[shurb125]

I have a 93 lx conv and just installed a new 70 mm MAF supposedly calibrated for 19# injectors and a set of long tube headers and now the check engine light comes on from time to time and going from 2nd to 3rd at about 3000 rpms it wants to cut back but that is the only time I notice the rpm range and it does it other time sparadicly. The seller told me to unplug the battery for 20 min and let the computer reset and I did that and it still does it. Can someone please tel me what in the world is going on?

The only other mods are a BBK CAI, unerdrive pullies.

[SALIV8]

what fuel pressure are you at? Does your car stall, hesitate, or what? Is idle strong?

[JBIGBOOTSY]

check for engine codes. It should give you a clue.

[shurb125]

Stock pressure i guess? To be hoenest I don't know what the fuel pressure is at I have never messed with it. The idle seems to be different than before a little rougher now, but when you get on the throttle it wants to hesitate like you said or it seems like its cutting back from time to time. I guess the best way to explain it is I have my foot on the gas pedal wide open then all of a sudden it like i let of of it eventhough I didn't.

[shurb125]

As far as the engine codes where and how do I check for them?

[shurb125]

I went ahead and put the stock MAF back on and the check engine light never came on. Can anyone tell me how I can go about utilizing the 70mm MAF. The seller said I could switch the actual sensor from the stock MAF to the new 70mm, does that sound right?

[SALIV8]

Hey shurb. Couple more questions- does the check engine light come on when it hesitates? or just randomly? First guess would be clogged fuel filter. I would check your fuel press., and you need a code reader to retrieve codes. Check for vacuum leaks by your intake- listen for hissing also.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

autozone has cheap code scanners, I think there is a way to do it with a crrcut tester, but I dont know , someone else might. As shitty as it sounds, and its not allways the case, I allways check codes when the check engine light is on. Even if I think I know what the problem is.

[shurb125]

The light comes on randomly, thanks for your help

[JBIGBOOTSY]

A good way to check for vacume leaks is spray carb cleaner around your intake tube, if the engine revs, that is around where your vacume leak is.

[SALIV8]

If I were in your shoes, I would hook up my scanner. I f u don't have an autoscanner, I would do some basic checks first. Obviuosly leave the stock maf installed and see if that's trippin the computer. If the lt still comes on, it could be many different things doin' it. However if you feel hesitation you could probably bet on narrowng the problem, or one of the prob;ems down. Check fuel pressure, first with car off key on. Check for hesitation, and I would change the fuel filter. I dont think it would be a bad injector, check for vacuum leaks and it lso sound like it may be a faulty egr valve or pcv valve. those are easy fixes.

[shurb125]

Thanks for the info. By the way where could I purchase a scanner not looking to get anything outrageous. Thanks again for all the help

[SALIV8]

you could check the check engine light code like bootsy said with an autometer, it would be cheaper than buying an autoscanner. you get a reading from the eec plug to ground i believe. But if you want a decent scanner i have the actron 9145. It gives live engine data as well as codes. Its a fairly inexpensive compared to others. it doesn't come with obd1 adapters, that will cost like 30 bux more. I bought mine through summitracing. It's extremelyhandy, but make sure any you buy are CAN ready and give live engine data.

[wraitherx]

you dont need to purchase a scanner to pull codes, its expensive and there is a cheaper way to do it if you want to know

[mikebert]

There's a paper clip method to checking the codes. You can use a volt meter or count the light flashes on your dash.

Anyways, yes, you can swap the sensors assuming it matches your injectors. You need a specific bit to remove the sensor; a regular star pattern won't work if I remember correctly. I found a "safety bit kit" that had a number of these along with a bunch of other nifty bits.

[wraitherx]

Originally Posted by mikebert There's a paper clip method to checking the codes. You can use a volt meter or count the light flashes on your dash. Anyways, yes, you can swap the sensors assuming it matches your injectors. You need a specific bit to remove the sensor; a regular star pattern won't work if I remember correctly. I found a "safety bit kit" that had a number of these along with a bunch of other nifty bits.

this is the method that is commonly used and then you just watch the CEL flashes on your dash to find out what code you got. If you want the link let me know.

[wraitherx]

http://www.my5oh.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=190

check this out this is what TENGRAM sent me and it saved me money and helped me out alot

[wraitherx]

only thing about it is it says that the connectors are found on the passenger side of the engine compartment while mine was on the drivers side, so sometimes it varies

[shurb125]

Well I had to go buy the special tamper resistant torx bit set for $30 to use it for 2 min, but anyways I went ahead and changed the sensors around and the check engine light never came on. It ran really rough at first then it cleared up so I went ahead and unhooked the battery cable and let it sit for 20 or so minutes and took it down the and it ran worse than ever so I switched the sensors back and put the original back on the check engine light went away and then it started running rough again. So now neither the orginal nor the new 70 mm are running correctly. What the heck is going on, I'm just about frustrated!!!

[SALIV8]

spark plugs good? timing good? distributer good? is your check engine light coming on? you need to get the code