[willybuck]

i was wondering if you can run the tfi dist with a carb motor. i have msd box was just wondering if this could be done any help will be great. thanks

[Racinjason81]

yes you can in fact that is what i used when i did my v8 bronco 2 tfi with a carb

[1slo5.0]

If you are going to leave the computer in the car, why put a carb on it? Why not stay with EFI?

[Matt Cramer]

If you don't use a computer with the TFI distributor, its timing will be locked out. Depending on your plans, that may or may not be a good thing.

[willybuck]

i dont have a computer i bought a 90 gt 5.0 and was just wondering if i could use the dist. that came with it.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by willybuck i dont have a computer i bought a 90 gt 5.0 and was just wondering if i could use the dist. that came with it.

Why do you want to put a carburetor on it????

[Notcho]

Originally Posted by Darrell Why do you want to put a carburetor on it????

+1, finally someone who agrees with me. EFI>carb

Originally Posted by willybuck i dont have a computer i bought a 90 gt 5.0 and was just wondering if i could use the dist. that came with it.

But it looks as though he doesn't have the computer.. that's probably why he wants to go with a carb. Still.. I would find EFI stuff and set it back up. Definately worth it.

[TN.Frank]

Why is everyone so Anti-Carb? EFI sucks ass, you can't tune it unless you've got a computer tech degree and if you don't have a lap top or other way to access your ECM you're pretty much stuck with what the factory puts into it. I LOVE carbs, I can re-jet em', adjust the air/fuel at idel mixture with a screw driver and there's no injectors or MAFs to worry about. Carbs are simple and for us Old School folks they work better then FI because we understand em'. I"m going carb on my '89. In fact I can't hardly wait. Of course I guess all you EFI guys like Auto Trans too so you can let the valve body do your shifting for you. I'd rather have the control then let some dang computer do it for me. Carbs and Manual Trans, that's the ticket.

P.S.
Here's the dizzy you want:
Mallory 8555101C - Mallory 85 Series HEI Distributors
No need for a computer and you can get the stupid coil off of the fender well to give your engine bay a cleaner look.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank Why is everyone so Anti-Carb? EFI sucks ass, you can't tune it unless you've got a computer tech degree and if you don't have a lap top or other way to access your ECM you're pretty much stuck with what the factory puts into it. I LOVE carbs, I can re-jet em', adjust the air/fuel at idel mixture with a screw driver and there's no injectors or MAFs to worry about. Carbs are simple and for us Old School folks they work better then FI because we understand em'. I"m going carb on my '89. In fact I can't hardly wait. Of course I guess all you EFI guys like Auto Trans too so you can let the valve body do your shifting for you. I'd rather have the control then let some dang computer do it for me. Carbs and Manual Trans, that's the ticket. P.S. Here's the dizzy you want: Mallory 8555101C - Mallory 85 Series HEI Distributors No need for a computer and you can get the stupid coil off of the fender well to give your engine bay a cleaner look.

EFI is superior to carburetion. EFI is more efficient. That is a fact. Changing jets and adjusting the air mixture screws is only a small portion of tuning a carb. To do the equivelant with EFI requires no laptop tuning at all. There is so much more involved in carb tuning than most people know. My last engine picked up thirty something horsepower just from changing air bleeds. It picked up a few more here and there by drilling out metering passages and changing boosters. All said and done with picked up about 50 horsepower with hours of tuning where most people would have just made a jet change and adjusted the mixture screws and called it a day and would have been happy with the 14 or so horsepower the jet change made. After the hours we spent on the dyno tuning the carb I swore to myself that from this point forward I was going to listen to my engine builder and go EFI. It would have been cheaper for me and also saved me a bunch of dyno time. You don't need a laptop to tune EFI. You take it to a reputable tuner, put it on the dyno and tune it. Then you leave it alone and go racing (or hit the street). Its not like Fast & Furious where you have to tune it while you are going down the road or if the temperature changes. That is more true of a carburetor. If you use your butt dyno and tune it yourself then yes, you would need a laptop. Big deal, who doesn't have a laptop or two these days? What's funny about that is I use an MSD Digital 7 in almost every car I build and it requires a laptop to tune....even with a carburetor. EFI doesn't suck ass, ignorance does....

[JBIGBOOTSY]

[QUOTE=TN.Frank;1987408]Why is everyone so Anti-Carb? EFI sucks ass, you can't tune it unless you've got a computer tech degree and if you don't have a lap top or other way to access your ECM you're pretty much stuck with what the factory puts into it. I LOVE carbs, I can re-jet em', adjust the air/fuel at idel mixture with a screw driver and there's no injectors or MAFs to worry about. Carbs are simple and for us Old School folks they work better then FI because we understand em'. I"m going carb on my '89. In fact I can't hardly wait. Of course I guess all you EFI guys like Auto Trans too so you can let the valve body do your shifting for you. I'd rather have the control then let some dang computer do it for me. Carbs and Manual Trans, that's the ticket.

no, no, no.

Carbs are subject to their own circuitry, which you cannot change. Yes you can re jet a carb, and adjust idle mixture, but ummm, thats it.

if you have an extra 1 hour in your life and a internet connection, you can learn all you want about efi.

Tuning is not too hard, yes you need a way to manage it, if you doubt it, just look up any of the top cars in any class and if allowed i'll bet most of them are EFI.

[willybuck]

its not the fact i dont like efi actually i love it but i am working with a striped out drag car and i am using and old intake and carb i got to get it going it is going to be track only. just trying to get it going on a budget.
will that mallory dist. work with roller cam? thanks

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by willybuck its not the fact i dont like efi actually i love it but i am working with a striped out drag car and i am using and old intake and carb i got to get it going it is going to be track only. just trying to get it going on a budget. will that mallory dist. work with roller cam? thanks

That makes sense if you are trying to pinch pennies and you have parts laying around. Get a bronze or composite gear for the distributor and you will be good to go.

[TN.Frank]

All I know is that a carb, intake and dizzy will run me about $700 bucks, to fix my EFI to the same level it'll cost about $1200. I can sit down and do things to a carb to make it run better, I'm pretty much helpless with EFI. One point did come up at work today, what about my Tach, it runs off of the TFI dizzy, right? When I change out dizzies and stuff will the Tach still work, can I hook it up to the new dizzy or will it be pretty much useless and I'll just have to buy a new Tach? I really hate to keep the EFI on my car, I hate the helpless feeling it gives me and I hate being a slave to sensors to make it work BUT if I'm going to have issues with wiring and stuff I may have no choice.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank All I know is that a carb, intake and dizzy will run me about $700 bucks, to fix my EFI to the same level it'll cost about $1200. I can sit down and do things to a carb to make it run better, I'm pretty much helpless with EFI. One point did come up at work today, what about my Tach, it runs off of the TFI dizzy, right? When I change out dizzies and stuff will the Tach still work, can I hook it up to the new dizzy or will it be pretty much useless and I'll just have to buy a new Tach? I really hate to keep the EFI on my car, I hate the helpless feeling it gives me and I hate being a slave to sensors to make it work BUT if I'm going to have issues with wiring and stuff I may have no choice.

You have EFI now and it will cost you $1200 to make it perform like a $700 car, intake and distributor combo? You are doing something wrong. Don't forget to factor in the cost of the fuel system when converting to carb. Unless you are going to go the low buck way and try to use the EFI fuel system and a low pressure bypass regulator which will work on low horsepower stuff but if you fall into the lower horsepower category then why will it cost $1200 to "fix" your current EFI system? A basic EFI system (like the factory system) is cheap, easy and will run smoother with no tuning than most out of the box carburetors. Alot of my earlier EFI stuff I never did anything more than adjust fuel pressure and ignition timing and it all performed very well and was smooth as silk. I had a 91 GT that ran 11.50s about 10 years ago that had no special tuning and a stock computer. No chip, extender or anything. It also pulled down 25mpg on the highway. That might not sound very impressive by todays standards but back then it was impressive to run 11.50s at the track and then the next day start a 5000 mile road trip. EFI is not as complicated as some people make it out to be.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank All I know is that a carb, intake and dizzy will run me about $700 bucks, to fix my EFI to the same level it'll cost about $1200. I can sit down and do things to a carb to make it run better, I'm pretty much helpless with EFI. One point did come up at work today, what about my Tach, it runs off of the TFI dizzy, right? When I change out dizzies and stuff will the Tach still work, can I hook it up to the new dizzy or will it be pretty much useless and I'll just have to buy a new Tach? I really hate to keep the EFI on my car, I hate the helpless feeling it gives me and I hate being a slave to sensors to make it work BUT if I'm going to have issues with wiring and stuff I may have no choice.

Your tac will work with any dizzy. If you use an EFI dizzy and computer, you can rig up your TPS sensor to the throttle shaft to keep your timing curve.

[TN.Frank]

Basically my FI is screwed. The car I have wasn't taken care of very well so I'll need ALL the EFI parts to get it back in some state of tune. I'm also getting the GT40p heads so I'll want a new intake and plenum which comes with fuel rails($570) new TB and MAF that'll be 75mm(TB+$126,EGR plate=$45 and MAF=$226) and the injectors look like toast, the plastic is looking real bad so there's a set of new injectors($168) add it all up and throw in $600 for the heads and I"m looking at about $1750 to do my top end. Of course that doesn't inclued a couple new O2 sensors, any high pressure fuel line that I'll need or any of the other little things like gaskets and stuff. I wish I'd never seen this car let alone traded for it.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank Basically my FI is screwed. The car I have wasn't taken care of very well so I'll need ALL the EFI parts to get it back in some state of tune. I'm also getting the GT40p heads so I'll want a new intake and plenum which comes with fuel rails($570) new TB and MAF that'll be 75mm(TB+$126,EGR plate=$45 and MAF=$226) and the injectors look like toast, the plastic is looking real bad so there's a set of new injectors($168) add it all up and throw in $600 for the heads and I"m looking at about $1750 to do my top end. Of course that doesn't inclued a couple new O2 sensors, any high pressure fuel line that I'll need or any of the other little things like gaskets and stuff. I wish I'd never seen this car let alone traded for it.

Sumped tank 200, holly blue, and filter 200, 100 on rubber fuel line, and fittings, 100 regulator, intake 200, dizzy 200, decent 4150, BG, proform, or quickfuel carb 550. ignition 200.

pretty close.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Oh yea, linkage, air filter(new hood for air filter to fit under)

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank Basically my FI is screwed. The car I have wasn't taken care of very well so I'll need ALL the EFI parts to get it back in some state of tune. I'm also getting the GT40p heads so I'll want a new intake and plenum which comes with fuel rails($570) new TB and MAF that'll be 75mm(TB+$126,EGR plate=$45 and MAF=$226) and the injectors look like toast, the plastic is looking real bad so there's a set of new injectors($168) add it all up and throw in $600 for the heads and I"m looking at about $1750 to do my top end. Of course that doesn't inclued a couple new O2 sensors, any high pressure fuel line that I'll need or any of the other little things like gaskets and stuff. I wish I'd never seen this car let alone traded for it.

What problems are you having? Your list of parts and prices is out of whack too. I can see how you'd spend $1200 on your current EFI system, you are buying the wrong parts.

[TN.Frank]

Summit SUM-227205 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Mustang Throttle Bodies
Summit SUM-227505 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® EGR Plates for Mustangs
Summit SUM-29050C-C - Summit® Mass Airflow Sensors
Summit SUM-240019 - Summit® High-Flow Fuel Injectors
BBK Performance 5001 - BBK SSI Performance Intake Manifolds
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51500600 - Trick Flow® Air Conditioning Eliminator Brackets
Tri-State Cylinder Head - Chevy, Ford, Small Block, Performance, Aluminum Cylinder Heads

You do the math and tell me where I'm wrong. Prices are going rate for most other places I've looked at if not just a bit cheaper. Car runs like shit, smokes, FI parts looks like shit. If I'm going to do it I"m going to do it right,not half assed so that means spending some cash on the set-up. Also, I'll have to totally referb my dizzy(new cap, rotor, TFI mod, coil, wires, plugs) just like I"m having to do the entire brake system, shocks, U-Joints, ect. The car I got is totally thrashed, it's going to take a lot of time and money to whip it into shape.