[flattusmaximus78]

Ok I have my curren't set up. I'm not liking it to too much. I have my old 93 long block in the garage. It's for sale for 90 bucks, but the sales pending at the moment. I randomly got an idea to throw this on the stand and start rebuilding it.

I would really like to go back to being n/a. I don't want a 108 mph H/C/I fox. My goal is a 114mph plus fox, which has been done countless times. I skipped the n/a reading over time so I need some schooling right now.

I have my 93 block in the garage. Thats the only part of the long block I want to live on to the new project. I found some rebuilt kits on summit.

Federal Mogul CSMHP749-300 - Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits – SummitRacing.com

Will a kit such as this with hypers stand up to the setup I want? If The hypers are a no go I'll aim for the forged flat top pistons.

If so I want to clean up the old block. Hopefully it doesn't have to be bored. I want to do a set of trickflow heads, trick flow intake manifold, and a custom cam. Big throttle body, big maf, probably 30lb injectors or so. Maybe keep the lightning maf and get tuned on that.

I need to know what specific heads to get?
What manifold?
What size maf, and tb?

[White Thunder]

if your going that far why not stroke it....

[flattusmaximus78]

Not trying to spend the money. I maybe just buy the budget short block you see on late model for $699. I think after buying the bottom end parts, and putting together the bottom end at the machine shop will more then $700.

Kinda worried about clearences though. But my goal is stock bottom end and I can hopefully do the H/C/I.

I'm just having my problems with boost and what not. I've made my decision. I love the reliability of being n/a. Nothing really changes on a day to day basis.

[93mustank]

Freshen up that block. If you can afford it there are some forged probe pistons on ebay for 150 already cut for the tw heads.

If money allow go for a spyder intake...if not a systemax with a box upper and a 90mm.

Custom cam, if its possible solid roller.

Spin it to 6800 ish.

If you dont hit 114 in that something is very wrong aka driver mod/assembler.

114 is not a high goal at all...........

[flattusmaximus78]

114 isn't the highest of all goals. My fox has 03 cobra seats, is a gt, full weight, 9 inch wide rims up front and back. You get the picture. If the combo is capable I will lighten the car up a bit and use it to it's full capability.

I've never done bottom end work, but I can assemble the top end of a motor like cutting cake. With school I wont have the time to do so.

But could you link me to those pistons?

If I get those pistons:

What rods? Will the stock rods work just fine?

Why would you suggest solid roller? The conversion may be out of reach for me, we'll see when I'm more educated.




Edit: Will pulling my chip out of my ecu, turn my tune back to stock?

[93mustank]

Can assemble a top end? So you are able to degree the cam? Shim the springs for proper clearance? Check for pushrod length? Set lash? etc etc.............

Solid is the way to go...hyd will get you buy...but if you have the money and want to spend money once go solid....

Probe Pistons Ford 302/393W Flat Top Twisted Wedge:eBay Motors (item 290323819853 end time Jun-19-09 08:06:13 PDT)

[flattusmaximus78]

No sir I didn't say all that. I said I could put it together. I didn't degree the my fcam, but on a custom cam, I'd like to do it. I thought you only had to set valve lash if you go solid roller?

Are solid roller parts that much more pricier... if pricer at all?

Whats the best way to figure out what pushrods to go with... or after I figure out my head intake combo will my cam grinder figure this out?


A Oem replacement rod will go fine with this piston?

[93mustank]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 No sir I didn't say all that. I said I could put it together. I didn't degree the my fcam, but on a custom cam, I'd like to do it. I thought you only had to set valve lash if you go solid roller? Are solid roller parts that much more pricier... if pricer at all? Whats the best way to figure out what pushrods to go with... or after I figure out my head intake combo will my cam grinder figure this out? A Oem replacement rod will go fine with this piston?

Valve lash on both solid and hyd roller aka pre load.........

If your buying the heads new than stepping up to solid springs is like 80 more....then you can find solid lifters for 250 ish....

Pushrod will have to be measured with a check spring...

Dont know about the stock rods and the pistons....I know the stock rods are press in ....someone else will have to answer this one.

Its a lot easier to just throw a blower on than to build an fast n/a motor..... Some can do it some cant....

[95BlackStang]

its called a haynes manual lol,

[flattusmaximus78]

Originally Posted by 93mustank Valve lash on both solid and hyd roller aka pre load......... If your buying the heads new than stepping up to solid springs is like 80 more....then you can find solid lifters for 250 ish.... Pushrod will have to be measured with a check spring... Dont know about the stock rods and the pistons....I know the stock rods are press in ....someone else will have to answer this one. Its a lot easier to just throw a blower on than to build an fast n/a motor..... Some can do it some cant....

I hear you on the last part. I've done one, and I'd like to try the other. I'd love to just throw together and heads cam car, but like I said, I do not want to trap 108.

Is there a decent trickflow head out there, that doesn't require notching the pistons?

[baine21225]

so whats wrong with the s trim?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 Ok I have my curren't set up. I'm not liking it to too much. I have my old 93 long block in the garage. It's for sale for 90 bucks, but the sales pending at the moment. I randomly got an idea to throw this on the stand and start rebuilding it. I would really like to go back to being n/a. I don't want a 108 mph H/C/I fox. My goal is a 114mph plus fox, which has been done countless times. I skipped the n/a reading over time so I need some schooling right now. I have my 93 block in the garage. Thats the only part of the long block I want to live on to the new project. I found some rebuilt kits on summit. Federal Mogul CSMHP749-300 - Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits – SummitRacing.com Will a kit such as this with hypers stand up to the setup I want? If The hypers are a no go I'll aim for the forged flat top pistons. If so I want to clean up the old block. Hopefully it doesn't have to be bored. I want to do a set of trickflow heads, trick flow intake manifold, and a custom cam. Big throttle body, big maf, probably 30lb injectors or so. Maybe keep the lightning maf and get tuned on that. I need to know what specific heads to get? What manifold? What size maf, and tb?

I'm not sure what those pistons weigh or what the ring sizes are but those are two big factors. N/A a hyperutectic piston will work fine but weight and ring size need to be known. A set of Probe pistons would do the trick.

If you are going this far you might as well bore the block so the cylinders are true. Its only another $150 or so in labor. Doing things right is going to be the difference between reaching your goals and being another 12.50 H/C/I Mustang.

Trick Flow Fast as Cast heads or Canfield 195s would be my choice. Have Jay Allen grind you a cam. You can do either a solid or hydraulic roller. The only draw back of a solid roller is price but it will perform better. An R-series intake will work but I'd wait and let the cam grinder tell you what will work best. Leave things like rocker ratio and intake up to him instead of buying the parts first and somewhat tieing his hands. 30lb injectors will be enough. 75mm throttle body and the biggest MAF you can find. Stick with an Abaco or SCT mass air. Tell your computer what injectors you have, don't try to fool it with a mass air meter.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 No sir I didn't say all that. I said I could put it together. I didn't degree the my fcam, but on a custom cam, I'd like to do it. I thought you only had to set valve lash if you go solid roller? Are solid roller parts that much more pricier... if pricer at all? Whats the best way to figure out what pushrods to go with... or after I figure out my head intake combo will my cam grinder figure this out? A Oem replacement rod will go fine with this piston?

You would probably be glad you didn't degree that F cam. I bet not a single pair of lobes are the same on that piece of shit.

[flattusmaximus78]

Nothing is wrong with the strim...

Well darrel is there any trickflow head that wont need to be notched. Or is there any decent heads one step down from the fast as cast? Just curious...

I think I'm going to try and go with a the notched piston, and some sort of stock replacement. But if there is a tfs head that doesn't need to be notched I'd like to go that direction. If it's half decent.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 Nothing is wrong with the strim... Well darrel is there any trickflow head that wont need to be notched. Or is there any decent heads one step down from the fast as cast? Just curious... I think I'm going to try and go with a the notched piston, and some sort of stock replacement. But if there is a tfs head that doesn't need to be notched I'd like to go that direction. If it's half decent.

Twisted Wedge heads work with stock pistons with mild cams. If you get a set of pistons, get a set for Twisted Wedge heads. Alot of pistons out there have valve reliefs for standard valves and a relief for the Twisted Wedge intake valve. The fast as cast are a Twisted Wedge head. A step down would be the out of the box 170cc Twisted Wedge head.

[flattusmaximus78]

How good are the stock out of the box 170cc twisted wedge head?

I still want to get the notched pistons with and the fast as cast heads. Just depends on this blower selling or how patient I am. I'm going to buy the bottom end first, then the heads, then the cam grinder can speak on the rest of the combo.

I'd love to know if I could buy one of those rebuild kits from summit and swap out pistons and get the right rings. If those probes do work with the bottom end I'd really be getting off on the right foot. I'd buy the hyper set, ditch the hypers, then save for the fast as cast heads. Would anybody know how to figure this out?

I'm getting an engine stand back in the garage next week or so, going to start tearing it down.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 How good are the stock out of the box 170cc twisted wedge head? I still want to get the notched pistons with and the fast as cast heads. Just depends on this blower selling or how patient I am. I'm going to buy the bottom end first, then the heads, then the cam grinder can speak on the rest of the combo. I'd love to know if I could buy one of those rebuild kits from summit and swap out pistons and get the right rings. If those probes do work with the bottom end I'd really be getting off on the right foot. I'd buy the hyper set, ditch the hypers, then save for the fast as cast heads. Would anybody know how to figure this out? I'm getting an engine stand back in the garage next week or so, going to start tearing it down.

The 170cc heads are a good head but the Fast as Cast heads will make more power and support more power. Woody can set you up with a rebuild kit I'm sure. He is also a Probe dealer. FordStrokers.com 331-347-393-408-418-427 stroker kits and ford parts.

[flattusmaximus78]

I will look into woody.

1. woody
2. Trickflow notched pistons with stock bottome end
3. Notch the stockers.

We shall see how it goes from here.

[nolife]

Is being with boost really got you down

If you already have a working SC and all required parts to go with it to make over 400rwhp, why put down even a lot more coin to get back to a goal of maybe 400 rwhp?

I understand some people do not desire boost, just asking..

[88-gt-t-top]

Originally Posted by flattusmaximus78 I'm just having my problems with boost and what not. I've made my decision. I love the reliability of being n/a. Nothing really changes on a day to day basis.

I guess I'm a little lost on this statement, I'm not trying to persuade you on what you're planning on doing or anything. Just looking for an example of what you mean by this: if its hotter(temp) outside the car runs like ass? if it's colder outside the car runs great? Just seams that a lot of people DD S/C cars just wondering if your having a lot of problems with certain things, maybe it's not because of the blower set-up?