[flattusmaximus78]

Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 My white blower car had a 10.6 a/f ratio. That is where it accelerated the best. My black n/a car had an 11.5 a/f ratio when the tune was perfect......naturally aspirated! With my black car I told the guy the only way I would dyno it is if I could tune it. He agreed. The car made like 539rwhp and had an 11.5:1 a/f ratio. He told me that it was way too rich and needed alot less jet. I reminded him that I was tuning and not him. In the end, I didn't change much. Basically made a bunch of pulls to make sure everything was working correctly. I tuned the car at the track and it was dead on. I tuned it from 10.30s to 9.30s. A full second in tuning alone and when I went to the dyno the "tuner" told me my tune was wrong. The perfect tune is the one that allows *your car* to accelerate the quickest (and be safe obviously). What works for Joe Blow's car might not work for your car. Tune tune tune is making passes down the track so you can see what gains if any your changes are giving you. But what do I know?

I get this 100% you said my tuner doesn't know what perfect is. I agree with you on that. But when "I" asked for safe. "I" asked for power under curve, and "I" wanted decent numbers... and he came through with all 3 of the above. So isn't that perfect for what I asked for? I didn't say it was maxing out my combo not once. But this is the second time repeating myselfo n what I just said in this post.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 Don't tell me to stop lol, I can't take constructive criticism. It's part of learning. If I'm wrong and you want to correct me, by all means. I know you have nothing against me. So go ahead through my last post and answer my questions please.

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 So when less air comes in the motor the maf just dumps a rediculous amount of fuel in. It doesn't just take in the less air from the tb, and keep the same fuel thats in it from the tune? Also my idle issues have nothing to do with the tune. They'veh ad these problems since day one when I was n/a all motor.

The mass air flow sensor measures the air coming into the engine at all engine speeds at all times. That is how the computer calculates how much fuel to give the engine. When you change anything that affects airflow into the engine, the mass air flow sensor reports the change in airflow to the computer.

The idle may have something to do with your tune, you don't know for sure because you haven't solved the problem yet. I think we've discussed this before and it could be the throttle body but I don't remember for sure.

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 You said you don't understand why we dyno after changes... well, one to see the power difference, and two to make sure it's safe. Thats two reasons. And I said that because you dynoing your car at the track has nothing to do with anything.

You've got that wrong. Performance at the track is everything. You can dyno your little heart out and still never have the car tuned as good as you will tuning at a race track.

[baine21225]

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 I get this 100% you said my tuner doesn't know what perfect is. I agree with you on that. But when "I" asked for safe. "I" asked for power under curve, and "I" wanted decent numbers... and he came through with all 3 of the above. So isn't that perfect for what I asked for? I didn't say it was maxing out my combo not once. But this is the second time repeating myselfo n what I just said in this post.

You said perfect tune, you are not repeating yourself. Why would you not want to tune every ounce of power out of your combo? That makes no sense to me. You may have gotten what you asked for but I guarantee it is not a perfect tune. We don't race dynos. I am repeating myself....

[flattusmaximus78]

Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 You said perfect tune, you are not repeating yourself. Why would you not want to tune every ounce of power out of your combo? That makes no sense to me. You may have gotten what you asked for but I guarantee it is not a perfect tune. We don't race dynos. I am repeating myself....

I don't use the dyno to measure how fast it should go, it's for safety purposes as stated before, of course I'd it's power is a small measure of the fast this it was faster then before. But I don't race my car at the track, it's my dd and was built to make the drive less boreing. Thats why I'm to concerned with getting my combo 100%, but my tuner delivered with what I asked.

Now I'm GUESSING, not dyno racing so don't take this the wrong way. I did dyno on a mustang dyno, and this dyno in particular reads rather conservative. My tq was 418 wcf, i Know my cracked plugged didn't allow me to get an hp number, but wouldn't you say maybe around 440 or so? That to me is a little much for the stock block. That seems a little much for stock block to me.

My idle thing I don't get. It just dives betweens 500-1000 when cold, and once it's been drive it hits 0 on the tach and then bounces from there to 500. Just keeps me uneasy after ripping on it, Id get scared to death if it were to shut off on me.

[superbean]

Very good stuff! If at all possible I try to tune everything myself via an e prom/emulator setup. Even though I am still an amatuer, I am capeable of tuning as well at 50% of the tuners out there.. and if I blow something out, it's my fault and I didn't spend hours on the dyno $$$$

But for sure, with those afr's, your car will run safely.. I say have him work on the idle issue, then take it to the track and the times will tell all!

Interesting note: Most boosted cars are tuned for 11.5:1 WOT AFR (Safe rich tune)... But I tuned a 7MGTE supra for a friend, the best track times were at 12.9 air fuel with less timing. Cut the car off right at the end of the 1/4 and coasted into the pits, pulled a plug.. looked perfect. . Who knows..

[flattusmaximus78]

12.9 lol. Either way. What can you do on a chip to control idle, or mess with it. I was under the impression that with iac tps and the idle screw was all there was. When I first paid to get it tuned, he messed with those, but it didn't fix it. This retune was free, were cool with eachother now, so I just toss him a couple bucks. However I don't like bugging him. He's a distributor of parts who happens to own a dyno to test his products, so he doesn't tune cars for a living. Most of his money is made over phone calls, conferences, and meetings.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 12.9 lol. Either way. What can you do on a chip to control idle, or mess with it. I was under the impression that with iac tps and the idle screw was all there was. When I first paid to get it tuned, he messed with those, but it didn't fix it. This retune was free, were cool with eachother now, so I just toss him a couple bucks. However I don't like bugging him. He's a distributor of parts who happens to own a dyno to test his products, so he doesn't tune cars for a living. Most of his money is made over phone calls, conferences, and meetings.

Alot. Like I said in a previous post, one of my cars wouldn't even idle with the chip removed. With the chip it idled beautiful. The computer controls everything.

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 I don't use the dyno to measure how fast it should go, it's for safety purposes as stated before, of course I'd it's power is a small measure of the fast this it was faster then before. But I don't race my car at the track, it's my dd and was built to make the drive less boreing. Thats why I'm to concerned with getting my combo 100%, but my tuner delivered with what I asked. Now I'm GUESSING, not dyno racing so don't take this the wrong way. I did dyno on a mustang dyno, and this dyno in particular reads rather conservative. My tq was 418 wcf, i Know my cracked plugged didn't allow me to get an hp number, but wouldn't you say maybe around 440 or so? That to me is a little much for the stock block. That seems a little much for stock block to me. My idle thing I don't get. It just dives betweens 500-1000 when cold, and once it's been drive it hits 0 on the tach and then bounces from there to 500. Just keeps me uneasy after ripping on it, Id get scared to death if it were to shut off on me.

As far as the block goes. assuming there are "fresher" bearings, and everything is in good shape, it varies. Some blocks crack at high hp, and rpm, but are still making in the 400 lb ft ratings, some crack at 3000rpms with 550 lbft. I would say at 450/450@6000rpms, if your engine is fresh, youll be fine.

[superbean]

12.9. Were hard core.

Forged pistons are race gas ftw