, and not enough sidewall to flex, then they end up hopping it slightly too, and it goes.

people have gone mid 10's on stock halfshafts. plus you can pick up a spare halfshaft for about $125, and it is pretty simple to change in about 30 mins.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 08:09 PM   #18
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I never knew that halfshafts were so expensive
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Old January 18th, 2008, 08:19 PM   #19
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stock ones arent real expensive, but DSS elevel 5's are $1500 for the basic level 5's, $2000 for the chromoly ones like i have. and the level 2's arent even worth screwing with.
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Old January 18th, 2008, 08:54 PM   #20
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Were Can I buy the Brace?
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