[flattusmaximus78]

Did a search through threads and couldn't fin anything. However, my gas pedal at the very top before it releases is just notchy. once I get past that notch its back to normal. So I have to take off at a light like a ricer revving 9 times until the clutch catches. Its almost in and out with the gas pedal.

I was wonderingif the spring on the throttlecable could have anything to do with this, and while I'm on the subject of springs, can the spring on the idle screw go bad?

[93hatch]

rawful itll do that if you have the idle screw backed too far away from the lever it touches, it needs to be just barely touching it or itll do this

[mxnate116]

it did that on my stock throttle body. it was so worn out it had a notch cut into it and the blade would get stuck. it was hell for the first 3 weeks i had the car

[flattusmaximus78]

Ohh so this isn't out of the ordinary. I'm still wonering if the same can be said about the ile screw.

My car idles geat at start up then it barely sounds cammed after I drive it around

[93hatch]

that screw doesnt really do anything besides push the tb open to make ur car idle right, kinda like it makes the gas pedal engage a lil so i doubt thats it, go see if its touching that lever or not dude takes 2 min

[flattusmaximus78]

What leveler. If the springs loose wont the screw back out slowly?

[93hatch]

that screw presses against the throttle bracket thing, idk the name of it go look how it works its stupid simple, and maybe it would back out but i doubt it

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 93hatch rawful itll do that if you have the idle screw backed too far away from the lever it touches, it needs to be just barely touching it or itll do this

+1

[Chris951]

Yeah the idle screw under the throttle body is probably backed out too far. I was trying to lower my idle a few weeks ago and backed it out too far and the pedal was all sticky.

[flattusmaximus78]

The top bolt on my throttle cable bracket was out. Tossed a new one in there. It's def better. Now the cars floating idle is back to the way it used to be. In neutral while rolling it hangs at 1100. When I come to a stop, after 20 seconds of idling at 1100 is drops down to a normal idle. Idk what it would be. Brand new vac lines, no intake vac leaks. Anything guys?

Occasionally it will drive between 500 and 1000 while rolling. I need to get my idle down, I'm going to get a smaller pulley and I need the car to run right, I'm getting horrible gas mileage idling like this with my afrs in the tens.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 The top bolt on my throttle cable bracket was out. Tossed a new one in there. It's def better. Now the cars floating idle is back to the way it used to be. In neutral while rolling it hangs at 1100. When I come to a stop, after 20 seconds of idling at 1100 is drops down to a normal idle. Idk what it would be. Brand new vac lines, no intake vac leaks. Anything guys? Occasionally it will drive between 500 and 1000 while rolling. I need to get my idle down, I'm going to get a smaller pulley and I need the car to run right, I'm getting horrible gas mileage idling like this with my afrs in the tens.

No codes? Are you positive you have no vacuum leaks?

[flattusmaximus78]

No codes. I stopped using the colorful vac lines on the passenger side of the car. I replaced the fpr vac line, blocked off egr, I have one line going to my bypass of the intake mani, and the other vac port on the back of the mani is blocked. Vacuum tree is untouched stock minus me blocking off cruise control. My car makes about -14-16 vacuum with the fcam.

[flattusmaximus78]

My pedal is notchy again, idk what it would be. And what about the screw on the cable bracket. The 3rd one, not the two mounting bolts.

Idle is floating still. would it even be worth doing the base idle reset since i have an 03 cobra maf on the car?

Ohh and my tunes pretty lean and is starving plugs.... popping a little through thei ntake. Yay there goes a set of plugs. Retuned soon I hope.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 No codes. I stopped using the colorful vac lines on the passenger side of the car. I replaced the fpr vac line, blocked off egr, I have one line going to my bypass of the intake mani, and the other vac port on the back of the mani is blocked. Vacuum tree is untouched stock minus me blocking off cruise control. My car makes about -14-16 vacuum with the fcam.

How about a vacuum leak at the mating surfaces of the upper and/or lower intake?

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 My pedal is notchy again, idk what it would be. And what about the screw on the cable bracket. The 3rd one, not the two mounting bolts. Idle is floating still. would it even be worth doing the base idle reset since i have an 03 cobra maf on the car? Ohh and my tunes pretty lean and is starving plugs.... popping a little through thei ntake. Yay there goes a set of plugs. Retuned soon I hope.

03 Cobra mass air? What injectors do you have? Have you talked to others running an 03 Cobra on a fox body? Are they even compatible? Did you try turning the throttle set screw in a bit?

[flattusmaximus78]

Ohh yes, it's been done many a time. It's justl ike urnning a lightning maf. I have 42lbers in there and its dyno tuned. My tune went really rich so I had my tuner make adjustments but he didn't make them on the dyno, just took a bunch of fuel out and I kept and eye on the wideband, but it proved to be to lean, even under normal driving conditions. If I'm to low in 2nd gear the guages spikes on the lean side and occasionally pops through the intake from no fuel.

I have done the spray test on the upper to lower intake manifold. Shes solid. New iac and tps on the car. I set my voltage on the tps before replacing vac lines, but didn't get a vac guage on the car until after. If I had a vac leak and fixedi t, would more air affect the voltage

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 Ohh yes, it's been done many a time. It's justl ike urnning a lightning maf. I have 42lbers in there and its dyno tuned. My tune went really rich so I had my tuner make adjustments but he didn't make them on the dyno, just took a bunch of fuel out and I kept and eye on the wideband, but it proved to be to lean, even under normal driving conditions. If I'm to low in 2nd gear the guages spikes on the lean side and occasionally pops through the intake from no fuel. I have done the spray test on the upper to lower intake manifold. Shes solid. New iac and tps on the car. I set my voltage on the tps before replacing vac lines, but didn't get a vac guage on the car until after. If I had a vac leak and fixedi t, would more air affect the voltage

I'm assuming you have a chip or a piggyback system? When did the problem start?

[flattusmaximus78]

Originally Posted by Darrell I'm assuming you have a chip or a piggyback system? When did the problem start?

Chip. Well when I bought the car a year ago I had the stock motor in. Bought a new motor that head a cam, downs intake, and e7s. I tore it down to re gasket it. I put in an fcam, gt40ps and a cobra intake. The new motor came with a 76mm throttle body, and I kept the old throttle cable bracket off the car. When I car the car running finally and sorted out all the bugs, it started then. I put the tps and iac off my old motor and it still idled the same. Eventually it just kinda went away on its own. I put the blower on and started it up for the first time, and drove like normal. Once it was on the dyno I ran vacuum to the bypass valve and it seemed like it all came back.

The car felt like it was driving itselft almost. I blocked off c/s on the vac tree and it felt better alot, but still the way its idleing it pours fuel in when it hits 1200 and I'm getting like 110 miles to a tank.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 Chip. Well when I bought the car a year ago I had the stock motor in. Bought a new motor that head a cam, downs intake, and e7s. I tore it down to re gasket it. I put in an fcam, gt40ps and a cobra intake. The new motor came with a 76mm throttle body, and I kept the old throttle cable bracket off the car. When I car the car running finally and sorted out all the bugs, it started then. I put the tps and iac off my old motor and it still idled the same. Eventually it just kinda went away on its own. I put the blower on and started it up for the first time, and drove like normal. Once it was on the dyno I ran vacuum to the bypass valve and it seemed like it all came back. The car felt like it was driving itselft almost. I blocked off c/s on the vac tree and it felt better alot, but still the way its idleing it pours fuel in when it hits 1200 and I'm getting like 110 miles to a tank.

I don't know if I have a solution for you but I do have some things for you to try. Tap on the mass air sensor when the car is running and see if the idle changes. Where is the mass air mounted? Is the bypass valve hooked up correctly? Does it dump the air back in between the blower and mass air meter? Do you have another throttle body you can try?

[flattusmaximus78]

The mad is mounted in the firewall. I'm running a powerpipe so off the blower there is a 90 degree elbow going straight to the fender. I will def try the tapping thing. Theres a bypass welded on the discharged tube recirculating back into the power pipe, this gets vacuum from the intake, and thats seems 100% correct. I have the stock tb though.... thats about it. Is it to small just for this trouble shooting?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 The mad is mounted in the firewall. I'm running a powerpipe so off the blower there is a 90 degree elbow going straight to the fender. I will def try the tapping thing. Theres a bypass welded on the discharged tube recirculating back into the power pipe, this gets vacuum from the intake, and thats seems 100% correct. I have the stock tb though.... thats about it. Is it to small just for this trouble shooting?

Is it recirculating back between the MAF and the blower? A stock throttle body will work. That help help you rule out the throttle body that's on the car now.