Who needs wheels on there car to drive?
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 01:50 AM   #1
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Who needs wheels on there car to drive?


So close to having all the money and parts needed for my s-trim install, but God had other plans. Turning into my neighborhood doing 10mph or so around a decently sharp turn, but 10 is fine enough... my drivers rear wheel flys off remains veriticale and goes under my rear bumper lifts the rear of the car up high enough to scare me shitless then plops down and lands on the rim as it lays horizontal. The rim saved my rear end from hitting the ground, as well as my drum. 2 studs were totally broken off, and the other two had no lugs. All and all the only peices i found was a lug nut.

Heres my issue. The little hub that you press the studs into... I broke a stuff off in there ( a new one that is ) So I want to pull the broken one off, and then get them all pressed properly. How do I remove this?

btw my bumper and quarter panel look like ass, just ripped it up.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 02:05 AM   #2
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thats effin crazy man.....
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 04:08 AM   #3
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Betcha can't do that again! Glad you weren't hurt.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 06:41 AM   #4
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pull the axle out and take it to a shop and get them to press some new studs in.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 08:54 AM   #5
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If there is still enough threads, you can put a lug nut on and beat on it to get it started out (the lug nut prevents it from mushrooming). If there is not enough threads, you can use a small chisel, screwdriver, another stud etc.. and beat it out, just don't miss and whack your hand or you won't be beating anything with that hand for a while
To get new ones on, put them on and tap them in to start and then tighten a lug nut down on them, that will pull them on snug. That is all I've ever done and never had a problem.

The question is how the hell did this even happen?
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 10:57 AM   #6
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You should be able to pull them into the axel flange using a lug nut. Take one of the original studs with you when you get the new ones. There are different shoulder diameters, you may have ended up with the wrong size the first go round.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 01:17 PM   #7
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Well I was able to put all the new studs and lugs in place. I put washers over the stud and tried tightening the lug nut down to press them in but it broke the stud off inside that circular hub/ plate so that needs to come off... so how do I get it off.

o0hh ands btw I think someone tried stealing my rims.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 01:31 PM   #8
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you should be happy that you were going 10 instead of 60 on the highway
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 01:49 PM   #9
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dude thats fucking megaballs
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 01:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
dude thats fucking megaballs

Fuck yeah, bro so close to el vortech. Then this shit happened. If it didn't tear up the body of the car i wouldn't give to shits less. My car was in really really good shape for a fox....
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02 Pewter z28, hoosiers/lid/exhaust/spray...125mph 1993 gt Sold, already missed
--Moates Quarter horse $225--
--Cobra intake $150--
--tremec 3550 bell and shifter $1100--
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 02:06 PM   #11
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1993 5.ohhhh
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02 Pewter z28, hoosiers/lid/exhaust/spray...125mph 1993 gt Sold, already missed
--Moates Quarter horse $225--
--Cobra intake $150--
--tremec 3550 bell and shifter $1100--
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 02:19 PM   #12
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sucks dudeman
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 02:23 PM   #13
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dude your paints gorgeous and the cobra wing looks sick, the body shit doesnt look to bad from the pics
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 03:23 PM   #14
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holy crap man that sucks, glad to hear you're ok though
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 03:36 PM   #15
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The flange IS the axle. Want that off means opening the diff case and pulling the "C" clip to get it out.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 04:33 PM   #16
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Nah, the body damnage is way worse in person.... trust me. Quarter panal needs paint, the bumper is ripped were is runs perpendicular with the tire, and it's spider cracked. Body molding in the fenderwals is effed. Makes me so upset.

I used bigger washers and got the rest of the studs in. Still need to beat the broken one out. I messed with the ebrake so it made the drum harder to go over the breaks. But now the drum has a tad bit of play when I move the rim idk why.
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--Moates Quarter horse $225--
--Cobra intake $150--
--tremec 3550 bell and shifter $1100--
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 08:49 PM   #17
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Are your using open or closed end lug nuts? If closed end, maybe your nuts threads are bottoming out in the stud before it is getting tight enough? Advance sells a box of 25 open end lug nuts (like the stock ones) for like $8.
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 12:05 AM   #18
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the drum prob moves a lil cuz the brake pads arent touching it as hard now since youve beatin on it, just a guess
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 12:43 AM   #19
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Thats what I thought hatch, but I've come to the conclusion that I rounded out the wholes on my rim were the stud goes through.... er go, lots of play. So I'm looking for a cobra r rim 17x8 I think atleast.
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02 Pewter z28, hoosiers/lid/exhaust/spray...125mph 1993 gt Sold, already missed
--Moates Quarter horse $225--
--Cobra intake $150--
--tremec 3550 bell and shifter $1100--
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 12:55 AM   #20
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ohhhhhhh shit i got ya dude, and are these your rims?

Black 1995 Style Cobra R Wheel - 4 Lug 87-93 (17x9) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
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