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Old August 27th, 2008, 12:30 AM   #41
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i know a guy who just put on a t-trim, and messed up a head so he had the motor rebuilt... i think he's looking at 4k total after forged rods and low compression pistons... you will spend WAY more getting 400 hp out of a n/a motor, and he's gonna be closer to 500 when it's all said and done and maybe another 500 into it... in short, do NOT buy udps... broken oil pump theory or not, they'll have to come off for the s/c kit... cai is a waste too... take the money from those two mods and put it towards a good tb, it will do nothing right now, but once you s/c it will help... also long tubes and or/x or or/h will help a lot too
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Old August 27th, 2008, 08:48 AM   #42
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yeah but i'm not sure if i will ever sc it
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Old August 27th, 2008, 09:11 AM   #43
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Buy the TB if and when you get a S/C kit. I really don't think the UDPs are worth the money. There are plenty more mods you can do. Save up and get long tubes and a shorty midpipe or gears (+install).
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Old August 27th, 2008, 10:44 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by armymike63b View Post
yeah but i'm not sure if i will ever sc it
Well if you want power its your best route, From what Ive read guys are claimin an increase in MPG with normal driving. And if you go the centri way your only in boost when you get on it.
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Old August 27th, 2008, 11:42 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy View Post
And if you go the centri way your only in boost when you get on it.

its the same way with roots and twinscrew blown cars. im not sure about turbo cars.
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Old August 27th, 2008, 11:51 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by WilltheThrill View Post
its the same way with roots and twinscrew blown cars. im not sure about turbo cars.
I thought roots and twin screw produce boost all the time?
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Old August 27th, 2008, 12:05 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy View Post
I thought roots and twin screw produce boost all the time?

according to the boost gauges, they dont.
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Old August 27th, 2008, 12:08 PM   #48
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so what long tubes and midpipe
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Old August 27th, 2008, 01:03 PM   #49
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Roots/Twin Screw make power throughout the RPM band that's just how they work. Centris have a powerband much like a turbo except that they are belt driven so they only make substantial power above say 3000-3500.

As for long tubes and a midpipe that is up to you. Make sure that when you are looking for them that you look for the following things:

1. LTs built for a 4v motor.
2. Make sure that the midpipe you buy is a SHORTY midpipe. The stock midpipe or the aftermarket midpipe you bought for the stock headers will be too long and won't fit with long tubes.
3. Shorty midpipe options: X/H/Prochamber

If you buy a certain long tube header you are probably better off buying the same manufacturer's midpipe. Lethal Performance has a good selection of long tubes and midpipes for Mach 1s.
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Old August 27th, 2008, 06:06 PM   #50
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You will have to at least do everthing from the heads up,have a great cam selection, manifold work or aftermarket manifold, ALL the bolt ons and a great tune. That might give you close to 400 N/A. I am doing a fully built and balanced motor, head work, cams, all the bolt ons and a good tune to get 400 N/A. Its not easy man. You can not do it N/A without at the very least doing everything from the heads up
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Old August 27th, 2008, 07:05 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by WilltheThrill View Post
its the same way with roots and twinscrew blown cars. im not sure about turbo cars.
Correct. Same for turbo cars. Any boosted car is not always in boost untill you give it enough gas input to create the boost.
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Old August 29th, 2008, 11:09 PM   #52
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I have had Steedas on my Mach for 2yrs no problems.
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Old August 30th, 2008, 08:16 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Doc8224 View Post
You will have to at least do everthing from the heads up,have a great cam selection, manifold work or aftermarket manifold, ALL the bolt ons and a great tune. That might give you close to 400 N/A. I am doing a fully built and balanced motor, head work, cams, all the bolt ons and a good tune to get 400 N/A. Its not easy man. You can not do it N/A without at the very least doing everything from the heads up
+8457080342, I spent a couple thousand (saved some doing my own build with the help of my ford tech buddy) with supporting mod, and a good tune and I am just shy of that mark before I threw in the 150 shot. Like DOC said it is hard and very, very, very expensive, BUT not impossible. Also, cheapest way to get to that mark is with NOS. I did it and, with a little hesitance, but man oh man do I love it. If you get it you can talk to DOC and he can help you through the install if you need help, he helped me with mine. Preciate it DOC, dont know if I already said that before.
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Old August 30th, 2008, 12:18 PM   #54
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I would do full bolton's, aluminum driveshaft, and some big gears.... Guy's on Mach1registry are running mid 11's wth bolt on mach1's because they put big gears, tires, and slight suspension work.

Your MPG will go down on the highway with big gears but increase in the city because it makes it easier for the engine to get moving
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Old August 30th, 2008, 02:25 PM   #55
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[QUOTE=Reloaded;1388622]Correct. Same for turbo cars. Any boosted car is not always in boost untill you give it enough gas input and a load is put on the engine. QUOTE]

fix't
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Originally Posted by '97'Cobra View Post
I was too drunk even tell which hole i was gettin after.
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Old August 30th, 2008, 03:39 PM   #56
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Still thinking about nos, its relatively inexpensive and if done right will be just fine on the stock motor.
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Old October 1st, 2008, 05:44 PM   #57
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if you want to spend less money nd more HP UDP are not the way to go. you get maybe 5 Hp for like 150$. save up for a blower.. just my .02
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Old October 1st, 2008, 11:27 PM   #58
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futuremachracer. alot of shit happened to my engine a week after i put UDP's in my babys still in the shop because of it getting intake valves machined down.
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Old October 2nd, 2008, 03:04 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by 99svtcobra66 View Post
futuremachracer. alot of shit happened to my engine a week after i put UDP's in my babys still in the shop because of it getting intake valves machined down.
Oil pump failure i suppose? You rev it alot don't you.
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Old October 2nd, 2008, 05:33 PM   #60
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With full botons and 175 shot I put down almost 500 at the tire. I've run in the low low 11's in the 1/4 mi. Then again I have a big gear, slicks, and moderate suspension work.
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