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Old May 18th, 2009, 07:42 PM   #1
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Rear end build


I have full bolt on's (H/C/I) and my next step is to get some 4.10 gears, However like always their's many ways to take things too far, Im on a fairly tight budget - However I have some questions, as I would rather do it right the first time.

1) Should I be buying a new trac-lok at this time too?
2) While im at that should I get a 31 spliner and then new axles for another 250$?
3) Will a new trac-lok and axles boost the install cost up alot?
4) What's the point of the 5 lug conversion? Just for the Disc breaks?
5) What HP level will the stock axles take someone to?
6) Are their any tricks to beef up the rear breaks without going fully disc conversion so i can run 31 splines but without going into the whole break system?
7) What should I buy with the trac-lok/gears to take to get it installed? Just a bearing/install kit? Can someone recommend one.
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Old May 19th, 2009, 03:27 PM   #2
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Anyone have any suggestions? Finding it hard to get the best bang for the buck out of this problem
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Old May 19th, 2009, 03:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by sniperd View Post
I have full bolt on's (H/C/I) and my next step is to get some 4.10 gears, However like always their's many ways to take things too far, Im on a fairly tight budget - However I have some questions, as I would rather do it right the first time.

1) Should I be buying a new trac-lok at this time too?
2) While im at that should I get a 31 spliner and then new axles for another 250$?
3) Will a new trac-lok and axles boost the install cost up alot?
4) What's the point of the 5 lug conversion? Just for the Disc breaks?
5) What HP level will the stock axles take someone to?
6) Are their any tricks to beef up the rear breaks without going fully disc conversion so i can run 31 splines but without going into the whole break system?
7) What should I buy with the trac-lok/gears to take to get it installed? Just a bearing/install kit? Can someone recommend one.

1) You can rebuild your trac-lok. Ryan did a great article on this and it is stickied. I highly recommend reading it. There is alot of good info in there.

2) A 31 spline upgrade is a good idea if you plan on making more horsepower down the road. If there is any good amount of miles on your car the axles probably have been abused pretty bad.

3) Yes a new traction lock and axles will increase the cost of the rebuild. Figure another $500 at least depending on what differential you go with.

4) The only point of a 5 lug conversion is for wheel selection. Most companies make 4 lug wheels now so this isn't really an issue anymore. The number of wheel studs has nothing to do with breaks. You can get 4 lug disc brakes too.

5) Debateable. Its not really a horsepower issue as much as its a sticky tire issue. Manual transmissions are hard on everything in the drivetrain. Combine launching a manual transmission car hard with a set of slicks and you have a recipe for broken stock axles.

6) There are no tricks for the factory rear drum brakes. Upgrading to discs is your next step. There are many options out there. Axle spline count has nothing to do with the brake system.

7) Summit Racing sells install kits that come with all of the needed bearings and shims.
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Old May 19th, 2009, 04:15 PM   #4
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Awesome, Thank you - Much appreciated.

I assumed I needed a new trak-lok and didnt realize the stock one was just as good rebuilt, Also being able to upgrade to 31 splines and use the 4 lug and then upgrading to disc's later is good to know
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Old May 19th, 2009, 11:40 PM   #5
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yeah the trak lok in our cars has a bunch of clutches in it that get worn out over time, usually causing one wheel peel, etc. i recommend buying the rebuild kit with carbon clutches, they are stronger and last longer. all rebuild kits might come with carbon clutches now, i am not sure.
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Old May 20th, 2009, 10:52 AM   #6
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you can also get a set of aftermarket 28 spline axles that are significantly stronger than the stock 28s and use the stock differential.

regardless of whether you get 28 or 31 spline axles, i personally would install a set of c-clip eliminators and keep the drum brakes to keep costs down.

but, if you don't drag race or have sticky tires, it wouldn't be as important to have c clip eliminators.
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Old May 20th, 2009, 04:45 PM   #7
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what's the point in the c clip eliminators?
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Old May 20th, 2009, 08:36 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by sniperd View Post
what's the point in the c clip eliminators?
The factory axles have c-clips that hold them in. C-clip eliminators do just what the name implies, eliminate the C-clips and use bolt in axle retention instead.
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Old May 20th, 2009, 09:21 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by sniperd View Post
what's the point in the c clip eliminators?
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Old May 20th, 2009, 11:31 PM   #10
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they stop you from picking bad backspacing?
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Old May 21st, 2009, 10:14 AM   #11
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LOL oops!
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Old May 21st, 2009, 02:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by baine21225 View Post
they stop you from picking bad backspacing?
LMFAO!!!!
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Old May 21st, 2009, 03:28 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 View Post
LMFAO!!!!
is he kidding?
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Old May 21st, 2009, 05:23 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by grnstang View Post
is he kidding?
Yes, Baine is not stupid.
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Old May 21st, 2009, 06:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by baine21225 View Post
they stop you from picking bad backspacing?
riding the messican way. how we roll around here
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Old May 22nd, 2009, 12:05 PM   #16
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LOL good
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Old May 22nd, 2009, 01:53 PM   #17
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aren't the eliminators mandatory once you hit a certain time?
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Old May 22nd, 2009, 08:19 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by baine21225 View Post
aren't the eliminators mandatory once you hit a certain time?
Yes.
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