[ddarkslayer]

I live in california and I am cirious on if I where to use nitrous would it destroy my catalytic converters and If I decide to stop using nitrous how could I remove the nitrous residue that sits from my engine

[1slo5.0]

No.

[cusp]

Originally Posted by ddarkslayer I live in california and I am cirious on if I where to use nitrous would it destroy my catalytic converters and If I decide to stop using nitrous how could I remove the nitrous residue that sits from my engine

Wont leave residue. Its basically an oxidizer. Nitrogen N2, is inert and is the gas 78 percent of our air is composed of. but the Oxygen loosely bound to it is not. All though, it may contribute to more NO in the exhaust while its being sprayed. My guess. I have a good idea that a Nitrous system connected to your engine will fail the visual inspection. I don't have one so I don't have any direct experience.

[89Domindart]

Never had any prob w my smog, I ran a 125 shot of dry.

[1989Gt.]

noob question whats the difference between wet and dry

[80mustang200]

One shot is WET and one is DRY not to sound like a smart ass

[MOTOIMPAIRED]

Originally Posted by 1989Gt. noob question whats the difference between wet and dry

Wet versus Dry
I'm sure you've heard the terms "wet kit" and "dry kit." Actually, let me start with a rant on the "kit" part. A kit is a bunch of nitrous components packaged together by any of the usual vendors, and sold as one item. Typically, these are completely devoid of safety devices, so that they can be sold at a cheap price. This is where the "$600 nitrous kit" idea comes from. While these are fine for getting lots of the basic parts, they are horrible from a safety perspective, and can easily damage your motor. Get the appropriate safety devices and add them to your kit, if you go that way. I'll be calling a complete setup a "system" here.

On to the wet and dry discussion. A "wet system" is a nitrous system which mixes nitrous and fuel, and feeds it (in a "fog") into the intake. A "dry system" only feeds nitrous into the intake, and tricks the existing fuel system to add the fuel. In an LS1 car, this is done via the MAF sensing the colder intake temperature as nitrous is fed through it. In an LT1 car, a dry system typically adds adds about 50 psi of pressure to the vacuum nipple of the stock fuel pressure regulator, increasing the fuel pressure to about 90 psi, and driving more fuel through (hopefully upgraded) fuel injectors via the muscle of the add-on fuel pump.

[1989Gt.]

ok ok i got you now alright thanks man

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 1989Gt. noob question whats the difference between wet and dry

The search feature is your friend. I've posted this a thousand times already and I guess I'll post it again.


The first thing to clarify is "dry" when talking about nitrous oxide kits refers to the fuel being introduced separate from the nitrous. In other words the fuel and nitrous are not mixed together like in traditional nitrous systems. Dry does not mean no fuel or lean or anything else. It simply means the nitrous is injected separately from the fuel. Carbureted intake manifolds are designed to flow air and fuel so nitrous plate system really have no major issues with carbureted applications. However, EFI intakes are designed to flow air and air only. This presents problems when using traditional "wet" nitrous systems. Most EFI intakes have long runners, dips and valleys where fuel could potentially "puddle" and create a major backfire. This problem is typical with wet systems that use a plate that is sandwiched between the throttle body and intake and also wet systems that use a nozzle mounted in the intake or the air inlet tube before the throttle body. The problem doesn't seem to be as common with wet systems that use a plate that is mounted between the upper and lower intake.

EFI fuel pressure regulators work on a 1:1 ratio with fuel versus air pressure. That means placing 1 lb of pressure on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator will increase fuel pressure by 1 psi. A dry nitrous kit uses a reduced amount of nitrous pressure to increase fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator. Since nitrous bottle pressure is usually 900-1000 psi it needs to be reduced because 900-1000 psi is obviously too much fuel pressure and will cause a plethora of problems. Dry kits use a T with a restriction or jet inside in the line from the fuel pressure regulator that connects the fuel pressure regulator with manifold vacuum at one end and nitrous oxide pressure at the other end. This way the regulator will function normally when the nitrous system is not being used. A larger jet or restriction in the T will create less fuel pressure while a smaller jet or restriction will create more fuel pressure which is opposite of traditional nitrous jetting...something to keep in mind when tuning a dry system.
With a dry system there is no risk of fuel puddling backfires like there is with wet systems and you don't have to plumb fuel lines for a fuel enrichment since the fuel injectors handle the fuel demands. Dry systems start off rich and then bring the nitrous in to lean the mixture out to where it needs to be. Wet systems can sometimes start lean and then go rich because the nitrous is under alot higher pressure than the fuel is so nitrous will usually get to the engine before the fuel does. Dry systems don't come on as hard from the start as wet systems do which can be beneficial for off the line traction. There are some drawbacks to dry nitrous systems though which are not very common. There have been a few cases of the rubber fuel rail connecting lines rupturing. I don't think this is an issue with the NOS-05115-II kit because the fuel pressure only spikes to about 80-90 psi but other kits that are designed differently see fuel pressure spikes as high as 125 psi. This line rupturing problem could also happen if with worn or rotted rubber hose. There can be cylinder distribution problems with dry systems. The fuel itself is pretty equal cylinder to cylinder but nitrous distribution problems can occur do to distribution issues with intake manifolds. Some cylinders might be rich while others might be lean. However, even carbureted plate systems for Fords have this issue. Most noteably with #1 and #5 cylinders. Chances are most people won't have any negative issues with distribution unless they start messing with custom nitrous tune ups involving larger amounts of nitrous.

I'm a big fan of the Nitrous Oxide Systems NOS-05115-IINOS kit. The kit is very reliable and user friendly. I feel it is the safest nitrous system on the market and I haven't heard anyone else say otherwise. The kit comes with all of the necessary components and an inline high flow fuel pump and has several safety features built in. It costs more than most other Mustang nitrous kits but as the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for". Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) has been researching and developing Mustang EFI dry kits since the first EFI Mustangs rolled out of the Ford plant. The NOS-05115-IINOS kit incorporates a Hobbs switch (fuel safety shut off switch) which does not allow the nitrous system to activate until fuel pressure is above 55 psi and also shuts the nitrous system off in case of a drop in fuel pressure. The NOS kit also comes equipped with two nitrous solenoids which both need to open before nitrous oxide will be injected into the engine. When the first one opens it sends a signal to the fuel pressure regulator which then raises the fuel pressure. Once the fuel pressure gets to 55 psi, the Hobbs switch will open the second solenoid which will then inject the nitrous into the engine. Most other kits don't have this feature. The NOS kit also uses two jets, one for nitrous and one in the bleed off T where most other kits have a fixed restriction for a bleed off hole instead of a jet. Having a fixed restriction means you can not tune the fuel pressure like you can with the NOS brand kit so as you increase the nitrous jet size you are leaning the system out and have no way to add fuel to compensate. Another benefit to the NOS kit is by design if the bottle pressure is decreased (due to temperature, bottle getting empty, etc.) the amount of fuel pressure is also reduced. This is due to the nitrous pressure regulator that NOS uses with this kit. Most other brands don't have this feature because the kits are simpler in design, hence the cheaper prices. Most of these other brands also have a pretty harsh initial fuel spike that is high enough to burst the rubber hose that connects the fuel rails. NOS offers two versions of this kit. The NOS-05115NOS kit is a non adjustable 75hp nitrous system. NOS does make an upgrade kit for this kit which converts it to an adjustable kit up to 150hp. The part number for the upgrade kit is NOS-0016NOS. NOS also makes a Stage II kit which is adjustable from 75-150hp and comes with an inline high flow fuel pump. The part number for this kit is NOS-05115-IINOS. You can get creative with these kits just like any other nitrous system. As the kits stands, it will support 175hp. With the addition of larger fuel injectors, larger nitrous solenoids, larger nitrous nozzle line (to replace the small -3 line) and larger nozzle, 300+ horsepower has been made with this kit.

Other info about this kit. Recently NOS has gone to the fixed T design with a .42 orfice and is non adjustable but is designed to work with all horsepower levels that the kit was originally intended for. This was due to production costs as well as liabilities. The solution to this is to find an older adjustable T from a parts store, classifieds or Ebay. Also, if you run more than 1000 psi bottle pressure you can damage the internals of the nitrous pressure regulator and cause it to not work. With a dry kit, make sure your injectors are big enough for your overall horsepower level otherwise your engine won't get enough fuel. It is also important to keep fuel pressure below 100 psi because typical fuel injectors will lock open above 100 psi. The solenoids of the NOS dry kit will only support 175hp.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by 80mustang200 One shot is WET and one is DRY not to sound like a smart ass

That isn't anywhere near factual. What is dry and how is it dry? What is wet and how is it wet?

[ddarkslayer]

ha don't forget the fog system

[ddarkslayer]

is a stock block strong enough take nitrous

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by 1slo5.0 That isn't anywhere near factual. What is dry and how is it dry? What is wet and how is it wet?

somthing dry is not wet. If its wet, it cant be dry. unless it is a shop vac.

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by ddarkslayer is a stock block strong enough take nitrous

Yes......a small amount anyway. 200hp and less depending on how much horsepower the engine makes.

[ddarkslayer]

how many shots are safe for stock

[1slo5.0]

Originally Posted by ddarkslayer how many shots are safe for stock

What??????

[superbean]

after 20 shots of the good shit you stagger around a little

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by superbean after 20 shots of the good shit you stagger around a little

Shit, 4 will do me in.

[817B!GT3X]

Originally Posted by superbean after 20 shots of the good shit you stagger around a little

So the motor won't have anymore balls?

[JBIGBOOTSY]

Originally Posted by superbean after 20 money shots of the good shit you stagger around a little

Ewwww Gross man!