[ztweny8]

1. Previous owner put in an optima battery, the really nice ones. But its seems to be too tall because its hitting the hood slightly with the negative terminal. Are 5.0's supposed to get shorter batteries with side posts? Hood is 3 inch cowl fiberglass btw, and it wont align right because the battery is to tall.


2. Having some charging problems. I had the battery checked and it passed the test. So its not that. If I went outside right now and tried to start it, it wouldn't have any battery power, I would boost it, it would run, and I would be able to turn it off for a few minutes and start it back up. But say I didnt touch it overnight, and not until 5pm the next day, it will be dead again, even after running it for an hour the previous day. When its running the battery gauge is near 0, and if you turn on lights/heat etc. it dips even lower. But also when driving, the battery gauge goes up when I rev it or drive it, but as soon as its back at idle goes right back down. I assume this is a problem with the alternator right? Obviously i've checked and nothing is staying on when I turn it off, and it ran fine all last year, until the near the end of the season and it started doing this. And I havent changed anything.


3. Once I reposition or do something to the battery, I want to align the hood and install the hood pins I bought. How exactly do you go about doing this? I thought they would bolt in where the factory spring bumper things are on each end, but I don't think that's how it works. Should I just drill holes in the core support? Want to make sure.


4. I have racing seats in the front, I didnt install them, previous owner did. The main bolt on the driver seat nearest the clutch pedal broke or fell out or something. How do I get the seat off the tracks to be able to access that?


5. Whats a good tranny fluid for my T5?


I'm going to try and fix all these problems tomorrow (saturday), so quick answers would be appreciated. I can do all this easy, I just want to confirm what i'm thinking and make it all go smoother. Thanks

[mustangsoldier]

as far as #2 this is a familiar problem lol. the stock 75amp alternator blows goats for quarters... upgrade to a 3G alternator, will definetly solve any charging issues you have 87-93 ALTERNATOR, 5.0, 130 AMP MUSTANG very easy install, splice a couple wires and grind down the bracket a little

[1slo5.0]

You have a draw in your system which is why your battery goes dead over night. Pull your negative battery cable. Clip a test light to the negative battery cable and then touch the test light to the negative battery post. If it lights up, you have a current draw. Start pulling fuses, one at a time until the light goes out. Make sure when you are doing this test you have the key turned off and have things that draw power like dome lights, underhood lights, etc. turned off.

[mustangsoldier]

lol yea do that 1st

[Chris951]

#5 any dex/merc ATF fluid will work. No need to get the expensive stuff. I just got some cheap castrol stuff and it's fine after a few thousand miles.

[ztweny8]

Originally Posted by Darrell You have a draw in your system which is why your battery goes dead over night. Pull your negative battery cable. Clip a test light to the negative battery cable and then touch the test light to the negative battery post. If it lights up, you have a current draw. Start pulling fuses, one at a time until the light goes out. Make sure when you are doing this test you have the key turned off and have things that draw power like dome lights, underhood lights, etc. turned off.

Got the alternator checked and it passed. So it seems what your saying is the cause (I thought it was too, but was hoping it was just an easy alternator swap). So I bought a digital multi-meter. What would I set the multimeter to, to test for current like you explained?

[ztweny8]

I'm just wondering what could be draining so much power. If I boost it, it will run, but the battery gauge will be at the bottom. If I rev it, or drive, it will go up, but then right back down when it returns to idle, copying what the tachometer is doing. Meaning that the alternator needs to spin faster just to power whatever is happening right? I turned it off for 10-15 when I got gas, and it started ok. Then I parked it at home, and tried to start it the next day around 5, and it just made the buzzing noise a car makes when theirs not enough battery power. No lights, gauges, stereo stuff is staying on from what I can see.

Whats the most likely culprit? Where should I start?

[1slo5.0]

Are you fucking deaf? I told you what is causing the problem and how to test for the culprit. It is a draw which could be anything from a light stuck on to a bad battery. Checking the alternator was a waste of your time. But its your car, your time and your money so do whatever you want with it.


Sorry to sound like an asshole but it really pisses me off when people ask for advice and then don't listen to the advice that they are given. Have a nice day.

[ztweny8]

Originally Posted by Darrell Are you fucking deaf? I told you what is causing the problem and how to test for the culprit. It is a draw which could be anything from a light stuck on to a bad battery. Checking the alternator was a waste of your time. But its your car, your time and your money so do whatever you want with it. Sorry to sound like an asshole but it really pisses me off when people ask for advice and then don't listen to the advice that they are given. Have a nice day.

I just wanted to rule the thing out alright. Alot easier than chasing down wires. I knew you were probably right, but its gonna be alot harder to diagnose this then it would have been to swap an alternator, so I thought I would get that out of the way. I thought it might only be working 40% or something.

Anyways. I got the alternator back in, and I'm going to do what you told me too. I bought a multi-meter while I was out, but I cant find any good info on how to use it. To test for draws like you said, what setting do I put the thing on? I think I have it on the right one, and when I test negative cable --> negative battery post, it makes noise and reads "547" or something like that.

When using the multimeter to do this, where do the black and red multi-meter prongs go? Like does red go to the battery post, or the cable?

I know i'm asking dumb questions but I dont know shit about this electrical bullshit.

[Chris951]

Coulda just got a 12v test light.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by ztweny8 I just wanted to rule the thing out alright. Alot easier than chasing down wires. I knew you were probably right, but its gonna be alot harder to diagnose this then it would have been to swap an alternator, so I thought I would get that out of the way. I thought it might only be working 40% or something. Anyways. I got the alternator back in, and I'm going to do what you told me too. I bought a multi-meter while I was out, but I cant find any good info on how to use it. To test for draws like you said, what setting do I put the thing on? I think I have it on the right one, and when I test negative cable --> negative battery post, it makes noise and reads "547" or something like that. When using the multimeter to do this, where do the black and red multi-meter prongs go? Like does red go to the battery post, or the cable? I know i'm asking dumb questions but I dont know shit about this electrical bullshit.

The alternator was not the problem, I told you that in my original post. You have an electrical draw. I've never used a multimeter for this test, I've always used a test light...hence the reason I said use a test light. I would imagine that any voltage you see on the multimeter when hooked between the negative battery cable and negative post will indicate a draw. Take the negative battery cable off. Hook one probe to the negative cable and one probe to the negative post. Make sure the multimeter is on V to check voltage obviously. Again, I've never done it with a mulitmeter so I'm kind of shooting in the dark here but its electrical and fairly simple so I think I'm on the right path...

[ztweny8]

So I just went and tested with the multi-meter. I finally found a good guide on the net how to use it.

When set on DC 10A, it reads 0.04 between the negative cable and negative terminal. If I open the driver door, which would make the car want to draw current for the interior lights, correct? With the door open it reads 0.67. So wouldn't 0.04 be a normal parasitic draw (stereo/computer staying on all the time to keep settings)?

Leaving the interior lights on would probably take around 6 hours approximately to drain the battery. And it would be drawing 0.67. So the draw i'm reading, 0.04 dosent seem to be enough to be causing this. Right? Because from what i've read its normal to have a small amount to keep certain things on standby.

Are their any other tests I can perform?

Could it be the battery? That was the first thing I tested last year, and it checked out O K, but after yesterdays alternator testing adventure, I dont know how much I trust these dumb fuckers working at these auto parts stores.

With the little I know about electrical systems it seems like their is a big main wire not doing its job. The alternator works, for one because I got it tested, and for 2 because when I boost it to get it running the battery gauge rises when the engine is revved above idle. The battery would appear to be working because I got it tested, and for it to turn on after 15 minutes it would need to be holding some charge. It seems like one of the main wires must be "releasing" power rapidly. So, where are the main electrical "arteries"? And how can I test them to see if their releasing charge?

[Chris951]

Well, you should really just go buy a test light like darrell said. They're like $10 at walmart. Do what darrell said and just start pulling fuses while connected to the negative cable and post and you will see where the draw is coming from. It's really simple and you seem to be making it more complicated than it is.

[ztweny8]

Originally Posted by Chris951 Well, you should really just go buy a test light like darrell said. They're like $10 at walmart. Do what darrell said and just start pulling fuses while connected to the negative cable and post and you will see where the draw is coming from. It's really simple and you seem to be making it more complicated than it is.

What more is the test light going to tell me than a multi-meter? I know there is a draw, but theirs always going to be a small draw when you think about it, with the stereo and cpu needing some standby power.

I'm thankful for your help, but I don't see how a multi-meter when used properly, is not as useful as a test light. Wouldn't the test light always light up since their is always going to be a small amount of draw?

[Chris951]

True but a test light would be easier. Obviously the volt meter isn't working so far for you. The test light would indicate if you have a draw, period. Then you can start pulling fuses until it goes out so you know where your draw is exactly coming from so you can fix it.

[ryans88gt]

The draw level you have 40mA (assuming you have everything hooked up, alternator etc...) is not enough to kill the battery unless the battery is malfunctioning and has an internal short. That draw is a normal level. Have your battery tested. Maybe get a cheap new battery that fits.

Also, taking the alt in to have it checked is a completely logical thing to do, don't let darrell talk down to you.
When alternator diode packs (rectifier) fail internally, the alternator can become the source of a current draw.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Chris951 True but a test light would be easier. Obviously the volt meter isn't working so far for you. The test light would indicate if you have a draw, period. Then you can start pulling fuses until it goes out so you know where your draw is exactly coming from so you can fix it.

Exactly. If the test light lights up at all there is a draw. Real easy.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt The draw level you have 40mA (assuming you have everything hooked up, alternator etc...) is not enough to kill the battery unless the battery is malfunctioning and has an internal short. That draw is a normal level. Have your battery tested. Maybe get a cheap new battery that fits. Also, taking the alt in to have it checked is a completely logical thing to do, don't let darrell talk down to you. When alternator diode packs (rectifier) fail internally, the alternator can become the source of a current draw.

Logical yes, after you do the easy draw test. A battery test is logical as well but after you do the draw test. Yeah, I get irritated when people ask for advice and then ignore the advice they are given. I earned the asshole name, it wasn't just given to me.

[superbean]

alternator is bum more than likely if not you need to do a amp draw test on the battery..

put the battery in the trunk, that way it can't hit the hood.

And if anyone has said what i said already, then fuck it, im too lazy to read lol

[ztweny8]

Originally Posted by ryans88gt The draw level you have 40mA (assuming you have everything hooked up, alternator etc...) is not enough to kill the battery unless the battery is malfunctioning and has an internal short. That draw is a normal level. Have your battery tested. Maybe get a cheap new battery that fits. Also, taking the alt in to have it checked is a completely logical thing to do, don't let darrell talk down to you. When alternator diode packs (rectifier) fail internally, the alternator can become the source of a current draw.

I think I just may pull a battery out of another vehicle and try it with that, because that is what it points too in my mind. Although I had the battery tested when this problem started, its worth a try.

And that's what I thought the alternator might be doing, that's why I tested it. No harm done Darrell, I'm not the type to take things personally. I deal with way too many assholes at work to be like that haha. And I can see where your coming from.

Originally Posted by superbean alternator is bum more than likely if not you need to do a amp draw test on the battery.. put the battery in the trunk, that way it can't hit the hood. And if anyone has said what i said already, then fuck it, im too lazy to read lol

I was going to relocate the battery, but then I found out IHRA rules (which we run up here) state that you must have a bulkhead when running a relocated battery with a hatch. Atleast thats what I got out of reading it.

But no worries. I took the battery out, noticed the 2 screws connecting it to the inner fender had a little bit of room to adjust up and down and they were all the way up. Turns out the plastic legs on the tray were sitting on top of a wire loom and thats why it would move down the needed half inch. Moved the wires and it all fits now. Gotta love when its that easy.