Boost Gauge Install: How To
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Old March 15th, 2009, 12:51 AM   #1
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Boost Gauge Install: How To


I know this is not the most daunting of tasks but I've had to help three of my friends do it now, soooo since I have a new toy with a V1 I figured I'd do a write up on it.

List of supplies you will need:
1. Boost gauge
2. Light for gauge
3. Vacuum line
4. Vacuum T
5. Vacuum line connector
6. Drill
7. Grommet
8. Black 14 gauge wire
9. White 14 gauge wire
10. Weatherproof butt connectors (for 14 gauge wire)
11. Wire cutters
12. Needle nose pliers
13. Wire strippers
14. Crimping tool
15. Pillar gauge pod
16. Teflon tape
17. Add a fuse connector



1. Remove stock pillar



2. Fish black and white wires through edge of dash, about 4 feet of black and 2 feet of white



3. Put ends of light and new black and white wires in the butt connector and crimp (top side of dash)



4. Now heat the shrink on the connector for a good seal



5. You can now test you connection with a 9V battery, so if you have an issue later you know that it's not from here. at this point take the white wire, connect with butt connector to the add a fuse connector and place it in a spot that is only on with your ignition or switch or a switch on. i used the headlight switch so the light will work with the dimmer switch (sorry, forgot to take a picture of this)



6. Fish the vacuum line through the dash like you did with the previous wires, but sine the line is in a permanent curl position, it is easier to fish a piece of wire through then tape the ends of the wire and vacuum line together and pull the line through



7. Now you should have the two wires and vacuum line all fished through together



8. Drill a hole in your firewall/driver-side dash area to fish your wires/lines through (note that if you have a wideband you need to drill big enough to fit the pigtail through) now put the grommet in and pull black wire through. you will see a ground tether to the left, you can use this as your ground.



9. Take the upper end of your vacuum line and put the end cap and crush piece on the line, these feel tight but they will fit



10. now put the third piece that screws on to the back on the boost gauge on as well (wrap threads in teflon tape, but be sure not to cover hole)



11. Tighten



12. Slide your pillar into place (unbolted) and pull the light and vacuum line through the space you are installing the gauge, be sure none are kinked or bent



13. Install light in back of boost gauge, as well as the vacuum line, be sure to teflon tape the threads on the back of the gauge



14. Fish you vacuum line through you new hole and place the vacuum connector on the end of the line (appropriately cut)

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Old March 15th, 2009, 12:51 AM   #2
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15. Use the T and tap into a vacuum line



16. Pull your wires/lines tight as you push the gauge into the pillar and connect the pillar to the car





If you have any questions please feel free to ask

Rep is appreciated
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Last edited by baine21225; March 15th, 2009 at 12:58 AM.
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Old March 15th, 2009, 12:58 AM   #3
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nice dude repped, hopefully ill be installing just a single pod for my temp guage... what wire did you tap to light it up? you said the dimmer switch? where could i tap into that?
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Old March 15th, 2009, 01:01 AM   #4
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on my 89 it's fuse number 13, left side of fuse box
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Old March 15th, 2009, 01:02 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by baine21225 View Post
on my 89 it's fuse number 13, left side of fuse box
oh shit straight into the fuse box? how did you do this?
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 15th, 2009, 01:06 AM   #6
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thats what the add a fuse is for. . . . it looks like a black fuse that plugs into the place where the original one is, but it has a place for the old one and a new on on top of it, so you just connect your power wire (white wire) to the wire coming from this, and your good to go
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Old March 15th, 2009, 01:09 AM   #7
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ohhhhhhhhhhh shit ive never heard of that, thanks dude you just saved me some frustration prob next saturday
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 15th, 2009, 01:12 AM   #8
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i aim to please
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Old March 15th, 2009, 01:13 AM   #9
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<------------pleased
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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Old March 15th, 2009, 10:56 AM   #10
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Nice write up.
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Old March 15th, 2009, 11:07 AM   #11
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havent seen ya in a while chris, how ya been?
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Old March 15th, 2009, 11:46 AM   #12
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Been good, thanks for asking. The car had been sitting for a while due to no monies, but recently I have gotten the torque boxes all welded up and I am dropping the car off today to get ready to be painted....

I'll probably put together a thread to show the progress.

How've you been y0? Still having problems with those spark plugs?
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Old March 15th, 2009, 12:05 PM   #13
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been good.....still no new plugs....so i have new msd wires, new msd programable 6al-2, some mega coil.....and the old ass plugs, going to install a new radiator and electric fan today
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Old March 15th, 2009, 01:19 PM   #14
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What heads are on your car? Sounds like you have about an hour's worth of work to tackle.
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Old March 15th, 2009, 02:27 PM   #15
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E7
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Old March 16th, 2009, 12:24 AM   #16
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would anyone be interested on a wideband how to?
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Old March 16th, 2009, 12:35 AM   #17
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Nicely done, if ya dont mind me asking, how long did it take ya 2-3 hours?

I have to redo my Water Temp gauge. it was broken when i got the car....problem is its Mechanical, and i dunno anything really of how these things work and if its fixable.....

But nice work, thanks for the post!
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Old March 16th, 2009, 12:53 AM   #18
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thanks, if your doing it your first time maybe two hours on the long end, its really not hard at all.....i'm installing a new water temp gauge next week so i'll do a writeup on that when it gets here
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Old March 16th, 2009, 01:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by baine21225 View Post
thanks, if your doing it your first time maybe two hours on the long end, its really not hard at all.....i'm installing a new water temp gauge next week so i'll do a writeup on that when it gets here
Awesome! Thanks man! Really appreciate it!

Also Do you suggest i switch to a Electronic gauge? Or try to find out if i can save mine, i was just wondering, b/c i hear the mechanical ones arnt supposed to be in the car?
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Old March 16th, 2009, 01:40 AM   #20
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the only mechanical i wouldn't put in the car is fuel pressure, and usually the mechanical ones are a little more accurate and are much less prone to break.....my buddy sells auto meter and says the sending units go up in the electronic on ALL the time
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