[stfudvs]

Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 Also, I don't know why people think a race engine can't be driven at any speed besides wide open throttle. Any engine that doesn't function normally at all rpm is either a piss poor combination or is way out of tune. The only reason most people don't put race engines on the street is because of wear and tear on the parts. The parts are expensive and most people don't want to put anymore wear on them than necessary. Other than that, most "race engines" are totally streetable. My black car made 742hp and ran 9.30s. It made power all over the place and I drove it everywhere. It ran great at 2000 rpm and it ran great at 7000 rpm. Idle, part throttle, wide open throttle.......didn't matter. It ran great in heavy city traffic as well as cruising down the freeway at 70mph. It had sewer sized ports and a big solid roller and 3 1/2" exhaust that everyone says is too big and kills torque

what about us who have to pass emissions, i see a lot of race parts that will not allow me to pass emissions

if people keep arguing when i post questions i may just start pm'ing you and mustank with all my questions

[stfudvs]

Originally Posted by superbean Well luckily many many people run a tride and true twisted wedge setup and it will make the power you want. Keep this thread updated !

well i plan to do my install all at once, so it will be over winter
and i have to accumulate all the parts first

what i will be doing;

twisted wedge heads and custom cam from mustank
i think the intake now is between systemax 2, victor efi super, or trickflow i i i am leaning twards trickflow box
24# injectors
80mm maf/throttle body tb spacer and c&l 4" cold air
new distributer / cap / roter
new radiator, electric fans, and water pump (probably electric)
possible a chip with a tune, havent decided fully on that
new long tube headers and 3" mid pipes to go with it
new 100amp or 140amp altenator
ac delete, with power steering relocator
3.73 gears, short shifter


a lot of this stuff i already have in boxes in my storage
but i will have all the work start once the snow falls in a few more months

i will put up befor and after pictures definitely, and i will do a befor and after dyno

will probably be posting a lot of "opinion" post before buying parts, want to only do this once so want to buy parts that are known to work well and combos that are proven to work


cant wait tell feb/mar of 2010 my car will be a whole new beast
then i can start saving up for body parts and paint

[superbean]

I think with a quality 24 lb calibrated maf, the tune wont be necessary. Playing with fuel pressure should be adequate.

[baine21225]

I think i'd use some 30# injectors just for some room to grow, and a chip and dyno is great for a baseline to track tune from......there is some good info in here, dont know how i missed it?

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by superbean That's what I like to hear. Why build a car if you can't drive it on the street? But yes, constantly spinning a car to 7k rpm does wear out a lot of expensive parts..

Exactly my thinking. I'll never own a car I can't drive on the street.....daily.

The rpm isn't what necessarily wrecks the parts. There are plenty of factory engines that have 7000+ rpm peaks. A more common issue is valve spring wear. Big solid roller cams and high spring pressures combined with alot of street driving will wear out valve springs quicker than just racing on the weekends. I replaced valve springs in my black car 2-3 times a year as routine maintenence. I didn't have a problem with that because I wanted a fast street car and wanted to show the world that you could daily drive a car of that caliber. I wish I wouldn't have sold it......

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by stfudvs what about us who have to pass emissions, i see a lot of race parts that will not allow me to pass emissions if people keep arguing when i post questions i may just start pm'ing you and mustank with all my questions

If you have to pass emissions, then you have to pick parts carefully. I can't offer much help there because I've never tried to go fast and pass emissions.

[superbean]

If your building an emissions car, pick parts with a carb number and then spray it. Take the bottle off for inspection, very easy..

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 Here's another scenario that I have experience with. 347, pump gas, TFS R-series heads, custom solid roller, Trick Flow box intake and 2" primary headers with 3 1/2" collectors and 3 1/2" exhaust. Now based on the bigger equals high rpm power theory this engine should be a turd down low, right? Big runners, big headers, big solid cam, big box intake and small cubic inch should make for no low end power, right? This set up made 423rwhp at 6100 rpm and 403rwtq at 4500 rpm. It had power all over the place. This is totally untuned as well. No chip, no timing or fuel pressure changes either. This was a single baseline dyno pull. The timing and fuel pressure was done off the dyno which is another topic that will probably open up a new can of worms with the dyno lovers.

A stroked motor is a complete different animal then a stocker when talking about long vs short runner intake choices wouldn't you agree?

I understand what your saying, there's tons of bs out there on the net and shit published in mmff but from what I have seen first hand. Throwing a box intake on a stock motor is a waste of money.

Originally Posted by econobarn Hi, I'm econobarn. This is my first post. I drive a 17 second 4 banger chevy pickup that traps at 81mph and I'm tired of misinformation and stupid on the internet. Anyone who is debating with 1slo5.0 and 93mustank on this issue really needs to go back to the drawing boards and re-learn engine theory. How is inhibiting flow in any fashion going to create power? It can't unless you live in imagination land. Do you live in imagination land, flyin ryan?

LOL if I lived in imagination land i'd prob be proud to say that I drive a 17 second pickup and have mastered graphing/plotting

Viscosity

to original poster.. if you run the box intake be sure to contact who ever made your cam and see what they suggest you using to maximize your combo.

[stfudvs]

Originally Posted by superbean If your building an emissions car, pick parts with a carb number and then spray it. Take the bottle off for inspection, very easy..

i have never used nos befor, i have heard its bad for your car, and scares me
i thought about turbo, but decided for now i want n/a power

was thinking about the 30#ers but wasnt sure if it was practical or excessive


should uprade my driveline/draveshaft, im worried that with my 20 year old stock car adding all this stuff at once i would romp on it and likley kill them, or my transmission

thoughts ?

[93mustank]

Flyin ryan will you post up some of your all motor combos along with 1/4 times? Thanks

[93mustank]

Originally Posted by stfudvs i have never used nos befor, i have heard its bad for your car, and scares me i thought about turbo, but decided for now i want n/a power was thinking about the 30#ers but wasnt sure if it was practical or excessive should uprade my driveline/draveshaft, im worried that with my 20 year old stock car adding all this stuff at once i would romp on it and likley kill them, or my transmission thoughts ?

If you need info you can pm me.....weird....I have owned these parts.........

[stfudvs]

Originally Posted by flyin ryan from what I have seen first hand. Throwing a box intake on a stock motor is a waste of money.

seeing my combo do you think it will be a waste or give me a good power range?

[stfudvs]

Originally Posted by 93mustank .Beat a Z06 the other day.

legit

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by flyin ryan A stroked motor is a complete different animal then a stocker when talking about long vs short runner intake choices wouldn't you agree? I understand what your saying, there's tons of bs out there on the net and shit published in mmff but from what I have seen first hand. Throwing a box intake on a stock motor is a waste of money.

So if it was a 351W then it would be a bad choice but on a stroked 302 it is a good choice? If the engine was a 302 with the same cam, heads, compression and headers I still would have used the box intake and it would have made enough power that people would have swore it was stroked.


Nobody is talking about using a box intake on a stock engine.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 93mustank Flyin ryan will you post up some of your all motor combos along with 1/4 times? Thanks

Power adder combos too. List all of them. Maybe we all should.

[baine21225]

Can I post daddy's cars times? . . . . I drive it at the track occasionally, so that counts right?

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by 93mustank Flyin ryan will you post up some of your all motor combos along with 1/4 times? Thanks

haha I've been bugging you for info and haven't seen chit but now I have to put out

Originally Posted by stfudvs seeing my combo do you think it will be a waste or give me a good power range?

It all comes down to what cam you run with those heads/box.. I've seen people throw a box intake on a car that previously was setup for a long runner intake and they weren't happy with where the power band was for dd street use. Which is all i've been trying to say.

Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 Power adder combos too. List all of them. Maybe we all should.

I think that's a good idea, start a thread and i'll post in that when I can but not in this guys thread. It'll only drag this pissing match on even longer

[econobarn]

Originally Posted by flyin ryan haha I've been bugging you for info and haven't seen chit but now I have to put out

...I guess flyin ryan really does live in imagination land.

[superbean]

Originally Posted by stfudvs i have never used nos befor, i have heard its bad for your car, and scares me i thought about turbo, but decided for now i want n/a power was thinking about the 30#ers but wasnt sure if it was practical or excessive should uprade my driveline/draveshaft, im worried that with my 20 year old stock car adding all this stuff at once i would romp on it and likley kill them, or my transmission thoughts ?

Nitrous is only bad if it is used incorrectly. Key to a nitrous setup is not to cheap out when setting it up.

Most Wet systems will work with only a timing change. Example.. running a 75 wet shot, it will provide fuel as well as no2. To run a small shot like a 75, just throw a timing light on the motor and pull 2 or 3 degees of timing and run good gas.

Factory pistons will handle the abuse just fine.. the block will prob split before the bottom end lets go.

Now slapping a 200 dry shot on a stock motor with no timing changings is a good way to put a few holes in some pistons.

If your interested I have a complete dry kit. Jetted for a 75 shot, has fogger nozzle, braided 15 ft line, 10 lb brand new NOS brand bottle (half full still), nitrous solenoid, and wot switch with wiring. I'll let it go cheap to a MM member. This kit can be converted to a wet system for the cost of the fuel line and fuel solenoid (<100 bucks)

[stfudvs]

good offer but to much going on at the moment to think about nos

i have thought about it, 75 wet at wot seems to be along the line of what i would do