[95project]

95 gt...so i put on a trick flow track heat upper and lower with a 75 mm summit throttle body, c&l CAI and 76 mm MAF with 30lb FRPP fuel injectors and a msd pro billett distributor and the msd 6al...

The MSD distributor and the factory distributor sat differently in the hole, therefore the location of the cylinder plugs changed also...my question is how do i find out what the number one cylinder is on the distributor cap?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 95project 95 gt...so i put on a trick flow track heat upper and lower with a 75 mm summit throttle body, c&l CAI and 76 mm MAF with 30lb FRPP fuel injectors and a msd pro billett distributor and the msd 6al... The MSD distributor and the factory distributor sat differently in the hole, therefore the location of the cylinder plugs changed also...my question is how do i find out what the number one cylinder is on the distributor cap?

Set number one cylinder to top dead center (compression stroke) and go thru the firing order again. A simple way would have been to leave the wires connected to the old cap, remove it from the old distributor, remove old distributor, install new distributor and then move the wires one at a time to the new cap on the new distributor.

Are the modifications above all that is done to your car or do you have heads, cam, etc as well?

[95project]

no heads, cam yet....that will be next...once i get this figured out everything will be done except cam, heads, and a power adder but the engine will be ready to fully support it. I took a picture of the distributer and where the rotor was pointing before i removed it for reference, but they dont sit the same way...i think i figured it out last night while i was trying to go to sleep.

if i look at where the rotor was pointing when i removed the old distributer and what plug it was firing, i should be able to follow that around the new distributer no matter if it sits different....right?

[95project]

ok...lets assume you walk up to a 95 5.0 with no distributor, cap, or wires and tells you he will give you 1 million to get it running correctly...how would you find the #1 cylinder @ TDC and the corresponding spot for it on the dist cap?

[89LX347]

Originally Posted by 95project ok...lets assume you walk up to a 95 5.0 with no distributor, cap, or wires and tells you he will give you 1 million to get it running correctly...how would you find the #1 cylinder @ TDC and the corresponding spot for it on the dist cap?

call me up and i will come get it running for him. take your no.1 cylinder spark plug out, put your finger over the hole and turn the motor over till you feel it push your thumb off. that will be no.1 TDC (about there). no.1 on the cap USUALLY points toward the back of your motor.

[95project]

ok...so it doesnt really matter where number 1 is on the cap as long as i find TDC of #1 cylinder it would be where the rotor points to right? plug the number 1 plug wire into there and then just follow the right patern around the dist cap. Right??


you in memphis 89lx347?

[93hatch]

5.0 Engine Tech And Specifications

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 95project ok...lets assume you walk up to a 95 5.0 with no distributor, cap, or wires and tells you he will give you 1 million to get it running correctly...how would you find the #1 cylinder @ TDC and the corresponding spot for it on the dist cap?

Real easy. I'd pull the passenger side valve cover and turn the engine over by hand until both valves close and the piston is at TDC. With both valves closed this will be the compression stroke. Then move on to the distributor. Where ever the rotor is pointing is number one. Then wire the rest of the firing order counter clockwise around the distributor.

[superbean]

roll the motor to tdc...

stab the dizzy in and make sure there is clearence for wiring..

wherever the rotor is pointing, that's #1...

Run your firing order in sequence starting from that spot.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by superbean roll the motor to tdc... stab the dizzy in and make sure there is clearence for wiring.. wherever the rotor is pointing, that's #1... Run your firing order in sequence starting from that spot.

Unless its on the exhaust stroke.....

[95project]

ok so i did it as close as i could get by eye without a timing light until tomorrow and the idle is very rough and eventually dies...the 1st few cranks i had some antifreeze running down the back side of where my bbk long tubes and mid pipe connect...but there was no leak where the intake met the heads and block...where the hell could that have been coming from...is there a chance i could have swapped some hoses or something when i had the upper and lower intakes off???? im on the verge of finding someone to make a house call or calling a fu*&% wrecker to get this thing and take it to my mustang people.

By the way, trick flow makes some bolts about imppossible to get to with a torque wrench...cmon....change the mold and make the freggin front and rear bolts easier to access. the guy that missed this issue needs to be tortured...all it would take is another half inch around the outside grooves allowing FULL access to the securing nuts.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 95project ok so i did it as close as i could get by eye without a timing light until tomorrow and the idle is very rough and eventually dies...the 1st few cranks i had some antifreeze running down the back side of where my bbk long tubes and mid pipe connect...but there was no leak where the intake met the heads and block...where the hell could that have been coming from...is there a chance i could have swapped some hoses or something when i had the upper and lower intakes off???? im on the verge of finding someone to make a house call or calling a fu*&% wrecker to get this thing and take it to my mustang people. By the way, trick flow makes some bolts about imppossible to get to with a torque wrench...cmon....change the mold and make the freggin front and rear bolts easier to access. the guy that missed this issue needs to be tortured...all it would take is another half inch around the outside grooves allowing FULL access to the securing nuts.

Sounds like the timing is retarded. Easy fix with a timing light. The coolant is concerning though. Find where it is coming from. Why are you so sure its not coming from the intake? Are your heater hoses tight?

[BEASTstang]

Don't let the little stuff make you want to ged rid of your car !!! Timing is an easy fix ,just as darrell stated.....get some help before you drive it into a wall ( I thought about it a couple of times ,when I was fighting with the gremlins in my car ) Glad I didn't !!!!!

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 95project 95 gt...so i put on a trick flow track heat upper and lower with a 75 mm summit throttle body, c&l CAI and 76 mm MAF with 30lb FRPP fuel injectors and a msd pro billett distributor and the msd 6al... The MSD distributor and the factory distributor sat differently in the hole, therefore the location of the cylinder plugs changed also...my question is how do i find out what the number one cylinder is on the distributor cap?

Off topic, I have to ask why you decided on a 75mm throttle body, 30lb injectors and the MSD parts? Do you have future plans for this car like maybe a power adder or other parts?

[2002BLGT]

is it tuned for the 30lbs injectors ?

[superbean]

maybe it's just me, but it seems like maf calibrated 24lb injectors run alright, but once you get to 30 lb an hour injectors it likes to be rom tuned like that instead of a maf cal

[95project]

i plan on putting the trick flow twisted wedge heads with a stage 2 cam....then down the road a bit a super charger...i was just trying to get all the little stuff out of the way first so that when i get into making serious power, all the parts are ready to support it...hence the 30lbs, MAF, MSD, headers etc.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 95project i plan on putting the trick flow twisted wedge heads with a stage 2 cam....then down the road a bit a super charger...i was just trying to get all the little stuff out of the way first so that when i get into making serious power, all the parts are ready to support it...hence the 30lbs, MAF, MSD, headers etc.

Gotcha. That makes sense.

[95project]

so you guys are saying that there is really nno place for antifreeze to come from unless it is where the block and heads meeet the lower intake, heater hoses, orwater pump and radiator area...its wierd though because it only did it the first few cranks...i dont understand it.....

if you are looking at the firewall, which is the inlet for the heater core...they are side by side....i am assuming that the one on the left is the inlet tube right?

[95project]

who is familiar with the "walk of shame"...its a phrase my fraterinty brothers and I used to use when a "slut" would "sleep over" leave the frat house the next morning and would have to walk by all of us as we cheered...hence the walk of shame...

thats pretty much what i did today(except i didnt sleep with no dude)...i found that i still had a leak somewhere and looked in my oil only to find milkshake like shit not to mention problems getting my timimg right....so i made the call to my mustang shop and they brought a flat bed and came and got it....oh, best part...the ONE person i ddint want to have to fess this up to drives by as i am pushing it onn the trailer.....WOW...time for a bowl.