'98 Explorer heads and intake.

TN.Frank · April 14th, 2009, 05:16 PM

Sweet. This will save me a lot of cash. All that I'll need is the EGR plate(blocked off of course) a new 65mm TB, a 75mm MAF and I might try to use my old injectors if I can clean em' up. I"ll re-tape the injector wiring harness so it'll look better and clean up the stock fuel rails too while I'm at it. I may even yank the headers out, scrub em' up a bit and paint em' with some ceramic header paint to make em' look better. Of course I'll get new high pressure fuel line for both tubes and the crossover tube on the rails. Going at it as a "budget build" I think I can bring it in for well under $1K. I'm also going to try to fix the driver's seat where the inside back is broken since they look like they're in pretty good shape except for that issue.

TN.Frank · April 14th, 2009, 05:18 PM

Originally Posted by 91Project

If your going to spend the money making air flow better why would you want to stick with the factory headers?

Same reason I'm sticking with the factory cam, because it works ok for what I want to do. The ONLY reason I'm swapping out heads in the first place is to stop my ol' heap from smoking so much on start up. Figure I might as well get a better set then try and buy a stock set of E7's for the same money. Maybe someday I'll get a different set of headers and even a cam but for now they'll be good enough.

93hatch · April 14th, 2009, 05:22 PM

just use the stock injectors, maf, and tb

91Project · April 14th, 2009, 05:23 PM

ok, first off... Dont paint your headers, it wont last long and will be a giant pain in your ass. Secondly, Headers arent bad ( pricewise ). If your spending this money why not at least get a set of equal lengths, you can get a nice used set for around $150-$170. Not only will they let those parts your putting on do their job better but that will make your car sound better as well. What do you mean by "retape" your injector harness? also, from what your building there is no point in replacing the cross over on the fuel rails as they will work fine for what you have ( unless of coarse there is something wrong with them ). Please dont take this the wrong way, but in my honest opinion you are spending money in all the wrong areas... Whats your mod list as of now?

TN.Frank · April 14th, 2009, 06:32 PM

By "re-tape" I mean take all the old, nasty looking black tape off of the harness and put new, fresh tape on it so it'll look better. I've done it to other cars where the wiring harness was falling apart because of old tape and it cleaned up and looked pretty nice afterwards.
Mod list looks like this so far.
GP40p heads, re-ferb as needed, new valve stem seals, 3 angle valve job, deck .030" and clean em' up. Explorer(aka Cobra) intake and plenum, new 65mm TB, new 65mm EGR plate blocked off,new 75mm MAF, samm CAI that's on the car, clean up injectors, rails and anything else that'll need it. Then I'll install new plugs and wires, cap and rotor and performance TFI mod and coil. That should get the ol' heap running pretty decent for now.
I've still got to do shocks/struts, passenger side tie rod end, front sway bar mounts, power steering pump with hoses and repack the wheel bearings with new inner seals. Then I'll get it lined up so it'll drive straight,LOL. That's just the outside stuff, inside I've got to get the driver's seat fixed, get the parts for the glass on the sunroof, get the outer seal for the sunroof, put in the head liner and a bunch of other stuff which is too much to list. Like I've said, this car is a real heap, it'll be practically new by the time I'm done replacing or fixing the parts and other stuff that's bad. I've got a real project ahead.

1slo5.0 · April 14th, 2009, 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by TN.Frank

Same reason I'm sticking with the factory cam, because it works ok for what I want to do. The ONLY reason I'm swapping out heads in the first place is to stop my ol' heap from smoking so much on start up. Figure I might as well get a better set then try and buy a stock set of E7's for the same money. Maybe someday I'll get a different set of headers and even a cam but for now they'll be good enough.

I'd get a set of long tube headers before I'd by a larger throttle body. Don't waste your money on aftermarket shorty headers because the gains are minimal at best on a mild engine. Stick with full length headers if you are going to buy a set.

TN.Frank · April 14th, 2009, 07:32 PM

I just mainly want to get the engine to run without smoking for the first couple miniutes that it's started up. Every thing else is gravy,LOL.

TN.Frank · April 14th, 2009, 11:55 PM

So there's no other advice or coments? The headers I have will bolt up, I can get the other parts new so they'll be no issues. Is that about it?

April 14th, 2009, 05:22 PM	#23
93hatch Banned 1992 Lx 11.39@119.24 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Az Posts: 11,665 iTrader: 0 reviews	just use the stock injectors, maf, and tb __________________ [QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]

April 14th, 2009, 05:23 PM	#24
91Project Regular 1991 Mustang GT Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 144 iTrader: 0 reviews	ok, first off... Dont paint your headers, it wont last long and will be a giant pain in your ass. Secondly, Headers arent bad ( pricewise ). If your spending this money why not at least get a set of equal lengths, you can get a nice used set for around $150-$170. Not only will they let those parts your putting on do their job better but that will make your car sound better as well. What do you mean by "retape" your injector harness? also, from what your building there is no point in replacing the cross over on the fuel rails as they will work fine for what you have ( unless of coarse there is something wrong with them ). Please dont take this the wrong way, but in my honest opinion you are spending money in all the wrong areas... Whats your mod list as of now? __________________ AutoMeter C2 Nitrous Guage FS PM for details

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April 14th, 2009, 05:16 PM	#21
TN.Frank Regular 1989 Mustang GT 5.0L H.O. Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Crossville, TN. U.S.A. Posts: 183 iTrader: 0 reviews	Sweet. This will save me a lot of cash. All that I'll need is the EGR plate(blocked off of course) a new 65mm TB, a 75mm MAF and I might try to use my old injectors if I can clean em' up. I"ll re-tape the injector wiring harness so it'll look better and clean up the stock fuel rails too while I'm at it. I may even yank the headers out, scrub em' up a bit and paint em' with some ceramic header paint to make em' look better. Of course I'll get new high pressure fuel line for both tubes and the crossover tube on the rails. Going at it as a "budget build" I think I can bring it in for well under $1K. I'm also going to try to fix the driver's seat where the inside back is broken since they look like they're in pretty good shape except for that issue.

April 14th, 2009, 06:32 PM	#25
TN.Frank Regular 1989 Mustang GT 5.0L H.O. Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Crossville, TN. U.S.A. Posts: 183 iTrader: 0 reviews	By "re-tape" I mean take all the old, nasty looking black tape off of the harness and put new, fresh tape on it so it'll look better. I've done it to other cars where the wiring harness was falling apart because of old tape and it cleaned up and looked pretty nice afterwards. Mod list looks like this so far. GP40p heads, re-ferb as needed, new valve stem seals, 3 angle valve job, deck .030" and clean em' up. Explorer(aka Cobra) intake and plenum, new 65mm TB, new 65mm EGR plate blocked off,new 75mm MAF, samm CAI that's on the car, clean up injectors, rails and anything else that'll need it. Then I'll install new plugs and wires, cap and rotor and performance TFI mod and coil. That should get the ol' heap running pretty decent for now. I've still got to do shocks/struts, passenger side tie rod end, front sway bar mounts, power steering pump with hoses and repack the wheel bearings with new inner seals. Then I'll get it lined up so it'll drive straight,LOL. That's just the outside stuff, inside I've got to get the driver's seat fixed, get the parts for the glass on the sunroof, get the outer seal for the sunroof, put in the head liner and a bunch of other stuff which is too much to list. Like I've said, this car is a real heap, it'll be practically new by the time I'm done replacing or fixing the parts and other stuff that's bad. I've got a real project ahead.

April 14th, 2009, 07:32 PM	#27
TN.Frank Regular 1989 Mustang GT 5.0L H.O. Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Crossville, TN. U.S.A. Posts: 183 iTrader: 0 reviews	I just mainly want to get the engine to run without smoking for the first couple miniutes that it's started up. Every thing else is gravy,LOL.

April 14th, 2009, 11:55 PM	#28
TN.Frank Regular 1989 Mustang GT 5.0L H.O. Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Crossville, TN. U.S.A. Posts: 183 iTrader: 0 reviews	So there's no other advice or coments? The headers I have will bolt up, I can get the other parts new so they'll be no issues. Is that about it?

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