[Lazor05]

I'm looking at doing a 351 swap into my 82 GT. What years would be the best for me to look for for the 351? I found an 86 out of a bronco for $400 without the carb and intake. I know I have to replace the oil pan, headers probably mounts etc. But I also found a roller block for $450 with the stock pistons crank and other parts. I was just wondering if someone could give me some advice on what block to use, I haven't had any luck finding info. thanks

[superbean]

Ideally the older the block, the stronger, but that's not always true.

Try to stay away from smogger blocks unless you plan on rebuilding them..

I would go with the newer roller motor

[86er]

ideal is 69-74, they have the thickest main webbings. You can buy comps roller conversion piece for like 50 bucks or set of retro lifters for 500 bucks.

Dont buy a roller block just because its a roller, plenty of ways around that.

Man i keep seeing people paying all this money for them, I have like 6 I paid 68 dollars for at the local pull a part

[sctravis77]

You can use the dual sump oil pan and pick up from a older crown vic instead of buying $150 ford racing one. I put mine in this week and fit awesome.

[Iwannagofast]

Originally Posted by 86er ideal is 69-74, they have the thickest main webbings. You can buy comps roller conversion piece for like 50 bucks or set of retro lifters for 500 bucks. Dont buy a roller block just because its a roller, plenty of ways around that. Man i keep seeing people paying all this money for them, I have like 6 I paid 68 dollars for at the local pull a part

ok this conversion your tlkin about is the spider piece right....can any block be converted with just using that piece

[Lazor05]

Originally Posted by 86er ideal is 69-74, they have the thickest main webbings. You can buy comps roller conversion piece for like 50 bucks or set of retro lifters for 500 bucks. Dont buy a roller block just because its a roller, plenty of ways around that. Man i keep seeing people paying all this money for them, I have like 6 I paid 68 dollars for at the local pull a part

Dang maybe I should be patient and keep looking then. Thanks for the advice so far guys. I'm trying to do a budget build for this. Its just going to be a DD that will see the track a few times but not much. I know with the 302 gt40's are a popular budget head but would these be too restrictive for a 351? and what intake would you recommend, and cam. haha could you maybe just give me a few ideas of builds. This will be my first build. I would like to keep the power down low. Also is the 351 a really torque motor? And in case your wondering im talking about the 351w, guess I never specified

[Iwannagofast]

im bumping this to get an answer to my question above

[flattusmaximus78]

gt40ps are to restrictive for a 302, let alonea 351.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Lazor05 I'm looking at doing a 351 swap into my 82 GT. What years would be the best for me to look for for the 351? I found an 86 out of a bronco for $400 without the carb and intake. I know I have to replace the oil pan, headers probably mounts etc. But I also found a roller block for $450 with the stock pistons crank and other parts. I was just wondering if someone could give me some advice on what block to use, I haven't had any luck finding info. thanks

It depends on what your goals are. More than likely any 351W block will work. If you want to use a hydraulic roller cam and the factory style roller lifters than get the roller block.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Iwannagofast ok this conversion your tlkin about is the spider piece right....can any block be converted with just using that piece

Doing a "roller conversion" on a non roller block is stupid. Do it right and get the link bar lifters.

[Iwannagofast]

Originally Posted by Darrell Doing a "roller conversion" on a non roller block is stupid. Do it right and get the link bar lifters.

o ok....so any 351w can be made roller by using the retro fit lifters....ill probly do solid roller when i build my 408....unless thats not a good idea.....

i have just heard so many different answers to questions about converting to roller and haveing to use a special cam or bot being able to go roller if it wasnt a roller to begin with....im just need one good straight answer

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Iwannagofast o ok....so any 351w can be made roller by using the retro fit lifters....ill probly do solid roller when i build my 408....unless thats not a good idea..... i have just heard so many different answers to questions about converting to roller and haveing to use a special cam or bot being able to go roller if it wasnt a roller to begin with....im just need one good straight answer

There is nothing to convert. People have been running roller cams long before the factory started putting them engines. The problem is when you try to use factory roller lifters in a non roller block. People think you can just throw any old cam in a non factory roller block with factory roller lifters. You can't, you have to use a small base circle cam or the lifters will be pushed to high in the lifter bores which will affect oiling to the lifters and the top end of the engine. In addition to that, small base circle cams are junk. They are weaker, flex more, transmit more harmonics, stability issues, etc. People like to save money and spend $100 and use some junk used factory roller lifters, spider and dog bones on a non roller block instead of spending $400 on a set of link bar hydraulic roller lifters. I can't see why someone would spend a ton of money on an engine and then pinch pennies on the camshaft and valvetrain which is will make or break your power figures. A shit valve train is going to severely limit your rpm and horsepower potential. The solution to this problem is to run whatever cam you want and hydraulic link bar roller lifters which have been around since they started slicing bread. Another option is to run a solid roller cam.....which is the best option.

[Iwannagofast]

Originally Posted by Darrell There is nothing to convert. People have been running roller cams long before the factory started putting them engines. The problem is when you try to use factory roller lifters in a non roller block. People think you can just throw any old cam in a non factory roller block with factory roller lifters. You can't, you have to use a small base circle cam or the lifters will be pushed to high in the lifter bores which will affect oiling to the lifters and the top end of the engine. In addition to that, small base circle cams are junk. They are weaker, flex more, transmit more harmonics, stability issues, etc. People like to save money and spend $100 and use some junk used factory roller lifters, spider and dog bones on a non roller block instead of spending $400 on a set of link bar hydraulic roller lifters. I can't see why someone would spend a ton of money on an engine and then pinch pennies on the camshaft and valvetrain which is will make or break your power figures. A shit valve train is going to severely limit your rpm and horsepower potential. The solution to this problem is to run whatever cam you want and hydraulic link bar roller lifters which have been around since they started slicing bread. Another option is to run a solid roller cam.....which is the best option.

thank you for finally straightening that out for me....that really explains a lot....yes thats what im gonna do is get the link bar lifters then....no u were saying to use hydraulic roller lifter but then you said that solid is the best....what is the difference between the two...wat are some pros and cons of each and does it affect drive ability because mine will be more of a street strip car

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Iwannagofast thank you for finally straightening that out for me....that really explains a lot....yes thats what im gonna do is get the link bar lifters then....no u were saying to use hydraulic roller lifter but then you said that solid is the best....what is the difference between the two...wat are some pros and cons of each and does it affect drive ability because mine will be more of a street strip car

Hydraulic you can just throw in and never touch again. They are hydraulicly adjusted so to speak with engine oil. Limited camshaft profiles.

Solid requires some maintenance from time to time in the form of adjusting valves. Not nearly as often as people will try to make you think. The people that say you have to "adjust valve lash all the time" have never owned a solid cam. Camshaft profiles can be more radial with a solid lifter and rpm and horsepower potential is greater as well. Valvetrain stability is better with a solid cam.

[laztug]

How good are stock prorted 351w heads?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by laztug How good are stock prorted 351w heads?

Not worth a damn. Most likely won't flow for shit because anybody that is good at porting won't waste the time on a set of stock 351W heads.