[78mach1]

this just happened to pop up today.

ksl.com - Ad Listing

[Iownastang]

Looks like a clusterfuck..

[White Thunder]

are you old enough to be talking like that?

[Iownastang]

your such a jackass skittle.. Haha.... Anyways I agree with the others and think you should just keep the straight axle and leave the irs alone its going to be more of a hassle than its worth.

[86er]

if it matters the 99/01's had weaker bushings, the 03's had the stronger updated bushings

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by EscortSportage So the live axle is hands down better for autocross, open track, drag, street than IRS...i still cant get that, when was the last time uve seen an indy car is a live axle setup, and the IRS is heavier than the live axle?

The issue here is that not all IRS is created equal.

IRS in general is better than a straight axle. However, the Cobra IRS was not designed for handling, it was designed to bolt in in place of the straight axle. It's a compromised design, and it shows.

In terms of pure handling, stock 4-link < IRS < Steeda 5-link < Maximum Motorsports torque arm < Griggs torque arm.

However, Griggs parts are no-compromise race parts, and for a street car I suggest MM over Griggs. For example, the Griggs watts link requires you to cut out a portion of your spare tire well, rendering it useless for carrying a spare tire. IIRC, it also requires a good bit of exhaust modification, if it doesn't outright require side-exit exhaust.

Maximum's parts are compromised for street use and ease of installation, and that's not a bad thing.

If you're into autocrossing your foxbody, my suggestion would be the following:
0)But a Helmet. Closed face if you don't have airbags, open if you do. If you can't afford protective gear, you can't afford to race.
1) Order a Maximum Motorsports chassis brace kit (subframe connectors, strut-tower brace, and k-member brace) before ANYTHING else.
2) Get the best shocks you can afford, and stay away from adjustables unless you can afford Penskes or Ohlins. I repeat, DO NOT BUY ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS. My suggestion would be Bilsteins if you can afford them, or Tokico HPs (blues) if you can't.
3)Get the best, stickiest tires you can. If you can't afford to have a set of dedicated race compounds, I suggest running something along the lines of a Falken Azenis RT-615, Kumho ECSTA MX or XS, or other Ultra-performance summer tire. Don't expect them to last you any more than 15k miles, and consider yourself lucky if you can squeeze 10k out of 'em.
4)Get better front brake pads. Hawks, EBCs, or Porterfields in a street compound. Get stainless braided brake lines
5)Notice I haven't said get springs yet? That's because spring needs change when you change your suspension setup. Get a MM Torque Arm kit, and whatever rear springs they tell you to go with it.
6)Get the MM front grip kit.


Now, you can go racing at any point here. I suggest that you do, so that you can feel the benefits of each change, rather than just throwing a bunch of parts at the car and not understanding what each one improved.

Let me know if you have any questions, and I'll do what I can to answer them.

Most of all, just get out and race!

[EscortSportage]

well i wanted to call MM and look into buying there huge total grip package its like 4500 dollars and comes with everything coil overs, camber caster plates, on all 4, k member a arms, rear torque arms panhard bar, braces, FLSC the goods, i also want to put an 8 point roll cage in her and wild rides racing torque boxes... after that it should be race ready and im thinking of doing a well cell fuel cell, i also want to convert to 5 lug, get 17x9 cobra r front wheels and 17x10.5 rear wheels, and the cobra r brake set ups... so i was figuring if i run IRS i wont need the rear end stuff for live axle... but this is good research and i have plenty of time b4 i buy anything

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by EscortSportage well i wanted to call MM and look into buying there huge total grip package its like 4500 dollars and comes with everything coil overs, camber caster plates, on all 4, k member a arms, rear torque arms panhard bar, braces, FLSC the goods, i also want to put an 8 point roll cage in her and wild rides racing torque boxes... after that it should be race ready and im thinking of doing a well cell fuel cell, i also want to convert to 5 lug, get 17x9 cobra r front wheels and 17x10.5 rear wheels, and the cobra r brake set ups... so i was figuring if i run IRS i wont need the rear end stuff for live axle... but this is good research and i have plenty of time b4 i buy anything

That's all well and good if you have the budget for it.

However, I've got the vibe that you're thinking you need to do all that before you go racing, which is patently false. If you're not already, take your car, as is, and be doing autocrosses and HPDEs while it's still stock. You don't need all those parts to go fast, and you'll appreciate them that much more when you have a baseline for their improvement.

Also, if you are going to race, make sure that all the mods you're looking to do are legal. Be a real shame to drop the time and coin on something only to find out that you can't use it in your chosen series/class.

[EscortSportage]

well i got 7 months to do my HW and research, ive been reading my books and on this forum geting ideas...heres my plan,

first- suspension and chassis (lightly modded motor) maybe 300hp (fun fun)
second- fuel system and body work
third - drivetrain (tremac t5, aluminum shaft, built rear end 3.73 gears, axles etc
4th - 5 lug, brakes, wheels
5th start buidling other motor (dart 2 iron block (302) AFR alum heads, (not sure on intake manny) build motor ground up, gridle etc etc etc
6th twin turbo setup
7th guages, tuning , and tweaks and just lil by lil play with megasquirt 2 stand alone managment system

400hp to 800hp depending on boost/timing/fuel/ and mood im in


im building a race car thats street legal...


LIFE TIME project