[flattusmaximus78]

Not bad at all. I'm going back for a retune and hoping to to be 11.5-11.9 at wot across the board. My timing is still at 10 degrees base timing. There was alot to play with my tune, but I had fun with 10psi but now now it's time to go fast. I have shitty stock parts off other cars minus my cam lol. ohhh well it works I guess.

[2Tone93GT]

Originally Posted by nolife Do you have 6 rib or 8 rib? I have an 8 rib with a 3.6 pulley (at least that is what I measured with my calipers) and I don't notice any slippage.

I have a 8 rib. I defiantly notice slippage on the dyno. This thing eliminated most if not all of it. Now I can use my belt dressing for the dyno rollers.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 Not bad at all. I'm going back for a retune and hoping to to be 11.5-11.9 at wot across the board. My timing is still at 10 degrees base timing. There was alot to play with my tune, but I had fun with 10psi but now now it's time to go fast. I have shitty stock parts off other cars minus my cam lol. ohhh well it works I guess.

I wouldn't worry what the A/F on the dyno or the peak horsepower for that matter. I'd be more focused on the average horsepower because that is going to make more of a difference than peak horsepower. Most dyno "tuners" tune for peak horsepower and forget about the rest. Too many people are stuck on the A/F ratios that they "think" are what the car needs and not what the car actually wants. That can make the difference between a car that performs and a car that is a dyno queen.

[baine21225]

Originally Posted by Darrell I wouldn't worry what the A/F on the dyno or the peak horsepower for that matter. I'd be more focused on the average horsepower because that is going to make more of a difference than peak horsepower. Most dyno "tuners" tune for peak horsepower and forget about the rest. Too many people are stuck on the A/F ratios that they "think" are what the car needs and not what the car actually wants. That can make the difference between a car that performs and a car that is a dyno queen.

can you elaborate on what you mean by the A/F? i've been under the assumption that they place it where its at because its safer to run the engine at say an 11.3 at WOT than a 12.7?

[93mustank]

Originally Posted by Darrell I wouldn't worry what the A/F on the dyno or the peak horsepower for that matter. I'd be more focused on the average horsepower because that is going to make more of a difference than peak horsepower. Most dyno "tuners" tune for peak horsepower and forget about the rest. Too many people are stuck on the A/F ratios that they "think" are what the car needs and not what the car actually wants. That can make the difference between a car that performs and a car that is a dyno queen.

Exactly...... I would get the air fuel close than move the timing up until it pings....Then I would start adding more fuel .... If adding fuel doesnt help than back the timing down.

[ryans88gt]

Don't get stuck on a number. Find someone to teach you how to read plugs.

you'll learn more about tuning based on the plugs than any A/F ratio. Once you know what A/F = on the plugs, then you can use A/F number to tune.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by baine21225 can you elaborate on what you mean by the A/F? i've been under the assumption that they place it where its at because its safer to run the engine at say an 11.3 at WOT than a 12.7?

Yes, the A/F needs to be safe. But alot of people think that there are magic numbers for A/F ratios and there is not. The only thing along those lines that is factual is forced induction does like more fuel. Every car is different. We just had this conversation the other day in another thread. If you pick up 13 horsepower across the board and lose some peak horsepower the car will be faster, regardless of what Jimbob the tuner says about the A/F ratio being richer than it "should" be.

[baine21225]

makes sense, thanks for clarifying