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#21 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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About that AC. Since the AC system still looks all original and does not appear to have been converted yet, there is a very good chance that there is no R12 left in it and it probably has some serious leaks by now. You will have to decide to ditch the AC or spend money on getting the AC clutch fixed ($30-150 for parts) and then whatever else is wrong like seals/hoses etc and either filled up with R12 (expensive) or converted to R134a (possibly cheaper depending on the method you use). Working with an unknown like you have, I'd consider ditching the AC and get an eliminater bracket.
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Last edited by nolife; January 6th, 2009 at 08:07 PM. |
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#22 |
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Regular
1989 lx convertible
10.87 @ 128 ( old 302 combo)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mt Juliet,TN
Posts: 277
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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I think someone forgot what car he is working on. I always wondered why Ford never made them hydraulic though.
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A bigger motor with a lot of parts they said would make me go faster...... |
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#23 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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clean the engine, lose the mud flaps
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#24 | |
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Enthusiast
2000 mustang GT
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: houston
Posts: 781
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#25 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Good idea but that is not going to solve the A/C clutch problem.
On that note, for those that that stated the A/C clutch could leave you on the side of the road, what happens? Does it freeze up and throw the belt?
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Last edited by nolife; January 6th, 2009 at 11:23 PM. |
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#26 |
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Enthusiast
2000 mustang GT
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: houston
Posts: 781
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HAHA i didn't notice that lol
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#27 |
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Regular
1989 LX coupe 5.0L
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NS Canada
Posts: 496
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ya it can freeze up or go off track and chew the belt up
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#28 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1988 lx
9.68@142
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: goldsboro NC
Posts: 5,596
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best advice i can give ya is start reading. that is gonna teach you the most, be paitent and always research before you buy anything. do you have any goals for the car or are you just wanting to have a fun street driving car? congrats on the purchus do some research on your car its a 93 so it has hypertunic pistons so you have to be a little more careful if you decide to mod it.
the first thing i do is ditch the ac free up a few ponies and cleans up the engine bay. you dont need ac you have 2,60 air.
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#29 |
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Newbie
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ac
i used the a/c eliminator that summit sells. moves ur power steering pump to where the a/c was. youll have to get a smaller belt but thats a cheap fix. youll also gain some power no major gain tho
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#30 | |
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Enthusiast
2000 mustang GT
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: houston
Posts: 781
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while your at it delete the air pump and get the pulley or just get a shorter belt |
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#31 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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yeah definatley lose the AC. I think you should keep the smog pump and catalytic converters because you're in cali
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#32 |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 3,014
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I could see the little kick down cable on the throttle cable bracket.
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PeteAndersonRacing.com |
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#33 |
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Banned
1992 Lx
11.39@119.24
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Az
Posts: 11,665
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE] |
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#34 |
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Regular
1993 Mustang GT
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 408
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Wow, you guys are really smart here.
And very friendly too. Not going to mention which site, but a certain, somewhat popular Honda site, almost everyone is an asshole. ![]() Thanks all. As far as my goals for this car, nothing major, just make it driveable, and a fun street car. |
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#35 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,387
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So basically if your going to touch the smog pump, replace the h pipe first then by pass the smog with a shorter belt and then remove it or purchase a fancy delete pulley so you can keep the same size serp belt |
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#36 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 9
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GET that AC clutch fised ASAP
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#37 |
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Regular
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That's a sexy car man. As far as intake, anything cold air. You can get caught up in the name (bbk, k&n, etc) but as long as it's a high flowing cold air intake away from the heat of the engine, you're good to go. As far as sounds, magnaflow has also always been my personal favorite but there are a lot of good brands out there. I would also cut out the cats if i were you if you can. Where i live we don't have emissions tests so the cats are the first to go. About your aircondtioning problem, i'd just throw it away, you're a mustang owner now buddy. You're an all american badass, just roll down the window who needs all that extra weight?
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#38 |
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Regular
1993 Mustang GT
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 408
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So, I'm supposed to go get the car smogged today, I'm flushing out the radiator, and installing a new thermostat.
I do want this car to have AC, because... it does get hot sometimes haha... but the remove the clutch, should I just loosen that nut in the center, and the whole piece will come off? My Chilton didn't say anything about it, so I figured I'd ask all of you. ![]() That little piece I pointed to, that's all the shakes. For whatever reason the AC doesn't work. I don't know if that's the primary reason or what. Last edited by Firaga; January 9th, 2009 at 02:49 PM. |
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#39 |
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Regular
1989 LX coupe 5.0L
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NS Canada
Posts: 496
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u take that nut off and then you have to use an a/c puller
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#40 |
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Regular
1989 lx convertible
10.87 @ 128 ( old 302 combo)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mt Juliet,TN
Posts: 277
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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you can probably go to Autozone or Advanced auto and 'rent' an A/C clutch remover/installer, and do it yourself in minutes, but you need to set the gap correctly for it to engage right, just a matter of making small adjustments tightening when you install it, but you will also nee to be able to recover,vacuum,inject oil, and recharge. There is a product called 'freeze 12' that costs no more than 134a that is a direct replacement for the r12. Some places sell it under different names, but it always says '12' in it.. G/L....
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A bigger motor with a lot of parts they said would make me go faster...... |
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