[cowboyup351]

Ok. So, I should have taken then block out and to a machine shop to get it checked out...

Here's my ordeal. I bought an '89 GT with a GT40P swap that had already been done. Engine is almost new. Only 30,000 miles on it. The day I buy it, I'm not getting any fuel, find out the Fuel pump is bad. Replace it,,,,,car starts, Yea! Take it for a test drive, hear an ignition knock. Do a little research, find out i have a blown head gasket. Next I go ahead and tear the engine down. Was going to take the heads down to a machine shop to get them tested, but instead, I get the bright idea that since I have the engine apart, why not upgrade! Ha! So, I live in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area and head down to Dallas Mustang to pick up my new Trick Flow Track Heat upper and lower intake and new Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads. I also pick up a new set of adjustable roller-rockers. I spend the next week putting it all together. I finally get it all together, and here's a list of what this car has on it...
GT40P Short block
Twisted Wedge Heads
Track Heat U/L Intake
E303 Cam
roller rockers
Paxton Novi 2000 (roughly 8psi)
255 LPh Fuel Pump
42# injectors
3 core radiator (freshly re-cored)
modified AOD Tranny
3:73 posi 8.8 rear
Motorcraft Shorty headers
X-pipe w/Flowmasters
Now that this car's finally together, I get the timing set so I can at least make to to Dallas Mustang to get it Dyno-Tuned. I take the car for a little test drive after bleeding the brakes and don't get more than 20 miles on it and it's blowing white smoke out the tail pipe. I pull over immediately and pop the hood. I find the Oil filler cap has blown off on the highway somewhere and there is a lovely milky white substance on the underside of the hood directly above the oil filler, and also on the dipstick. I'm thinking I have a cracked block, but what do you guys think? I'm open to all suggestions.

When I start the car cold, no issues. After it warms up, that's when smoke comes out. Doesn't over heat, hovers around 220 degrees. All new set of gaskets, including new graphite head gaskets. Any help ya'll can offer is much appreciated. Sorry for the long post. I'll try to answer any questions as quickly as I can.

Thanks again in advance for any help given.

Dwayne

[1slo5.0]

Did you drive it hard at all? If so where is the timing at and do you have a boost retard device? As for the dip stick blowing out, that doesn't mean a cracked block. When you have a blower forcing air into the cylinders and a head gasket goes, you can have air being forced into the oil system.

[cowboyup351]

Forgive my ignorance, but i have no idea if the car has a boost retard device or what one is for that matter. So I would guess no. The car hasn't been driven hard yet. I want to, but haven't yet. Do you think the heads are blown; I could possiby have a cracked or warped block; or do you think the supercharger just pushed to hard when I started the engine and drove it down the street? I really don't want to tear the engine apart again, as I have already vested a lot of time in this already, but I will if necessary.

[flattusmaximus78]

When I put my vortech on I blew my dipstick out on the dyno. My crank case vent line from the oil filler had a line going back into the intake manifold. So the oil pan is seeing boost. The other stuff idk.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by cowboyup351 Forgive my ignorance, but i have no idea if the car has a boost retard device or what one is for that matter. So I would guess no. The car hasn't been driven hard yet. I want to, but haven't yet. Do you think the heads are blown; I could possiby have a cracked or warped block; or do you think the supercharger just pushed to hard when I started the engine and drove it down the street? I really don't want to tear the engine apart again, as I have already vested a lot of time in this already, but I will if necessary.

Did you put the blower on? Do you have any experience with blower cars? You need to eliminate the PCV and the line that runs from the intake to the valve cover like flattusmaximus78 said. You are going to need to pull the engine apart and find out what the problem is. Don't put it back together until you find the problem. If you can't find the problem take it to a reputable engine builder/shop.

[cowboyup351]

Originally Posted by Darrell Did you put the blower on? Do you have any experience with blower cars? You need to eliminate the PCV and the line that runs from the intake to the valve cover like flattusmaximus78 said. You are going to need to pull the engine apart and find out what the problem is. Don't put it back together until you find the problem. If you can't find the problem take it to a reputable engine builder/shop.

I did not install the blower. It was done by a speed shop, that is now de-funct and also done way before I bought it. Worked fine according to the previous owner, who is a friend of mine. I think most of the issue stems from when I bought it, it had sat outside for over 8 months and only moved by hand. I'm afraid that even though the engine only had about 30,000 miles on it, being stagnant for an 8 month stretch has had something to do with this issue. I'm thinking I am going to follow ya'll's (<--that is a word in Texas) advice and just pull it apart after a compression test, and see WTF is up with it. If it's a bad block, should I go junk-yarding or short block hunting at a motor company?

What do ya'll think?

[jack90gt]

Depends what you got to spend on a block...

[Iwannagofast]

with the trickflow top end and a blower.....you may wanna look into an aftermarket block because youll be making pretty good power

[cowboyup351]

Who makes a decent aftermarket block? I keep hearing about these dart blocks, but I don't know if I can get myself to spend $4k on a short block....is there another company, or should I just let the stang sit for a while and save up for a dart?

[Iwannagofast]

the block alone is usually around 2k....you can get the ford racing boss block for a couple hundred cheaper....its rated at like 1200 hp or something like that

[Iownastang]

I Would just save up for a dart as the boss blocks cylinder bores are .500 shorter than a normal 8.2 in deck motor.

[cowboyup351]

Originally Posted by Iwannagofast the block alone is usually around 2k....you can get the ford racing boss block for a couple hundred cheaper....its rated at like 1200 hp or something like that

You say around 2K? Where do you find one for that price? I looked up dartheads.com and the S/B assembly was 4K.