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Old May 8th, 2009, 07:02 PM   #1
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need more help, simple questions


first off so awhile back i put in a stat the guy befor me had it running with no stat and since then its heating up well, and im wondering if its to well

if im city driving, and i drive fairly hard, in about 80 degree heat should i be weary of the needle reaching 1 mark away from read, you know how it says normal, there has been a few times were the needle gets just around the "n"

also i can smell coolant, warm coolant after driving arround for about 30 minutes



like i said when driving arround it sits arround here, and the needle will get up to the "n" in normal and stay there for a bit




second question
wtf is this






its around my exhaust and looks like one of the wires touched the exhaust and burned thru ? not sure what it is

dont know shit about mustangs so once again thanks for the quality help
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Old May 8th, 2009, 08:28 PM   #2
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Damn that's getting hot. Mine did that once but the heater bypass hose busted and my coolant sprayed out everywhere. Mine stays between the A and L. And it only gets to the A if I run it hard.
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Old May 8th, 2009, 11:56 PM   #3
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One thing I hate about that temp gauge, how is being near the red line normal? C'mon now...

Mine did the same thing. I replaced the thermostat, fixed the problem.
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Old May 9th, 2009, 12:04 AM   #4
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My car is doing the same thing. After being on the road for 15 minutes or so it may get near the line below were your needle is at. The first hot day of summer. My water started to boil in my overflow. Came out of no were. Hasn't over heated since. But Idk why it's running so hot. I had a sticky t-stat but I fixed it and it's been so cold up until this heat in Florida. Is it my blower?
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Old May 9th, 2009, 12:35 AM   #5
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i have no blower.....

i just changed the stat about 3 weeks ago

thinking of changing it again to a 180

what do you think about this;

eBay Motors: Mishimoto Radiator&Hose&Fan Shroud 86-93 Ford Mustang (item 280332800346 end time May-11-09 07:49:51 PDT)

hope that will help
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Old May 9th, 2009, 12:36 AM   #6
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any help on that busted wire ?
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Old May 9th, 2009, 12:58 AM   #7
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don't know what the wire is. might as well just fix it?
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Old May 9th, 2009, 05:35 PM   #8
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not sure how to fix it dont know or cant see where it goes to pr if it loops together
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Old May 9th, 2009, 05:46 PM   #9
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not sure what the wire is, but mishimoto is decent stuff, ran one on both my old nissan 240s, worked great!
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Old May 9th, 2009, 07:20 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by stfudvs View Post
first off so awhile back i put in a stat the guy befor me had it running with no stat and since then its heating up well, and im wondering if its to well

if im city driving, and i drive fairly hard, in about 80 degree heat should i be weary of the needle reaching 1 mark away from read, you know how it says normal, there has been a few times were the needle gets just around the "n"

also i can smell coolant, warm coolant after driving arround for about 30 minutes

like i said when driving arround it sits arround here, and the needle will get up to the "n" in normal and stay there for a bit




second question
wtf is this

its around my exhaust and looks like one of the wires touched the exhaust and burned thru ? not sure what it is

dont know shit about mustangs so once again thanks for the quality help

What temperature thermostat did you put in? The gauge might not even be accurate anyway. Does the temp gauge fluctuate? If so take the radiator cap off and then start the car. Let it get warmed up and look in the radiator. Do you see any bubbles in the coolant?

That wire is probably for the reverse lights. Its hard to tell in the picture.
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Old May 9th, 2009, 09:19 PM   #11
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Don't trust the stock gauges, get some good after markets, preferably mechanical.

The wire looks like the neutral switch or back up lights connector to your tranny.
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Old May 9th, 2009, 09:29 PM   #12
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ill see if my reverse lights are working, try to snap a better pic of the wire
it is right up by my tranny

the gauge dose fluctuate, and it fluctuates like its working, i will try an aftermarket gauge but im wondering if the radiator is bad when i got the car the fluid in it was almost black, i flushed it out and it ran fine but then i put a stat in it and now its almost overheating

im sure the stat is in the correct way too

i put in a oem stat i think its 195
i am going to go down to a 180 but i dont expect that to do to much


thanks superbean, glad to hear there products are good i wasnt sure just knew that i wanted to pick up a new one and go to electric fan and that ebay deal looks good to me
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Old May 9th, 2009, 09:36 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by stfudvs View Post
ill see if my reverse lights are working, try to snap a better pic of the wire
it is right up by my tranny

the gauge dose fluctuate, and it fluctuates like its working, i will try an aftermarket gauge but im wondering if the radiator is bad when i got the car the fluid in it was almost black, i flushed it out and it ran fine but then i put a stat in it and now its almost overheating

im sure the stat is in the correct way too

i put in a oem stat i think its 195
i am going to go down to a 180 but i dont expect that to do to much


thanks superbean, glad to hear there products are good i wasnt sure just knew that i wanted to pick up a new one and go to electric fan and that ebay deal looks good to me

A fluctuating temp gauge is a sign of a bad head gasket. Check for bubbles in the coolant after the engine is up to operating temperature. Don't bother changing the thermostat. It won't help anything.
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Old May 10th, 2009, 02:14 PM   #14
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that info ^ is very handy to me. It seems like everything (turn signals, bass from subs, turning on and off headlights) will affect my temperature gauge reading. I have run it without a thermostat for quite a while, I'll probably put one back in this winter, if I plan on driving it much. I'll try to get a video done today for it, or tomorrow.

most of this stuff also affects my battery gauge, as well, so is it just a bad connection with that panel?
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Old May 10th, 2009, 04:11 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 95cobra50 View Post
that info ^ is very handy to me. It seems like everything (turn signals, bass from subs, turning on and off headlights) will affect my temperature gauge reading. I have run it without a thermostat for quite a while, I'll probably put one back in this winter, if I plan on driving it much. I'll try to get a video done today for it, or tomorrow.

most of this stuff also affects my battery gauge, as well, so is it just a bad connection with that panel?
You should put a thermostat back in right now......like today. Running without a thermostat does harm, it does no good. If the coolant temp stays below 170° for too long in a drive cycle, open loop is forced. This will force the computer to use more conservative timing which is going to cost you horsepower and also fuel economy. Your oxygen sensors are also useless right now because the engine doesn't get warm enough to go to closed loop so the computer can read them. Catalytic converter damage and increased cylinder wear are other possible side effects of running no thermostat or too cold of a thermostat. Put a 180 degree thermostat in asap.
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Old May 10th, 2009, 05:49 PM   #16
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during the summer, my engine overheats with no thermostat and the fan running... i didn't know that not running a thermostat could hurt an engine.
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Old May 10th, 2009, 06:13 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 95cobra50 View Post
during the summer, my engine overheats with no thermostat and the fan running... i didn't know that not running a thermostat could hurt an engine.
No thermostat could be causing it to over heat as well due to the fact that there is no restriction to hold the water in the block to pull the heat out.
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Old May 10th, 2009, 08:44 PM   #18
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bubbling in the radiator while idleing is a sign of head gasket issues? ive been checking my oil for teh milkly substance, there is none, as well as no sweet smell from the exuast on start up.. but ill check that radiator trick tonight

i found a small pinhole leak of coolant on the passanger side valve cover up in the front on the water pump side, and also i suspect another small one in the rear im assuming on the upper part of the manifold, i ee what looks like some coolant there, im assuming this could be the cause? probably why i smell coolant when the car has been driving for about 20 minuets



checked my reverse lights, def not working so that's what the wire is going to see if i can figure out to wire them back up
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Old May 10th, 2009, 08:48 PM   #19
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a small intake leak or something could be why your smelling it and not necessarily burning it out the tail pipe.
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Old May 10th, 2009, 09:35 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by stfudvs View Post
bubbling in the radiator while idleing is a sign of head gasket issues? ive been checking my oil for teh milkly substance, there is none, as well as no sweet smell from the exuast on start up.. but ill check that radiator trick tonight

i found a small pinhole leak of coolant on the passanger side valve cover up in the front on the water pump side, and also i suspect another small one in the rear im assuming on the upper part of the manifold, i ee what looks like some coolant there, im assuming this could be the cause? probably why i smell coolant when the car has been driving for about 20 minuets



checked my reverse lights, def not working so that's what the wire is going to see if i can figure out to wire them back up

A bad head gasket doesn't always produce coolant in the oil or enough out the tail pipe to see or smell but will almost always bubble the coolant due to the escaping cylinder pressure. I've changed many failed head gaskets that never had white smoke or milky oil.

Definitely fix that leak!
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