[ReverendDexter]

So, what's the most one can safely spin a b-port motor car without having to resort to NASA-size budgets and unobtanium parts? Is it realistic to build one of these motors to spin to 8500rpm with just a "normal" forged bottom end? Not talking about power *at all* here.

For those wanting a "why" before they'll just answer the fking question a high-rpm motor allows one to not have to shift as often in a roadrace/cornering situation. You can stretch the motor out a few more rpm in the straight without having to upshift and then immediately downshift.

And don't tell me it's not doable with a V8 - Indy/Champ/Formula 1 motors are 8 and 10 cylinders and turning 17k+ rpms.

[acmillr]

Realistically, I would say about 7500 rpm's (on a consistent basis) without buying a set of $4000 lifters and followers.

[acidtonic]

Well the goal is to be as light as possible first, and then make anywhere from 450rwhp to 950rwhp. Budget will be roughly 2-3K every 2 months. I really want to build for handling and not just power. I think people underestimate the 96-98 cobra in the handling department.

I really enjoy courses and winding roads with lots of grade changes and various corners. I want something to really have fun more than break any records or be competitive. Its all about fun and I dont mind some trial and error until it feels right.

I do however want to be fast enough to win some red light challenges without appearing too fast from a distance. I thought about exhaust cutouts with the driver controls to limit sound when I just want to cruise and not draw attention. These looked interesting (Exhaust: Exhaust Cutouts Electric Aluminum Bolt-On, 3 in. Diameter, Pair) but I have my concerns whether its safe or not. I'm really not sure, what do you guys think?

Aftermarket traction control via Motec or something else might be another thing to dabble with.

Anyway battery is going dead so I have to make it quick. Night.

[futureMACH1racer]

Big horsepower, is really needed for the twisties. Do you know how hard it is to keep that kind of power planted to the ground? Before you think about the engine I suggest that you start from the bottom up.

You're going to need some serious brakes for that kind of power, to be safe. It'll probably cost you $2-3k just for the front brake setup. I suggest some 14" Carbon Fiber Rotors, while they're ultra exspensive, you're talking about alot of power. A car with inadequate brakes is just as dangerous as a loaded gun.

Suspension is going to cost you $4-5k to do it right. Remember for that kind of power everything is going to have beefed up, that is alot stress to put on that chassis.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by futureMACH1racer Big horsepower, is really needed for the twisties.

Wha-huh?

I'm a little confused by the comma in there, but without it I can only totally and utterly disagree with your statement. Power is the LAST thing you need in the twisties if you have the suspension to keep your speed through the corners!

I'll leave it at that until I get clarification on your statement, though

[acidtonic]

He is right to some extent and I can at least see where he is coming from. With less nimble cars you have to slow down so much around turns that you would need some good power to get back up to speed.

With just heavy weight reduction and battery relocation the car was rocking. I finally put my dash back in last night after clearing out more sound deadening. It once again feels even lighter. That weight up front really hits home. I pulled over 50lbs from the rear once and it didnt feel nearly as good as 15lbs up front.

I plan to go even further and relocate/lower some of the heavier parts up there to add more to the handling department. Thinking about an electric light weight fan and electric water pump to free up some power and weight.

Anyone ever heard of someone putting real time adjustable suspension parts in these cars? I'd like something where I have a dial to control stiffness from inside while driving. I know of AirRide but is that really a performance setup? I dont know much about it other than its adjustable but I think its just height and not stiffness.

Still thinking about the griggs torque arms and watts link setup or a built and heavily reinforced IRS. The griggs car sure handles amazingly with that solid rear so its a tough call.

Cheers

[futureMACH1racer]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Wha-huh? I'm a little confused by the comma in there, but without it I can only totally and utterly disagree with your statement. Power is the LAST thing you need in the twisties if you have the suspension to keep your speed through the corners! I'll leave it at that until I get clarification on your statement, though

I meant Big horsepower isn't needed for the twisties. Sorry guys, I was awfully tired when I posted it.

[oc192]

You may want to take inventory of how many cars in your area that are fast. Build your car toward the cars you want to beat or keep up with.

Here in California their are a lot of fast cars. The Cobra's have a bull eye's on them because of the importants. What's cool with the Mach's they always mistake it for being a GT. They noticed the car color is unique or the hood scoop. More importantly they don't notice the engine tone changes after 4000 rpms. Everyone who has a Mach I know's exactly what I'm talking about. I love it because by the time realize they made a mistake I'm taking their money.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by acidtonic With just heavy weight reduction and battery relocation the car was rocking. I finally put my dash back in last night after clearing out more sound deadening. It once again feels even lighter. That weight up front really hits home. I pulled over 50lbs from the rear once and it didnt feel nearly as good as 15lbs up front.

Well, yeah, this makes sense considering the Mustang is inherently a front-heavy car. Pulling weight out of the back is only going to make it more out-of-balance.

Originally Posted by acidtonic I plan to go even further and relocate/lower some of the heavier parts up there to add more to the handling department. Thinking about an electric light weight fan and electric water pump to free up some power and weight.

You should already have an electric fan (mine does), and I don't know that an electric water pump would be any lighter than the mechanical one. Would definitely free up some parasitic drag, though!

Originally Posted by acidtonic Anyone ever heard of someone putting real time adjustable suspension parts in these cars? I'd like something where I have a dial to control stiffness from inside while driving. I know of AirRide but is that really a performance setup? I dont know much about it other than its adjustable but I think its just height and not stiffness.

Dispell this thought from your head. Adjustable means heavy and complicated, and anything that's not super-super expensive is going to be crap. Just for good adjustable shocks you're talking at LEAST $500 per corner. And don't give me that adjustable Koni crap. Put those things on a shock dyno and you'll see what I mean. They're incredibly inconsistent between settings, and settings are inconsistent between individual shocks. If you don't step up something like an Ohlin, you're wasting your money. The flipside of this is that once your suspension is properly set up, you shouldn't have to adjust it again.

Originally Posted by acidtonic Still thinking about the griggs torque arms and watts link setup or a built and heavily reinforced IRS. The griggs car sure handles amazingly with that solid rear so its a tough call.

The aftermarket setups that still use the live axle are no-compromise designs. The Cobra IRS was designed to fit in the place of the live axle, and was compromised for packaging. IRS in general is better, but given the option, I'd go with one of the reputable dealer's packages (Griggs is a good choice). The kit I'm currently looking at is from Evolution motorsports. It's a tri-link/watts-link setup: not as good as a torque arm for acceleration, but better under braking. Being that I'm not an acceleration guy, I'll take the braking advantage. (link: Watts/TriLink/LCA - $1,375.00 : Evolution Motorsport, A Mustang Performance Company)