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Discussing Rear main seal leainking in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. My rear main seal has been leaking for a while. The engine has around 6000 ...

       

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Old February 12th, 2007, 09:51 PM   #1
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Rear main seal leainking


My rear main seal has been leaking for a while. The engine has around 6000 miles on it. So while the clutch was being replaced, the rear main seal was also replaced. That got done today. My car was delivered to my house today while I was at work. When I drove up to my house, I notice a spot of oil underneth the car. After being replace it still leaks. I think I have to much crankcase pressure. What can I do ? I do have one breather on the passenger side valve cover. Every once and a while the dip stick will be pushed up from the pressure. Oh yea, I running around 14 psi of boost.
But not today. Not with the new clutch. Its a 1993 ford Mustang. 508 rwhp.
Any suggestions? I'm thinking I have to live with the oil leak.
 

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Old February 12th, 2007, 09:57 PM   #2
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do u have a crankcase breather
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Old February 12th, 2007, 10:23 PM   #3
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Do you have breathers in both valve covers?
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Old February 12th, 2007, 10:44 PM   #4
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Crankcase breather?
Only the passenger side valve cover has a breather.
 
Old February 12th, 2007, 10:47 PM   #5
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Put one in the drivers side too... And make sure its baffled also otherwise oil will shoot out.
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Old February 21st, 2007, 11:48 AM   #6
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I would run two hoses off the valve covers from the breather holes into an oil accumulator(catch can) with a breather.
 
Old February 21st, 2007, 12:45 PM   #7
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Then he would be rebuilding that pressure again... Stangzilla's right. yeah i got a BS autozone breather and i have oil spalltering all over the place. I'm about to replace my cam again and new rockers and lifters so maybe I can restore my crankcase pressure now the car will be able to breather a little wider and better.

Crankcase = Where you put your oil in.
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Old February 21st, 2007, 02:02 PM   #8
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I'll have to remove the upper gt-40 intake to get the the drivers side valve cover and drill a hole in it for another breather.
Thanks for the help.
 
Old February 21st, 2007, 02:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by demononwheels
I'll have to remove the upper gt-40 intake to get the the drivers side valve cover and drill a hole in it for another breather.
Thanks for the help.
DON'T DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Buy another breather for your car and take off the filler cap. Add your groomet and place your breather in it. Don't drill any holes into the valve covers it's usless. They make stuff for that!
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Old February 21st, 2007, 02:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by GTXRacing
Originally Posted by demononwheels
I'll have to remove the upper gt-40 intake to get the the drivers side valve cover and drill a hole in it for another breather.
Thanks for the help.
DON'T DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Buy another breather for your car and take off the filler cap. Add your groomet and place your breather in it. Don't drill any holes into the valve covers it's usless. They make stuff for that!
Maybe I'm misunderstood what you said but nothing on this motor is factory. I have Comps Cams Composite valve cover on my motor and where the filler tube is located on the factory valve covers, is where my breather is on my new comps covers. That is the only breather/oil filler spot I have. Here is a link of a pic of the motor before it was put in http://amarilloracers.com/phpBB2/alb...php?pic_id=575.
If I'm still misunderstanding, you might have to draw me a picture...LOL.
I'm new at this so bare twith me. Its only my second hardcore year.
Here is a link of the dyno of my car http://amarilloracers.vidiac.com/mos...b226b8b0b8.htm

Thanks again
 
Old February 21st, 2007, 02:41 PM   #11
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Now that's a nice engine... I wish I had $10,000 to spare...

No it's ok man, I actually misunderstood what you said to tell the truth, you did ay "Drivers Side... Yeah looks like you have no choice but to drill until the damn thing. Hell it's new parts... I hate to see a brand baby spaking new engine get cut into so early but no choice.

But hell, you still might have to do that, get some other type of valve covers that you can see where the fitting is, and maybe, just maybe you might not have to do that. Then you can sell your valve covers from that engine to me LOL kiddin, but you could sell em to make something back. since you wouldn't need em.
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Old February 21st, 2007, 05:44 PM   #13
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I see you dont have much room with that GT-40 intake to install a breather. You should look into the Spyder Intake from Coast High Performance. I have one on my car and for ease of working on the car it is the best money I ever spent. It works good on my 347 N/A motor but they work better than just about every intake on the market with a S/C or turbo. Of course not as good as a sheet metal intake but better than the mass market ones. Check them out...
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Old February 21st, 2007, 05:51 PM   #14
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Now that's a nice engine bay!! LOL

How much was that rear seat delete kit?
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Old February 21st, 2007, 06:25 PM   #15
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Made it myself.
I think I paid 30.00 on ebay for instructions on how to make it.
The seller sent me a pattern or telpate of the two pieces of plywood I needed to cut along with pictures and a list of materials I need.
I can't remember his name but try this e-mail address
betrezra@aol.com
ask about BETR-Rear-Seat-Delete-(BRSD) template and instructions instead of the kit.
I looked on ebay just now and it seems he's making them and selling them completly made.
Hope this helps
 
Old February 21st, 2007, 06:30 PM   #16
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How bad is it leaking. I know it is a common thing in high mileage cars but you said yours has 6000 miles. Mine will not hold oil for 3000 miles. But it doesnt leave pools of oil either. But my seal is leaking a bit too.
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Old February 21st, 2007, 06:36 PM   #17
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I got an RCI Fuel cell in my beast. Sucks gas much smoother and car doesen't sound like it's starving and burping
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http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...vehicle&CID=43
 
Old February 21st, 2007, 06:39 PM   #18
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I know what I wrote on my Subject post, but it's more a drip. When it stops, the oil spot is about the size is a silver dollar. You can't actually see it dripping or leaking.
The dripping starts after being run and has sat for about 30 min.
Just pisses me off. Its my fault.
 
Old February 21st, 2007, 06:49 PM   #19
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I still have the factory tank in mine. I have a 255 lph forced induction pump inside the tank and a t-rex inline fuel pump. Along with factory fuel rails, adjustable fuel regulator and 42lb injectors, I've hade no problems.
 
Old February 21st, 2007, 06:52 PM   #20
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I have a set of Vortech fuel rails and Aeromotive a1000 pump but have never needed it.
 
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