[TN.Frank]

After the problems I've ran into today trying to put a manual rack in place of my power steering rack I think I'd rather go with a re-worked set of E7's so I'll be damn sure everything will bolt up to em'. Is there anyone making a reasonable set of E7's that might have a mild port job and larger valve then stock? I'd like to get more performance then my stock set are giving me without the expense or "risk" of getting into something different. Also, would a Cobra/Explorer intake work with E7's? I'd still like to go 65mmTB and 73mm MAF with my stock 19# injectors even if it's only good for a few HP. What are ya'll thoughts on this, what would the logical way be to go at it. Thanks.

[e3sean]

what was the problem with the manual rack? what rack was it?

[TN.Frank]

Originally Posted by e3sean what was the problem with the manual rack? what rack was it?

It was one of our Atsco brands from AutoZone and it's not the problem, the coupler on the rag joint is the problem. The one between a manual rack and a power rack are different(wish I'd have known that a few days ago.) so I need to get a part to make it work. Since this car is my daily driver I have to do work on my days off and I really need it to go as smoothly as possible. No "supprises" like I got with the manual rack conversion.

[flattusmaximus78]

What? Everything is the same EVERYTHING. You just buy 302 head gasketsfor whatever year gt you have and 302 manifold to head gaskets for whatever year your gt is. If you want get head studsor new head bolts, but your just buying and replacing 302 parts. It's cake. You wont even notice a difference in the head looking at them when installing them.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank After the problems I've ran into today trying to put a manual rack in place of my power steering rack I think I'd rather go with a re-worked set of E7's so I'll be damn sure everything will bolt up to em'. Is there anyone making a reasonable set of E7's that might have a mild port job and larger valve then stock? I'd like to get more performance then my stock set are giving me without the expense or "risk" of getting into something different. Also, would a Cobra/Explorer intake work with E7's? I'd still like to go 65mmTB and 73mm MAF with my stock 19# injectors even if it's only good for a few HP. What are ya'll thoughts on this, what would the logical way be to go at it. Thanks.

Most "worked" sets of E7s will still lose to a set of Ps and they cost the same or more. Don't waste your time. Do the Ps or don't do anything. The only issue will be headers but if I remember correctly you have stock headers and they will work.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank It was one of our Atsco brands from AutoZone and it's not the problem, the coupler on the rag joint is the problem. The one between a manual rack and a power rack are different(wish I'd have known that a few days ago.) so I need to get a part to make it work. Since this car is my daily driver I have to do work on my days off and I really need it to go as smoothly as possible. No "supprises" like I got with the manual rack conversion.

If you consider a rag joint a problem then you have a problem. That is a very minor issue. If you are looking to for no suprises, then stop working on the car right now because this hobby isn't for you. Problems are common in this hobby. Problems are common in any type of repair work, not just performance oriented work.

[93mustank]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank After the problems I've ran into today trying to put a manual rack in place of my power steering rack I think I'd rather go with a re-worked set of E7's so I'll be damn sure everything will bolt up to em'. Is there anyone making a reasonable set of E7's that might have a mild port job and larger valve then stock? I'd like to get more performance then my stock set are giving me without the expense or "risk" of getting into something different. Also, would a Cobra/Explorer intake work with E7's? I'd still like to go 65mmTB and 73mm MAF with my stock 19# injectors even if it's only good for a few HP. What are ya'll thoughts on this, what would the logical way be to go at it. Thanks.

Sounds like your not good at turning a wrench on listening to great advice....

Its you car...Go waste money and run some 15's

[TN.Frank]

Oh my frickin' God. If ya'll only knew how many cars I've modded you'd shut up and stop with the " Sounds like your not good at turning a wrench on listening to great advice" shit. Back in the day is wasn't an issue, no big deal if I didn't get up and running in a few days but now it's different. This is my DAILY DRIVER. I've got to be able to get in and get out with zero issues. It's just that simple. I know my way around a car, don't worry your pretty little heads about that. I just want stuff that'll be a "bolt on" deal without having to mod or buy or tweak anything.
If GT40p heads will work with stock headers and be "bolt on" then fine, I'll go with them. I want as many ponies out of this hunk of junk as I can get and I can get '98 Explorer heads for $75 each so that's not a problem. Same deal with the intake, '98 Explorer, $50 bucks, suppose to be the same as a Cobra intake. If your SURE that it'll work then I'll go that way but please stop thinking that I don't know my way around a car or engine because that's just plain B.S., I know plenty about cars, engines and modding em'. I just don't want to run into any more 'supprises' like I got with the manual steering mod after some of ya'll said "Sure, it'a a total bolt on, easy as cake." NOT. Now let's get back on topic and see what I can do to get this POS making some decent HP numbers.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank Oh my frickin' God. If ya'll only knew how many cars I've modded you'd shut up and stop with the " Sounds like your not good at turning a wrench on listening to great advice" shit. Back in the day is wasn't an issue, no big deal if I didn't get up and running in a few days but now it's different. This is my DAILY DRIVER. I've got to be able to get in and get out with zero issues. It's just that simple. I know my way around a car, don't worry your pretty little heads about that. I just want stuff that'll be a "bolt on" deal without having to mod or buy or tweak anything. If GT40p heads will work with stock headers and be "bolt on" then fine, I'll go with them. I want as many ponies out of this hunk of junk as I can get and I can get '98 Explorer heads for $75 each so that's not a problem. Same deal with the intake, '98 Explorer, $50 bucks, suppose to be the same as a Cobra intake. If your SURE that it'll work then I'll go that way but please stop thinking that I don't know my way around a car or engine because that's just plain B.S., I know plenty about cars, engines and modding em'. I just don't want to run into any more 'supprises' like I got with the manual steering mod after some of ya'll said "Sure, it'a a total bolt on, easy as cake." NOT. Now let's get back on topic and see what I can do to get this POS making some decent HP numbers.

We are not "thinking" that you don't know your way around cars, you are portraying yourself as a guy who doesn't know his way around cars. A simple thing like a rag joint is a major problem for you. You also pitched a fit in another thread about EFI on a fox body which is about as basic of a fuel delivery system as you can get. Nobody is insulting you in anyway but like I said earlier, if you want something that will not give you any troubles then buy a Grand Prix or a Taurus for a daily driver. When you modify a car in anyway you are going to run into problems.

[jessemachone]

Originally Posted by Darrell We are not "thinking" that you don't know your way around cars, you are portraying yourself as a guy who doesn't know his way around cars. A simple thing like a rag joint is a major problem for you. You also pitched a fit in another thread about EFI on a fox body which is about as basic of a fuel delivery system as you can get. Nobody is insulting you in anyway but like I said earlier, if you want something that will not give you any troubles then buy a Grand Prix or a Taurus for a daily driver. When you modify a car in anyway you are going to run into problems.

Just make sure it isn't a Taurus SHO - those things will make you crazy !!! LOL!!!

[Chris951]

You bought a 20 year old mustang fox body and you're complaining about "surprises"? Weird... My 88 is my daily driver and I have had my share of surprises. But I know to expect them because of its age and the fact that people love to trash them.

As for the manual rack, research before you jump into something so there will be no more of these surprises.

[93mustank]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank I just want stuff that'll be a "bolt on" deal without having to mod or buy or tweak anything.

This one line tells me you do not have a lot of experience modding cars....

[TN.Frank]

You're saying that because I want a part that'll simply bolt on and work that means I don't have a lot of expirence working on cars, Whatever dude. Practically every part I ever bought for one of the three VW Bugs that I modded fit right the first time without any modding at all. All the parts I bought for my '66 'Stang fit right and worked the first time. Everything I bolted onto my '72 Cutlass, '73 Buick Century and even my '05 Neon bolted right up and worked fine.
As for doing "research" on adding the manual rack, check my posts. I'm sure you'll find one where I ask ya'll if adding a manual was a direct bolt up and was given the answer "Yes, it is." by ya'll. I did my homework, seems like some of ya'll dropped the ball on this one by not telling me about a little part that I'd need to make it work.
It's funny how much ya'll think you know about me from a few posts here on a forum. If you only knew how much wrench time I've spent over my almost 48 years working on cars and P/U trucks you'd not be so fast to judge me as not being very good with a wrench.
The simple fact is that a rag joint IS a Major deal when it stops me from getting my daily driver back on the road so I can go to work. The way it stands my youngest grandson is in the Hospital so my daughter is with him for the next week. That frees up her car for my wife to use to go to work and lets me use her mini-van until my ol' heap is back up and running. If it wasn't for that then I'd have to miss work and get docked points for not being there, that's a MAJOR deal.

[M L Struck]

You just need to go back and read some of the post you have put up, you do come across as pretty clueless about cars at times. I just wouldn't rip into my dd thursday night and expect to drive it to work Friday morning.

The deal with E7 vs GT40 with a little bit of reading on this forum is a no brainer.As for the manual rack these cars (late 80's) never came with one and most guys go with after market like Flaming River not factory replacement from a 79 Fairmont. I haven't done to many mod's that I didn't have send somebody to the parts store to pick up something I need.

If you read your post and don't see what some of us are telling you maybe the VW Bug is a better car for you

[TN.Frank]

I'd love to have a nice, clean 70-72 VW Bug. I could drop a 2332cc into it with dual 48 IDF Webers and smoke most of ya'll at the 1/8th mile. Heck, I'd probably get you on the 1/4 mile too. Those things are just wicked fast and can easily lay down a mid-11 sec. 1/4 mile in the 110mph range. Unfortunatly, most of the Bugs in my area have terminal rust so I guess I'm back to where I'm at.

[flattusmaximus78]

I could drop a 7grand crate engine in and kill everything on here. But neither you or I will. But:

I'll take that challenge anyday... heck my car only makes 350 on the dyno... Just a little confidence builder right there for you.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by M L Struck You just need to go back and read some of the post you have put up, you do come across as pretty clueless about cars at times. I just wouldn't rip into my dd thursday night and expect to drive it to work Friday morning. The deal with E7 vs GT40 with a little bit of reading on this forum is a no brainer.As for the manual rack these cars (late 80's) never came with one and most guys go with after market like Flaming River not factory replacement from a 79 Fairmont. I haven't done to many mod's that I didn't have send somebody to the parts store to pick up something I need. If you read your post and don't see what some of us are telling you maybe the VW Bug is a better car for you

+1

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank I'd love to have a nice, clean 70-72 VW Bug. I could drop a 2332cc into it with dual 48 IDF Webers and smoke most of ya'll at the 1/8th mile. Heck, I'd probably get you on the 1/4 mile too. Those things are just wicked fast and can easily lay down a mid-11 sec. 1/4 mile in the 110mph range. Unfortunatly, most of the Bugs in my area have terminal rust so I guess I'm back to where I'm at.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by TN.Frank I'd love to have a nice, clean 70-72 VW Bug. I could drop a 2332cc into it with dual 48 IDF Webers and smoke most of ya'll at the 1/8th mile. Heck, I'd probably get you on the 1/4 mile too. Those things are just wicked fast and can easily lay down a mid-11 sec. 1/4 mile in the 110mph range. Unfortunatly, most of the Bugs in my area have terminal rust so I guess I'm back to where I'm at.

I allways wanted to build one cause 14 second wheelies are cool. ive seen a couple 15 sec bugs pop the tires up just for a second tho.

[M L Struck]

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY I allways wanted to build one cause 14 second wheelies are cool. ive seen a couple 15 sec bugs pop the tires up just for a second tho.

pull off the front shocks get it bouncing and you have 20 second car doing a wheelie.

He might be getting Vee Wee and Porsche confused