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Old February 23rd, 2009, 10:09 AM   #1
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Superchargers and tuning?


I know a supercharger is supposed to be a bolt on, but do they require a a tune/custom chip on a stock car? I am looking into a vortec or procharger. If it is just a bolt on and go, will I have to get a chip or tune as I add a cam,heads etc? I'm trying to reasearch what route to take before I start buying parts. I used to own 5.0's several years ago and made the mistake of selling them but now i'm getting back into them.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 10:30 AM   #2
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yes if you want it to be reliable and make good power...I would buy a chip and have her tuned. got any pics of your car?
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 10:40 AM   #3
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While it is often possible to get a supercharged engine running on a stock ECU using a few tricks, a chip tuned specifically for your mods or a well tuned standalone will give you more reliability and more power.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 10:47 AM   #4
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Alot of people run smaller injectors and a fuel managment unit on 6 psi with a vortech. Either procharger or vortech, the correct way to go is to get real tuning
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 11:08 AM   #5
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Your going to need bigger injectors and fuel pump. And have your mac tuned to the injectors. A tune after a sc is highly recomended
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 11:13 AM   #6
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you should get it tuned by a tunner for best results
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 12:15 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 View Post
Alot of people run smaller injectors and a fuel managment unit on 6 psi with a vortech. Either procharger or vortech, the correct way to go is to get real tuning
"Correct" or not and maybe not an ideal solution for some but an FMU is very simple, cheap, non sexy, but it does what is is designed to do and works.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 12:35 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by nolife View Post
"Correct" or not and maybe not an ideal solution for some but an FMU is very simple, cheap, non sexy, but it does what is is designed to do and works.
to a point, then your running wot on max injector duty cycle and frag grenade one of your pistons.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 01:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by superbean View Post
to a point, then your running wot on max injector duty cycle and frag grenade one of your pistons.
An FMU is not magic, you can't just throw one in there on 19# injectors or a stock fuel pump and expect your fuel system to support 500HP. You can either meet the demands and maintain a good A/F ratio or you can't. That applies with or without an FMU.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 04:26 PM   #10
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fmu's are junk and simply a bandaid for your fueling... get larger injectors and calibrate your maf to it then get a tune and be done with it.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 06:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
fmu's are junk and simply a bandaid for your fueling... get larger injectors and calibrate your maf to it then get a tune and be done with it.
Band aid or not, they work. NOT ideal but they work.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 07:13 PM   #12
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all these posts are correct, but do try to stay away from an FMU, they are usually only temporary, and put a strain on your fuel system.

in order to get the full potential of your forced induction, you should get a proper tune specific for your set up.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 08:15 PM   #13
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get a tune
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Old February 24th, 2009, 06:40 AM   #14
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Ok, so do you need to get a tune if you just add a cam,set of heads,intake,etc, or just for forced induction?
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Old February 24th, 2009, 06:41 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by bansheex View Post
Ok, so do you need to get a tune if you just add a cam,set of heads,intake,etc, or just for forced induction?
Sorry,guess I should mention its a MAF car (1990 GT)
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Old February 24th, 2009, 07:46 AM   #16
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it would be ideal to tune after both
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Old February 24th, 2009, 10:43 AM   #17
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yes. tuning is awesome. take advantage of it. my bolt on/stock motor had a seat of the pants difference after a tune. it needed leaned out and the timing advanced. gained 3 tenths...so you can only imagine what it does after major modifications
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Old February 24th, 2009, 11:27 AM   #18
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yea, listen to everyone else..do it right the first time and get it tuned and make sure ur getting enough air and fuel to your motor...u really dont want to starve ur motor..with a chip ,tune, right amount of fuel and air, will make your car run way better, smoother, stronger, and more reliable, etc.
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Old February 24th, 2009, 12:51 PM   #19
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Set base timing to 20 and fuel to 35 psi and go have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old February 24th, 2009, 05:02 PM   #20
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Okay, I'm probably hijacking the thread but I'm going to use others involvement in the thread to my advantage

Here is the situation I am in.. I have 30# injectors and an FMU, the FMU brings the fuel pressure up to about 90# at my max boost of about 12#. It runs good and my A/F is okay up to my peak 470 rwhp at my 6K redline.

This is an estimate but assume 20% drive train loss (T5 and i still have the stock fan, PS, A/C, and air pump), that puts me at 565 crank NOT INCLUDING the drag the SC puts on the crank So lets say, 580-590 crank HP? Is that a reasonable estimate?

Assuming a BSFC of 0.55, 43 psi fuel pressure, I would need roughly 50# injectors to support crank 600HP with a small buffer.

Can the EEC4 with or without a chip even effectively manage 50# injectors running at 43psi? I don't have the specs in front of me but I've read about the EEC4 can not maintain a duty cycle low enough at idle/low rpm with injectors 42 and larger, it works for some people but it seems to be a problem for others. I assume 50# injectors would be much worse. I've also heard of people having idle problems with 30-42# and the stock 39 PSI and my cam makes it a little hard as well.
So, now I would probably need a stand alone as well?
I have a hard time justifying the cost of a standalone along with tuning, 50# injectors and getting my PMAS recaled just to eliminate my FMU which appears to be working so far. I know an FMU is not cool and a lot of tuners laugh at it but is it really a ticking time bomb?

If my assumptions are wrong, let me know because I will consider getting rid of the FMU. I'd hate to spend $1000+ to have the same end result though. The car is a project and not my daily driver so i could browse the used market and get what I need in time. I've have what I think is a very cheap combination that makes decent power. I should also consider another block
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Last edited by nolife; February 24th, 2009 at 05:24 PM.
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