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Old May 10th, 2009, 02:34 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Head gasket.


I have a bad head gasket, i bleu it. Time for studs, and a new set. Any opinions on a good boostable set for aluminum heads?
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Old May 10th, 2009, 02:38 PM   #2
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Cometic
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Old May 10th, 2009, 02:45 PM   #3
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tell me you didn't pop it being on 5psi or what ever? Had to be an old gasket. Either way let me know. I have the an oem fresh head gasket on ten psi with head studs. It's taken the beaten so far. I just stepped down two pulley sizes. So We will see what she makes on 13psi.
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Old May 10th, 2009, 02:48 PM   #4
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You should weld the heads to the block



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Old May 10th, 2009, 03:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by dr.gonzo View Post
You should weld the heads to the block



if only it were easier to weld aluminum to cast iron
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Old May 10th, 2009, 03:31 PM   #6
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look in the threads i have started, ryan made a recommendation in one of them for my setup (s trim)
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Old May 11th, 2009, 08:51 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY View Post
I have a bad head gasket, i bleu it. Time for studs, and a new set. Any opinions on a good boostable set for aluminum heads?
Felpro 1011-1/1011-2 are good head gaskets. They are relatively inexpensive, seal well and are reliable. The 1011-1 uses a steel core laminate and has a .041 compressed thickness while the 1011-2 also uses a steel core laminate but has a .039 compressed thickness.

MLS gaskets like Cometic are pretty much the best you can buy but you need a 15 RA or better finish on your deck surfaces so the gaskets work properly. The gasket needs to be able to move as the head/block expands and contracts. The MLS gaskets are ridged compared to a conventional head gasket and will not "settle in". If the finish is to rough the gasket will just sit on the high spots of the surface and will leak. This is the reason you here people say their MLS head gaskets leak coolant, its because they didn’t follow the directions and have the deck surfaces machined properly. Cometic gaskets are viton coated and as long as the viton is still intact you can reuse the gasket which is typically 2 to 3 times.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 09:05 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Darrell View Post
Felpro 1011-1/1011-2 are good head gaskets. They are relatively inexpensive, seal well and are reliable. The 1011-1 uses a steel core laminate and has a .041 compressed thickness while the 1011-2 also uses a steel core laminate but has a .039 compressed thickness.

MLS gaskets like Cometic are pretty much the best you can buy but you need a 15 RA or better finish on your deck surfaces so the gaskets work properly. The gasket needs to be able to move as the head/block expands and contracts. The MLS gaskets are ridged compared to a conventional head gasket and will not "settle in". If the finish is to rough the gasket will just sit on the high spots of the surface and will leak. This is the reason you here people say their MLS head gaskets leak coolant, its because they didn’t follow the directions and have the deck surfaces machined properly. Cometic gaskets are viton coated and as long as the viton is still intact you can reuse the gasket which is typically 2 to 3 times.

I really didnt want to take the bottom end appart to the machine shop. I was pretty sure the blocks surface was not in the RA. area for copper gaskets, didnt know about the MLS ones(thanks for the tip). I was looking at the graphite FRP gaskets with the pre flattened ss ring. whats ya think? Also do I use the heads recomended torque specs, or is there somthing I dont know about when switching to studs?
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Old May 11th, 2009, 09:36 AM   #9
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You will need to torque the studs as per stud manufacturer. Remember to use a thread sealant on any studs that go into the water passage area of the block. Studs are to be screwed into the block hand tight, do not over tighten them into the block. I can't remember the part number, but I used a Fel Pro head gasket that was pre-flattened and haven't had a problem as of yet.*Knock on wood*, but I'm only hitting it with a 125shot, and I have only done that twice. Never at the track yet, but soon I will.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 09:38 AM   #10
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I've seen mentioned that felpro 9333pt1 is good head gasket for boost.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 10:19 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY View Post
I really didnt want to take the bottom end appart to the machine shop. I was pretty sure the blocks surface was not in the RA. area for copper gaskets, didnt know about the MLS ones(thanks for the tip). I was looking at the graphite FRP gaskets with the pre flattened ss ring. whats ya think? Also do I use the heads recomended torque specs, or is there somthing I dont know about when switching to studs?
Use the Felpro 1011-1 or 1011-2 depending on what gasket volume you need. Use ARP fasteners. Use ARP's specifications which will be different depending on what you use for lubricant. The ARP moly lube is the best stuff to use and will yield the most accurate results.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 10:25 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Arctic Fox View Post
I've seen mentioned that felpro 9333pt1 is good head gasket for boost.
Yes, that is another good gasket if you can find them.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 12:46 PM   #13
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the carnage, not too bad.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 12:57 PM   #14
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that was the 1011-2^ i think it might of been the 4th use of my torque to yields, that gave me the problem tho.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 01:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY View Post
that was the 1011-2^ i think it might of been the 4th use of my torque to yields, that gave me the problem tho.
4th use of torque to yields! LMAO!!!! I wonder what the problem was....


You sure do get your use out of your parts.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 01:11 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Darrell View Post
4th use of torque to yields! LMAO!!!! I wonder what the problem was....


You sure do get your use out of your parts.
Idk what I was thinking, they held up the first 3 times tho.
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Old May 11th, 2009, 01:37 PM   #17
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well, now i don't feel bad about using a gasket twice
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Old May 11th, 2009, 02:11 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by baine21225 View Post
well, now i don't feel bad about using a gasket twice
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Old May 11th, 2009, 04:10 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by BlessedHellride View Post
You will need to torque the studs as per stud manufacturer. Remember to use a thread sealant on any studs that go into the water passage area of the block. Studs are to be screwed into the block hand tight, do not over tighten them into the block. I can't remember the part number, but I used a Fel Pro head gasket that was pre-flattened and haven't had a problem as of yet.*Knock on wood*, but I'm only hitting it with a 125shot, and I have only done that twice. Never at the track yet, but soon I will.
no, i think you torque the stud per the head manufacturer
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Old May 11th, 2009, 08:06 PM   #20
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THere is 4 lbft diffrence between the two. Split the diffrence? Also will the special 1/2 inch to 7/16" trickflow washers, replace the arp head stud washers, or should I put the Arp washers on top of the trickflow ones?
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