[stfudvs]

i need to re-do the entire suspension, dont know anything about suspension so i was hoping to get ideas on a whole kit, not looking to spend too much i just want better ride, better cornering and something that isnt 20 years old

and recommend a good k member

[flamestang]

UPR products FTW

[stfudvs]

hoping for specifics? i want a kmember so should i get a kmember kit for the front and then a rear suspension kit

if so what are good combos


what all should i replace i know it is old and ratty and neglected
will be looking to buy and pice together tell i have a full kit so what shoudl i look to get

[baine21225]

AJE or team z front end kit

[jack90gt]

UPR k-member and upr rear setup

[fateisajester]

why do you want to get a kmember? oil pan too big? car too heavy? other than that, you dont need one

[ponygrrl]

What are the goals for the car? Do you wanna take corners well or launch good? Or do you want something in between?

If you're not going to be competing with the car and it's just a daily, a Kmember isn't necessary, more of a luxury you could say. Upper and lower rear control arms are always a good bet with suspension and also a set of subframe connectors if you're going to be beating on the car at all.

Again, we can give specifics, but you have to too

[ReverendDexter]

+1 on the goals. A corner carver is going to have VERY different needs than a 1/4 mile car.

If you want a kit that will work together and to not have to think about matching components, go to Maximum Motorsports, and buy the best grip box you can afford. They start around $1k, and go up past $6k depending on how serious you want to be.

Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension

[M L Struck]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter +1 on the goals. A corner carver is going to have VERY different needs than a 1/4 mile car. If you want a kit that will work together and to not have to think about matching components, go to Maximum Motorsports, and buy the best grip box you can afford. They start around $1k, and go up past $6k depending on how serious you want to be. Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension

+1

[stfudvs]

i dont race 1/4 mile its a daily driver,

but i drive it very hard and very fast, so i wouldnt say i am worried about launch ,

im more into cornering and even tho i don't race i like shaving weight off the car, i like the idea that the mods i have and will b e getting will be pushing as little weight as possable, and also i have been told a kmember would make it easier to work on,
which is big to me because i am a newbie and this is my learning car

so i just want something to replace the 20 year old system i have
that can handle my daily beatings and corner beautify
without being too stiff and uncomfortable because it is a daily driver


specific enough

right now i am looking at this front end kit MUSTANG-UPR Products.com
what else can i purchase along with this kit and what would be a good rear end kit

id like to spend less than 700 on the rear end kit

[flyin ryan]

upr's stuff is pretty good it's all chrome moly which is much stronger then stock and much lighter. Aje is the lightest while maximum motor sports is the heaviest from my experience but mm's is geared towards oval track usage where as pretty much all the others are geared towards weight loss while being stronger then stock. mm's requires you purchase there whole front end kit which is pricey, others like qa1 you can reuse your stock a arms.

I'll tell you this, i've used upr, qa1 and team z tubular k's in the past and any of them are good. They shed allot of weight and really open tons of space allowing you to get to pretty much anything from under neigh. Install isn't too bad neither.

[ponygrrl]

Yes, specific enough.

Get the UPR K-memeber front kit with the coilovers, etc. Probably should stick with the 250 spring rate.

For the rears, I would just stick with UPR (they may give you a great package price for it).

For uppers, best bet is a double adjustable with a poly bushing. Spherical bushings can sometimes be a bit aggressive for street use.
MUSTANG-UPR Products.com

For lowers, there's either the solid lower from UPR:
MUSTANG-UPR Products.com

Or, if you don't mind spending a little more, Max. Mot. has the "weight jacker" type lowers. I run them and love them.
HD Adj. Rear Lower Control Arms, 1979-98, with swaybar mount [MMRLCA-2] - $379.95 : Maximum Motorsports Performance Mustang Suspension Store, Buy Now!

If you really want to focus on handling, look into a rear swaybar, strut tower brace and some subframe connectors.

There's also the option mentioned earlier, that MM has "grip boxes" that come with different levels of suspension.

[M L Struck]

Call Maximum Motorsports and tell them what you want to do, there cars handle great, and they are suspention guys

[ponygrrl]

Originally Posted by M L Struck Call Maximum Motorsports and tell then there cars handle great, and they are suspention guys

[GoodOleBoyzRacin]

if you do a tubular k-member i think your gonna have to do the front coil over setup also. UPR ftw. subframe connectors will be a good addition also. just buy a whole kit and get it over with.

[Squints]

Originally Posted by ponygrrl

+1

[Sleeper_Stang_89]

Originally Posted by flamestang UPR products FTW

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by ponygrrl For uppers, best bet is a double adjustable with a poly bushing. Spherical bushings can sometimes be a bit aggressive for street use.

Whoa, WRONG WRONG WRONG. These might be okay for a drag car, but NEVER EVER EVER put poly bushings in the UCAs on a street car!

You have 2 choices when it comes to the UCAs for a street/handling car: leave them totally stock, including the rubber bushings, or get a system that totally replaces them, such as a torque arm.

The triangulated 4-link is engineered such that it requires the bushing deflection of rubber bushings to actually work. Getting rid of the rubbers will only lead to bind, and suspension that's even more unpredictable than it already is.

[88-gt-t-top]

I have the QA-1 front kit and it's perfect... not that expensive, bolts right in with no problems, I say QA-1.

[ponygrrl]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Whoa, WRONG WRONG WRONG. These might be okay for a drag car, but NEVER EVER EVER put poly bushings in the UCAs on a street car! You have 2 choices when it comes to the UCAs for a street/handling car: leave them totally stock, including the rubber bushings, or get a system that totally replaces them, such as a torque arm. The triangulated 4-link is engineered such that it requires the bushing deflection of rubber bushings to actually work. Getting rid of the rubbers will only lead to bind, and suspension that's even more unpredictable than it already is.

Why wouldn't u want the urethane bushings on a street car? Are you saying a spherical is better? I could be wrong and would like to know right. I put sphericals (pro-series) in my car and although they're strong and stiff, I'm ready to get a set of UPR street arms. Unless you're telling me they aren't really good for street...

Hmm...