[thekeysbucket]

My battery died so I went ahead a bought a new one. I checked by starting the car then disengaging the battery cable and the car stopped running as fast as I took off the terminal. Is this a bad alternator? Also, I get shocked exiting the drivers side after driving, fun. Is the install easy with the new alternator and belt replacement? Should I put a battery kill switch in also to be safe? I'm changing it out today, so if you I can get help asap I would much appreciate it. Thanks guys.

[hotrodredneck]

the trick of pulling the terminal off doesnt work so well with FI cars. there is too much of an electrical draw. best bet is to get a volt meter or multi meter, and read the volts at the batt when the car is running. It should be around 14 vDC. as for getting shocked, sounds like you a good size short in there somewhere.


the install is not too hard for an alternator

[thekeysbucket]

And I forgot to mention that I had put under drive pullies on but im thinking that It's best to keep the stock pully on the alternator when I replace it.

[hotrodredneck]

i am not a fan of UDP's the hp gain vs other issues are minimal. wait till your oil pump craps out, and your oil pan looks like this














not mine, was a buddies

[thekeysbucket]

Are you kidding me? So the 15hp gain isn't worth it now...thats just great. so...now what should do for the oil pump? I figured I can have a good hobby of fixing almost everything on my car but now I'm a little concerned about what these UDPs are doing, or what they are going to be doing to make my life miserable. Well...about the alternator, what do you think?

[89lx]

no way ud pullies did that to the oil

[87FloridaGT]

Originally Posted by 89lx no way ud pullies did that to the oil

x1000000000000000
Come on bro...UDP didnt cause that damage. Poor maintenace, spraying the hell out of the motor and other variables do that shit

[hotrodredneck]

UDP, caused the oil pump to sh@t.....

that and drunk prior owner driving it with 0 oil pressure. and that was only the #4 cyl rod bearing

[93hatch]

maybe in a mod motor where its externally balanced

[CAMN89GT]

Originally Posted by hotrodredneck UDP, caused the oil pump to sh@t..... that and drunk prior owner driving it with 0 oil pressure. and that was only the #4 cyl rod bearing

UDP possibly could of caused the oil pump to take a shitter, however... that motor was ABUSED worse than a red headed step child, I'll bet 9.9 out of 10 that motor was sprayed with a 175 pill or higher.

[White Thunder]

There is the more exspensive way. Eletric water pump fuel pump and fans. And the alternator change out should take less than 10 mins

[baine21225]

easy as cake, and your not gaining 15 hp from the udp

[hotrodredneck]

Originally Posted by CAMN89GT UDP possibly could of caused the oil pump to take a shitter, however... that motor was ABUSED worse than a red headed step child, I'll bet 9.9 out of 10 that motor was sprayed with a 175 pill or higher.

nah, just the guy who owned it was a drunk...that oils was in the pan for a few months after I had pulled the heads and all off and it was sitting in the garage for a couple months, waiting for another engine



what caused the damage was driving on it for a month.







as for the alternator....it shouldnt take long...but be sure to disconnect the battery first

[thekeysbucket]

Alright yesterday after we talked I went to Kragen and had the alternator tested, the results were that it was over charging. I had installed the new battery into the car before the test was done just to make sure I was getting proper readings. This morning I jumped in all happy with my readings and spanking new juice....and it was dead again. So do you think it could be a bad ground now? I have a Chilton but the diagrams suck, way too small and confusing. What should I do, start from the battery and work my way out from it? I'm going to check and clean (possibly replace) and cables.

[hotrodredneck]

I would be willing to bet its near that door that is shocking ya

[White Thunder]

Buy new cables there cheap

[hotrodredneck]

wow, white thunder, your avatar hurts my eyes...lol

[thekeysbucket]

Alright done! I grabbed my tools and headed out to my parking lot and started ripping things out of my car. Now mind you, I live in an apartment complex. I got the best spot, you know the "Holy Grail" of parking spots so your wife can throw botttles of water from the balcony without coming down to drive you nuts. I started removing everything! I started with the radiator hoses to the power steering, the A/C, then to the alternator, fan, fan pully old POS water pump (which I think shellfish were living in), Belt and shroud (maybe not in this order) but I made the shit happen! I replaced the the water pump and the alternator. Put everything back into the car, except that one bastard bolt thats always gets left behind! But she works great and there isnt even a leak and...I don't get shocked anymore. So the mystery of a car that the battery dies while sitting but charges while driving is solved. Moral of the story is that if your 88 mustang is dying electrically when you have the neg cable off during the night but not while you drive, it's the the way the alternator works in those cars. Draws mysteriously when the car is shut down, change out the alternator ASAP! And theres a good chance you won't get shocked any more hahahahaha.

[50fanatic]

I bought a 95 mustang newly remanufactured 130 amp 3g alternator for 80 bucks. Not ebay. Local. The pulley is the same size as the under drive pulley that came for my stock 2g alternator. I'll install that and the underdrive crank pulley, that comes with the set. I'm not touching the water pump pulley, cause I have a clutch fan, which will already slow down with the crank pulley. I just don't want it to slow down even more. The crank is 25 percent underdrive. I'm running a 180 degree thermostat and most of the time my temp gauge runs on A of NORMAL. Between A and L, locally.