[futureMACH1racer]

I hope that he would get some Fox Lake Ported Heads, and some MPH Blower cams, as I have been referred by numerous people as they are the best for the money.

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by Doc8224 As far as you original question, no a turbo specific grind will not hurt an eaton powered car. As for S/C'd 8 sec cars they are all over the place, not on an eaton mind you, but you don't have to go turbo to get 8's. Also a built 4r70w will handle the power if its built by the right person but you will be better off with a built c-4 c-6, or a built AOD. I wouldn't do a power glide unless its a strip only car but FM1R is right it is about the best for a car that runs those times, especialy a turbo car. You said you where doing heads and cams before you dropped it in? What heads are you planning on putting on it?

i kno it would take more than the eaton. it would have to be a whipple or a kenne bell. i may not go turbo if the s/c can get me there. u can have a 4r70w w aod gears, would this be better? yes it will be street to strip but only street for certain occasions or just cause im bored and wana take it to work/school. fM1r got the heads rite

Originally Posted by futureMACH1racer I hope that he would get some Fox Lake Ported Heads, and some MPH Blower cams, as I have been referred by numerous people as they are the best for the money.

i like fox lakes and most likely id have MPH do the cams because all i hear is good things from them.

[Doc8224]

If you are having cams custom ground and heads custom ported, then just decide what power adder you are gonna go with and they will make the heads and cams to work with that combo. If you go centri blower or turbo, a good intake manifold will come into play as well. I would check out sulivan for that, they have some realy nice stuff. If you aren't gonna drive it much on the street then stick with the c-4 or c-6, don't go with an overdrive or electronic overdrive tranny. it's just not something you need or realy want for a drag setup. Just get the tranny built realy well (like Art carr) get a trans brake and a good stall.

[Mustang RacR94]

wow an 8 sec street car, thats pretty damn badass man, be careful with it, a guy by me built a 600+ horse camaro, and the first time he took it out, all was going well from what I heard, he got on it, tires span in 3rd or 4th and he wrecked the damn thing the first time he had it out.

but its gonna be a badass car

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by Doc8224 If you are having cams custom ground and heads custom ported, then just decide what power adder you are gonna go with and they will make the heads and cams to work with that combo. If you go centri blower or turbo, a good intake manifold will come into play as well. I would check out sulivan for that, they have some realy nice stuff. If you aren't gonna drive it much on the street then stick with the c-4 or c-6, don't go with an overdrive or electronic overdrive tranny. it's just not something you need or realy want for a drag setup. Just get the tranny built realy well (like Art carr) get a trans brake and a good stall.

can i get the power i want out of a roots style blower?

[zinc02GT]

Originally Posted by adrenaline=lifeline can i get the power i want out of a roots style blower?

Top fuel dragsters use roots blowers...

I'm sure with a little bit of looking around you can find a roots for any amount of power...

[HMUSN]

I'd use a twin screw. Roots are nowhere as near efficient as a twin screw.

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by HMUSN I'd use a twin screw. Roots are nowhere as near efficient as a twin screw.

thats wat meant. 3.4 whipple be enough? or will the 2.8 kenne bell do it? i like the kenne bell better but ill take power over preferance

[Doc8224]

If you are planning an 8 sec car I would get the big boy whipple. It will be easier with a big centri blower but if you wanna do it with a twin screw then thats what I would do. You need to head stud the motor when you do heads and cams or you could be spitting out head gaskets with all that boost, also do the cooling mod to the motor before you drop it in, If it was me I would put a windage tray in,a bigger/better oil pan, and a race oil pump to ensure the oiling system was up for the task.

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by Doc8224 If you are planning an 8 sec car I would get the big boy whipple. It will be easier with a big centri blower but if you wanna do it with a twin screw then thats what I would do. You need to head stud the motor when you do heads and cams or you could be spitting out head gaskets with all that boost, also do the cooling mod to the motor before you drop it in, If it was me I would put a windage tray in,a bigger/better oil pan, and a race oil pump to ensure the oiling system was up for the task.

arp are still the best correct? and wats cooling system mod?
and i wasnt goin to go w the stock oil pump, but also havent found a oil pump or fuel system i like yet. i may do a custom fuel tank where the spare is in trunk. wat oil pump/system do u guys recommend. btw anything we discuss is saved in files so i only have to ask once.

[Doc8224]

Originally Posted by adrenaline=lifeline arp are still the best correct? and wats cooling system mod? and i wasnt goin to go w the stock oil pump, but also havent found a oil pump or fuel system i like yet. i may do a custom fuel tank where the spare is in trunk. wat oil pump/system do u guys recommend. btw anything we discuss is saved in files so i only have to ask once.

Yea get ARP head studs. The cooling mod is the head cooling mod for the 4v heads, its the LDC chicago head cooling mod. Its easy to install it gives better cooling for the heads. Definitly a must for boosted 4v's. You have a few options for oil pumps depending on how bad ass you wanna get. For street strip the meling or MMR hurricane will be good. However MMR has a remote mount oil pump that is used on their race cars but it is designed to be used with their roller thrust bearing setup so if you aren't pulling the motor apart then that one is out the window. The hurricane or meling is what I would do in your shoes, just make sure whatever pump you go with that it has billet gears. Fuel systems are realy a matter of preference and money. You have to decide if you want to go return style or not. Depending on your power levels to get the 8 sec mark, you may not have a choice but to realy dive into the fuel system. But you can make a shit load of power with a twin pump returnless setup so don't think you can't go that route. I would reccomend at least modifying the tank with baffles to help keep the fuel at the pump during launch.

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by Doc8224 Yea get ARP head studs. The cooling mod is the head cooling mod for the 4v heads, its the LDC chicago head cooling mod. Its easy to install it gives better cooling for the heads. Definitly a must for boosted 4v's. You have a few options for oil pumps depending on how bad ass you wanna get. For street strip the meling or MMR hurricane will be good. However MMR has a remote mount oil pump that is used on their race cars but it is designed to be used with their roller thrust bearing setup so if you aren't pulling the motor apart then that one is out the window. The hurricane or meling is what I would do in your shoes, just make sure whatever pump you go with that it has billet gears. Fuel systems are realy a matter of preference and money. You have to decide if you want to go return style or not. Depending on your power levels to get the 8 sec mark, you may not have a choice but to realy dive into the fuel system. But you can make a shit load of power with a twin pump returnless setup so don't think you can't go that route. I would reccomend at least modifying the tank with baffles to help keep the fuel at the pump during launch.

i want to do a return style system. like i said earlier im lookin into a custom tank cause god forbid i need mini tubes. i probly will do a lil motor work adressing wat u guys said were the motors week points, piston heads and rod bolts but ive got someone to hire for that because i kno hes good. ill look into meling system. also electric water pump or just up grade belt driven?

[futureMACH1racer]

Your going to want to build your shotblock right too. Billet I beam rods, Forged coated pistons, billet oil pump, titanium valvetrain pieces, custom cams, ported heads a massaged intake, splayed billet main caps, windage tray, pan, 1.75" headers, Stainless Steel rings, You're going to end up spending about 10k on the motor its self. Then figure another another 10k for the blower, heat exchanger, fuel system, and radiator. Then you have the trans, converter, the chassis bracing, the rest of the drietrain mods. Slicks, suspension. Son you have about 30k to invest to do it right the first time.

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by futureMACH1racer Your going to want to build your shotblock right too. Billet I beam rods, Forged coated pistons, billet oil pump, titanium valvetrain pieces, custom cams, ported heads a massaged intake, splayed billet main caps, windage tray, pan, 1.75" headers, Stainless Steel rings, You're going to end up spending about 10k on the motor its self. Then figure another another 10k for the blower, heat exchanger, fuel system, and radiator. Then you have the trans, converter, the chassis bracing, the rest of the drietrain mods. Slicks, suspension. Son you have about 30k to invest to do it right the first time.

thats wat i said b4 but i think i can get away w stock rods in the cobra motor. but also ima run 3.4 whipple so a lil less since its the manifold itself

[acidtonic]

Originally Posted by adrenaline=lifeline thats wat i said b4 but i think i can get away w stock rods in the cobra motor. but also ima run 3.4 whipple so a lil less since its the manifold itself

Hes trying to basically help you understand you will go broke.

You will need something you didnt have or think you needed. Something wont fit quite right, etc.

rinse, wash, repeat.

[futureMACH1racer]

If you're going to tear into the motor do it right. Get billet rods, IDK how much power you plan on making, I have an idea of what it takes to get what you want to accomplish. If you leave the stock internals in there then you will end up building this motor twice.

I'm just trying to help, I learned the hard way.

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by futureMACH1racer If you're going to tear into the motor do it right. Get billet rods, IDK how much power you plan on making, I have an idea of what it takes to get what you want to accomplish. If you leave the stock internals in there then you will end up building this motor twice. I'm just trying to help, I learned the hard way.

now that i see ur prospective yea, ur right....

the crank is still goin to be same even if i went aftermarket rite?

[futureMACH1racer]

No, you'll be getting stronger parts. Trust me, the internals are the last place that you want to be cheap with.

[jumperjack]

Originally Posted by adrenaline=lifeline videos, threads, anything would be helpful

Right Here
Terminator Shootout Video Compilation - SVTPerformance

[adrenaline=lifeline]

Originally Posted by futureMACH1racer No, you'll be getting stronger parts. Trust me, the internals are the last place that you want to be cheap with.

no that was the reason i chose the 03 motor to build off of. but after this new info would it be just as easy to do a mach 1 motor or am i missin a vital piece of info?