Head gasket.

flattusmaximus78 · May 11th, 2009, 08:52 PM

I have p's but I torqued them to arp's specs.

1slo5.0 · May 11th, 2009, 09:46 PM

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY

THere is 4 lbft diffrence between the two. Split the diffrence? Also will the special 1/2 inch to 7/16" trickflow washers, replace the arp head stud washers, or should I put the Arp washers on top of the trickflow ones?

I doubt there will be a torque difference in the washers. Use what is on the head.

ryans88gt · May 12th, 2009, 10:55 AM

put washers on top of the 7/16" to 1/2" bushings.

9333pt1 is an awesome gasket and is a MLS core gasket, with laminate on the outside and the fire-rings are Siamesed so that the fire rings are much less likely to push out.

Best part is, the gaskets are cheap....you can buy them on summit.

Follow the head bolt torque sequence. After you fire it up and warm it up to operating temperature and let it cool completely back down overnight, retorque the head bolts one at a time by loosening them 1/4 turn and retorqing them.

For Arp studs I use 95 ft lbs top and 85 ft lbs bottom. For bolts I use 85 ft lbs top and 80 bottom.

Retorquing the bolts makes a big difference in the clamping force as most of them will go another 1/16 to 1/4 turn after a hot/cool cycle.

ryans88gt · May 12th, 2009, 10:59 AM

oh yeah and I put permatex non-hardening sealant on all the bolt threads
and quality moly lube on the head and washers or nut and washers depending on if you are using studs or bolts.

flamestang · May 12th, 2009, 12:45 PM

I've ran the Fell pro 1011 w/arp studs on 10 psi and made about 30 passes and had no problems there also good insurance.

JBIGBOOTSY · May 12th, 2009, 06:21 PM

Got it done. It makes boost alot sooner now.

Ryans88gt, is the re torque a must? I have never done that before. I went with the 1011-2's . I did use the molly lube and torqued to spec.

89LX347 · May 12th, 2009, 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY

Got it done. It makes boost alot sooner now.

Ryans88gt, is the re torque a must? I have never done that before. I went with the 1011-2's . I did use the molly lube and torqued to spec.

its not a must, a lot of people dont do it and dont have any problems, but it is certainly recommended

JBIGBOOTSY · May 12th, 2009, 07:58 PM

too late now, but the rockers are 0 lash + a 1/4 turn right?

89LX347 · May 12th, 2009, 08:00 PM

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY

too late now, but the rockers are 0 lash + a 1/4 turn right?

yes sir

ryans88gt · May 13th, 2009, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY

too late now, but the rockers are 0 lash + a 1/4 turn right?

If you want the gasket to live long in a boosted 302 block, a retorque is highly recommended.

It is never too late to retorque them, unless you already blew them out again.

JBIGBOOTSY · May 14th, 2009, 02:40 AM

Originally Posted by ryans88gt

If you want the gasket to live long in a boosted 302 block, a retorque is highly recommended.

It is never too late to retorque them, unless you already blew them out again.

imonit!

May 11th, 2009, 08:52 PM	#21
flattusmaximus78 I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1993 5.ohhhh 12.97 @140mph Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Gatorland Posts: 6,122 iTrader: 3 reviews	I have p's but I torqued them to arp's specs. __________________ 02 Pewter z28, hoosiers/lid/exhaust/spray...125mph 1993 gt Sold, already missed --Moates Quarter horse $225-- --Cobra intake $150-- --tremec 3550 bell and shifter $1100--

May 12th, 2009, 10:55 AM	#23
ryans88gt MM Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 4,737 iTrader: 0 reviews	put washers on top of the 7/16" to 1/2" bushings. 9333pt1 is an awesome gasket and is a MLS core gasket, with laminate on the outside and the fire-rings are Siamesed so that the fire rings are much less likely to push out. Best part is, the gaskets are cheap....you can buy them on summit. Follow the head bolt torque sequence. After you fire it up and warm it up to operating temperature and let it cool completely back down overnight, retorque the head bolts one at a time by loosening them 1/4 turn and retorqing them. For Arp studs I use 95 ft lbs top and 85 ft lbs bottom. For bolts I use 85 ft lbs top and 80 bottom. Retorquing the bolts makes a big difference in the clamping force as most of them will go another 1/16 to 1/4 turn after a hot/cool cycle. __________________ 88 GT CHI headed 351w 10.8 @ 125 - still figuring it out. 03 Cobra 2.3 whipple 10.7 @ 129 - sold it 04 Mach 1 12.7 @ 109 mostly stock - sold it 89 LX procharged 302 515 hp 497 ftlbs 10.7 @130 mph - sold it

May 12th, 2009, 10:59 AM	#24
ryans88gt MM Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 4,737 iTrader: 0 reviews	oh yeah and I put permatex non-hardening sealant on all the bolt threads and quality moly lube on the head and washers or nut and washers depending on if you are using studs or bolts. __________________ 88 GT CHI headed 351w 10.8 @ 125 - still figuring it out. 03 Cobra 2.3 whipple 10.7 @ 129 - sold it 04 Mach 1 12.7 @ 109 mostly stock - sold it 89 LX procharged 302 515 hp 497 ftlbs 10.7 @130 mph - sold it

May 12th, 2009, 06:21 PM	#26
JBIGBOOTSY MM Fanatic 1990 LX hatch Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Hobart Indiana Posts: 4,391 iTrader: 0 reviews	Got it done. It makes boost alot sooner now. Ryans88gt, is the re torque a must? I have never done that before. I went with the 1011-2's . I did use the molly lube and torqued to spec. __________________ Bolt-on Abraham Lincoln Log motor. With extra wiring.

May 12th, 2009, 07:58 PM	#28
JBIGBOOTSY MM Fanatic 1990 LX hatch Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Hobart Indiana Posts: 4,391 iTrader: 0 reviews	too late now, but the rockers are 0 lash + a 1/4 turn right? __________________ Bolt-on Abraham Lincoln Log motor. With extra wiring.

May 12th, 2009, 12:45 PM	#25
flamestang Regular Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 338 iTrader: 0 reviews	I've ran the Fell pro 1011 w/arp studs on 10 psi and made about 30 passes and had no problems there also good insurance.

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