[Lxtacy]

[Any help that can be provided is much appreciated. My name is Tommy, and I've had 1990 LX 5.0 for about 5 yrs. The car is a numbers matching mint condition example that I picked up with only 65K on the odometer.

Last year, I got bitten by the "Mustang Bug", and over the course of the year added the following: Amsoil filter, BBK cold-air, Pro-M 75mm mass-air, Accufab 65mm polished throttle body, Cobra upper & lower intake, kirban adj fuel regulator, BBK ceramic shorties, CJ pony off-road H pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, King Cobra clutch, super-duty T-5, 3.55 Fomoco rear, Pro 5.0 short shifter, Maximum Motorsports subframes, March underdrive pulleys, 9mm wires, Cobra plugs, MSD blaster coil & 6AL ignition, upgraded Fomoco radiator.

The car is ran 13.89 @ 101 mph on Nitto drag radials at Englishtown NJ, on my very first run ever last year, and ran consistent 13.90s the other 2 passes. I know it's capable of 13.30s-13.50s once I start cutting better lights and improve my 60 ft times. I'm having 3.90 gears installed in the next month, which I know should put me into the 13.00-13.50 range with a good light and low pressure in the tires.

I want to replace the stock cam & heads and was looking for ideas. I hear a lot about AFR 165s, Trick Flow Twisted Wedges, FoMoCo GT-40X, and Edelbrock Performer heads. When I do the heads I want to do the Cam also and go with either an "E" cam or "X" cam. I've already purchased 1.6 rollers, hardened pushrods, and new lifters. The car is a street car that gets driven to shows, club gatherings, and to the track a few times a year. I put less than 3K miles a year on it because it only gets driven from April to October on cool dry days. . . .

Any opinions/experiences that would offer insight into which would be best for the car would be great. I would like the car to be streetable, and be able to idle without a problem. A lopey idle is fine as long as the duration and lift aren't so high that it sounds like it's going to stall. The stock E7TE heads are on it with the stock cam. Should I have them ported, or go aftermarket with new heads? Ideally I'd like the car to be in the high 11s or low 12s on motor. . . .

Thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this.[/b]

[Tony_90fox]

You could wait at the line for 53 seconds and it wouldnt hurt your ET at all. I thought the same thing too. I am just letting you know that!

Definitely go with aftermarket heads and cam. Trickflow Twisted wedges will suit you well. Instead of an E or X cam, go with a tickflow stage 1 cam. I hear that the X cam can be a bit radical and maybe too much for what you want. Ported E7s will never hang with a good set of AFRs or Trickflows.

[89BEAR]

LXTACY,

I have a 1989 lx with 35kms (20mil) and have just about
everything you have on the car and under the hood. This
is my next step and have been researching allot the last
two month looking for a good setup. I chose to install the
e cam before I did the heads and was basically a waste
of money. Now I am looking for new heads and a new cam
as the e seems a little on the light side, but then again I am
running the stock e7 heads..... I have heard that the TF's are
great, but hard to install..... the AFR 165's are supposed to bolt
right on with no problems and the same goes for Edelbrock
which will cost a few hundres less. AFR's are my first choice
and then the TF's, if I confirm they can be installed with
no problems (mods).

As for a cam, I have been advised the TF stage 2 cam is great
with their heads and the Extreme Energy EX series.

Please note some information you might interesting and direct
from AFR:

Hi Brad,

There are no performance or spec differences between an emissions
head or non emissions head. I would recommend one of comp cams extreme
energy (XE) camshafts. They've better profile then the old ford
motorsports camshafts. Meaning you'll make more overall power because
the XE lobes will hold the valve open longer and therefore allow more
air to enter the cylinder. If you don't want to fly cut the pistons I'd
recommend an comp XE270R with the standard 1.6 ratio rocker arm. If you
are willing to flycut the pistons I'd step up to a 1.7 ratio rocker arm.
I'd recommend getting our stud mount 58cc emissions 165's. I say
emissions because you can block off the emissions provisions but still
have the options of reverting back for whatever reason might come up.
Also the smaller chamber will raise your compression a bit (roughly 9.5)
and the smaller chamber is a little better designed. As you already
know, you'll need the 8032 spring and valve upgrade, that will run you
$182. On a stock 302 with just a swap to our set of 165's we've seen a
40 hp increase, since you've got a ton of other bolt ons your gains will
be quite higher. If you go with an XE camshaft and have a good tune you
should be close to around 280-290rwhp. You will need a tune, I
recommend having a full dyno tune with a wide band rather then a mail
order chip. With the stud mount rocker arms you will need hardened
chromoly pushrods, the exact length I couldn't tell you because there
are a variety of variables. Your best bet is to purchase and adjustable
pushrod length checker and mock up the geometry. Let me know if you
have anymore questions.

[keepitmuddy]

if you have a stock bottom end you can't run anything about over .520 i think. so a tfs stage 2 cam is out of the question since on the exhaust it lifts to about .560

they afr 165's aren't a bad choice. don't bother with the gt40x's. for the price to performance, you're better off buying a set of edlebrock performer rpm's. save a couple hundred bucks and make more power.
and since the afr's are as pricey as they are the edle. RPM's with their recommended cam would probably be best for you.

for the price difference between the 165's and 185's you'd be better with a 185, if you could actually run the 2.02 intake valve. notching pistons is too much of a hassel.

if money is an issue and you want to get to those 13's or lower for half the price, gt40p's with an e303 cam would work nice with your setup. though your headers won't fit properly.

just a thought, buy your heads for the type of rockers you bought. if you did good, you bought stud rockers. the price of studs is $40 so it doesnt really matter whether you get 3/8 or 7/16. quality arp 3/8's studs is plenty though.

[9stang1]

a good set of trickflow twisted wedge heads or AFR 185s would be the best choice....personally, i would go with the AFR 185s and the valve spring upgrade kit...

[1slo5.0]

For the record I know first hand you can make 320+ rwhp with Twisted Wedge heads, run 11s and still get mid 20 range for mpg.


I would like the hear why people would go with AFR (or any other head for that matter) if they don't have any experience with them? Personal opinion doesn't make horsepower, a good combination does.

[Lxtacy]

Thanks for all of the replies. I've been hearing a lot about the AFRs and Trick Flow Twisted Wedges. I'd have to say that more than 50% of the Fox bodies I see in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords, 5.0, and Modified Mustang magazines seem to be running Twisted Wedges. 1990 LX Mustang seems to know a lot about these, and judging by the wheels up launch I'm assuming you have a 9 or 10 second car on your hands. Any recommendations for the cam, as I've purchased 1.6 ratio rockers already.

Also, anyone have any input as to what my car should be running as is with a good driver/light? . . . and what it should be able to do with the same driver/light and the heads and cam. If 320 rwhp is what I'm looking to make with the heads and cam, I'm thinking the motor would be at 350-375 HP at the flywheel. Should be good for 12s ?

Thanks for welcoming me to the community guys . . . I appreciate all the help ! ! !

Tommy

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by Lxtacy Also, anyone have any input as to what my car should be running as is with a good driver/light? . . . and what it should be able to do with the same driver/light and the heads and cam. If 320 rwhp is what I'm looking to make with the heads and cam, I'm thinking the motor would be at 350-375 HP at the flywheel. Should be good for 12s ? Thanks for welcoming me to the community guys . . . I appreciate all the help ! ! ! Tommy

Stock lower end, twisted wedge heads, TFS stage 2 cam, TFS Track Heat or R-series intake, full length headers. All this will make about 320hp plus or minus a few at the wheels thru a 5 speed. With a 5 speed in a 3300 pound car on slicks will go mid 12s with ease. With some time behind the wheel very low 12s/high 11s will be in your future. With less weight it will obviously be a bit faster. Fuel economy won't suffer too much either.

[89BEAR]

Darrell,

Do you have to fly cut the pistons with the stage 2 cam? Are
the TF heads hard to install ot do they bolt right on?

Thanks

[StangAddiction]

Originally Posted by Darrell Originally Posted by Lxtacy Also, anyone have any input as to what my car should be running as is with a good driver/light? . . . and what it should be able to do with the same driver/light and the heads and cam. If 320 rwhp is what I'm looking to make with the heads and cam, I'm thinking the motor would be at 350-375 HP at the flywheel. Should be good for 12s ? Thanks for welcoming me to the community guys . . . I appreciate all the help ! ! ! Tommy Stock lower end, twisted wedge heads, TFS stage 2 cam, TFS Track Heat or R-series intake, full length headers. All this will make about 320hp plus or minus a few at the wheels thru a 5 speed. With a 5 speed in a 3300 pound car on slicks will go mid 12s with ease. With some time behind the wheel very low 12s/high 11s will be in your future. With less weight it will obviously be a bit faster. Fuel economy won't suffer too much either.

I'd assume it'd make more than that actually, especially with the tfs stage 2 cam and TH intake.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 89BEAR Darrell, Do you have to fly cut the pistons with the stage 2 cam? Are the TF heads hard to install ot do they bolt right on? Thanks

I've never had to but I always check valve to piston clearance.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by StangAddiction I'd assume it'd make more than that actually, especially with the tfs stage 2 cam and TH intake.

Definitely can make more. The combination I listed was a totally untuned set up that was in my 91 GT that also pulled down 25mpg on the highway. With some time tuning I'm sure another 15hp or more could be pulled out of it.

[89BEAR]

I am running the stock fuel pump and injectors and should
I upgrade these to 255 in tank fuel pump and 24lb injectors
with the heads and stage 2 cam? Also, I am running a 65mm
TB and should this be upgraded to a 70mm ot 75mm TB?

Thanks for your input

[Lxtacy]

Thanks for all of the help guys. I have one last question that Darrell or anyone can get at. The TFS heads (assembled), stage 2 cam, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, timing chain, plus all of the associated hardware(head, intake, exhaust, timing gaskets) is going to run me at least $2,200.00. If I add installation at our local speed shop (LaRoccas in NJ) and a dyno tune, I'm talking about $3,500-$4,000.00 . . . . And I'm only getting 320-340 HP . . . the supercharger and install are the same . . .

I'm thinking maybe a Vortech S-Trim polished blower would be a smarter choice. I've been researching a little, and am finding that setup will bump the horses to about 400 HP at the crank with a good tune @ 8-9 psi. On the other hand I also know that boost isn't a great combo with a stock bottom end . . . .

Since I have a low mileage, well-maintained motor, which is freshly sealed with new head & intake gaskets and ARP bolts everywhere from when we did the Cobra intake etc. . . . would I be OK?

375-400HP in a 3,300lb fox body with sub-frames and slicks should put the et's in the 11.80 range @ 117-120 mph . . . I only assume this because when I ran my car at E-town and busted 13.90s back to back to back.. . on my first run I raced an 03 Cobra with a pulley change and cat-back exhaust. He said his dyno tune showed 425HP (motor not rwhp) and he ran 11.60 w a 1.70 6- foot time to my 13.90. Plus his car is a much heavier mustang. . .

Am I close . . .in the ballpark? And will my motor be Ok ?

[cdunc24]

Originally Posted by Darrell Stock lower end, twisted wedge heads, TFS stage 2 cam, TFS Track Heat or R-series intake, full length headers. All this will make about 320hp plus or minus a few at the wheels thru a 5 speed. With a 5 speed in a 3300 pound car on slicks will go mid 12s with ease. With some time behind the wheel very low 12s/high 11s will be in your future. With less weight it will obviously be a bit faster. Fuel economy won't suffer too much either.

darrell,
would this setup be still be ok to add nitrous? stock lower end w/ components you described?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by cdunc24 darrell, would this setup be still be ok to add nitrous? stock lower end w/ components you described?

Yes.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by Darrell For the record I know first hand you can make 320+ rwhp with Twisted Wedge heads, run 11s and still get mid 20 range for mpg. I would like the hear why people would go with AFR (or any other head for that matter) if they don't have any experience with them? Personal opinion doesn't make horsepower, a good combination does.

Do you work for trick flow? Come on man....just kidding.

I Think the mustang mags allways pimp out AFRs. I dont know, I do know AFR 185 wont word on a stock botom end, and some how TF heads get a 2.02 to work on a stock bottom end.

[Tony_90fox]

just get a good tune with that nitrous. and dont throw on a 300 shot!

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by JBIGBOOTSY Do you work for trick flow? Come on man....just kidding. I Think the mustang mags allways pimp out AFRs. I dont know, I do know AFR 185 wont word on a stock botom end, and some how TF heads get a 2.02 to work on a stock bottom end.

I don't work for Trick Flow but I probably should. I am probably hands down their biggest supporter. I've been running Trick Flow heads for years and have laid down some good numbers with them. I push Trick Flow heads because I know what they can do and I know they work. I was told buy some well known professionals that my engine would never make more than 600hp and my car would never get out of the tens with the R-Series heads that I have. I made that much power at the wheels and ran 9.30s so I guess the professionals were wrong....

[89BEAR]

Darrell,

Can I run the TF top end kit and sub the stage 1 cam for the
stage 2 or is the stage 1 fine? I am going TF, but was told
to stay with the stage 1 as it will only be a street car.