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Old October 12th, 2009, 01:41 AM   #1
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runs pretty good with boost


Me being at the age of 18 and two of my other buddies one also 18 the other in his early twentys threw on the vortech v-3 supercharger kit in about 12 hours with a couple minor set backs but after all was in we took it for a drive.. toally different car..the elevation here is around 5,200 ft above sea level and now whenever i get on it in first its just a waste it just blows the tires off, in second it pulls hella hard on top end..i havent got to do a third gear through fifth pull, because lack of a wideband to read air to fuel ratio..dont want to blow it up so want to get a wideband before doing long pulls building boost..the motor in the car is a 93 cobra motor with an explorer intake, full exhaust, 3.73's and the vortech is pushing right around 7-8 psi but there are kinks in the vacum line so maybe a little more..gets wheelspin in second at higher rpms when in good boost...i love it ..it screams compared to a basically stock car. Boost is awesome...but was just wondering if anyone out there could tell me a good place to take my car in order to get in tuned professionally in COLORADO..any advice is weel taken, wideband should be in by next weekend...hoping for high twelevs with traction at an elevation of 5,800ft (track higher than my house) above sea level and a air density of about 7,600 ft on most days..but yea any advice on a good shop in colorado to get it tuned would be awesome thanx guys and thanx vortech v-3 internally lubricated superchargers

Last edited by b-on-b 5.0 : October 12th, 2009 at 01:43 AM.
 

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Old October 12th, 2009, 03:02 PM   #2
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what injectors are you using? have you done any changes to the timing for fuel pressure?
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Old October 12th, 2009, 04:19 PM   #3
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injectors, fuel pump, fmu(only until you get a tune), wideband...just a few things you should look at
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Old October 12th, 2009, 04:41 PM   #4
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lower the compression ratio?
 
Old October 12th, 2009, 06:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ddarkslayer View Post
lower the compression ratio?
stock is fine
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Old October 12th, 2009, 10:29 PM   #6
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24 lbs injectors kit came with msd boost retard and boost control,it retards timing as you build boost and it came with a t-trex fuel pump and an fmu it was everything i needed..no bigger injectors were needed, because the fmu make us for the fuel pressure
 
Old October 12th, 2009, 11:04 PM   #7
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the fmu is a band aid, you still need to get it tuned
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Old October 13th, 2009, 12:02 AM   #8
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should have went turbo...
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Old October 13th, 2009, 12:33 AM   #9
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sweet build
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Old October 13th, 2009, 12:50 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by baine21225 View Post
the fmu is a band aid, you still need to get it tuned
I agree.. when funds allow please throw the fmu out and put bigger injectors in.
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Old October 13th, 2009, 01:11 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by EscortSportage View Post
should have went turbo...
don't be a dick, the guy is excited
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Old October 13th, 2009, 01:14 AM   #12
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There are two poeple I can recommend...

Greg and Johnny at Finishline Performance are great. (303) 428-4660 Tell them Matt Lunsford sent ya...

They are up by rockies auto... 64th and fedral...

then other is

Scott Patten at P&P Performance. P&Performance | 303.956.8734 He tunes at Dyno Pro aswell up there where Finish Line is. Can tell him Scott Sherret's and Lee's friend Matt Lunsford sent ya

BTW what part of Lakewood you in? I have probably seen your car... Im 18 too BTW


And I sure as hell wish most race days on Saturdays at Bandimere were 7600... they are normally around 8900...
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Last edited by MustangMatt96GT : October 13th, 2009 at 01:18 AM.
 
Old October 13th, 2009, 04:24 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by EscortSportage View Post
should have went turbo...
bahahahahha, have you ever even driven a boosted fox body?
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Old October 13th, 2009, 10:01 AM   #14
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There's nothing wrong with an FMU with a SC at your boost and power level. Band-aid or not, they are a very simple design, cheap, and they work as intended.
My opinion, 30# injectors and an FMU is a cheap and reliable way to support 450 RWHP which is the point where your stock block is at risk. Anything more than that and I'd say a new block and the correct injectors with a stand alone, neither of which is cheap at all
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Last edited by nolife : October 13th, 2009 at 10:40 AM.
 
Old October 13th, 2009, 12:33 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by EscortSportage View Post
should have went turbo...
ha ha says the asshole with a intake,exhaust fox, with a ricer burnout in his avy.....
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Old October 13th, 2009, 02:44 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by EscortSportage View Post
should have went turbo...
You have asked so many questions about it you should be a pro a turbo motors now. What are you running on your car again? The kids excited as he should be, and you come in and make a remark like that..

Anyways congrats on the new setup, sounds like its going to be pretty wicked once she is tuned. Did you buy the vortech new or used, and 12 hrs. doesn't sound too bad, or was it a pain in the ass?
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Old October 13th, 2009, 03:58 PM   #17
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The vortech is such an easy install. No directions needed really; however, the tapping of the pan is time consuming.
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Old October 13th, 2009, 04:38 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by nolife View Post
There's nothing wrong with an FMU with a SC at your boost and power level. Band-aid or not, they are a very simple design, cheap, and they work as intended.
My opinion, 30# injectors and an FMU is a cheap and reliable way to support 450 RWHP which is the point where your stock block is at risk. Anything more than that and I'd say a new block and the correct injectors with a stand alone, neither of which is cheap at all
if your worried about supporting 450 rwhp why would you cheap out on injectors and use an fmu? why not do it the right way the first time and that way when you get the tune squared away your done because eitherway 30s/fmu or 42's you'll need a tune in my opinion.
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Old October 13th, 2009, 05:20 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
if your worried about supporting 450 rwhp why would you cheap out on injectors and use an fmu? why not do it the right way the first time and that way when you get the tune squared away your done because eitherway 30s/fmu or 42's you'll need a tune in my opinion.
Because they can reach close to the same goal without using a custom chip or a stand alone?
For me specifically, I am pushing over 450RWHP with 30# and an FMU but cutting it extremely close with A/F. I should probably have around 50# injectors depending on what calculation you use. Can the stock computer with a chip support 50# injectors at the top and idle fine and pass emissions (not everyone has that requirement but I do) or would a stand alone be ideal. I don't know really. I personally have a hard time justifying spending more than $1000 for a stand alone, the tuning, and the correct injectors for an unknown gain in power and drive-ability over what I have now. I feel the $1000+ could be much better spent on something else. I have no doubt at all a good real tune and the right injectors will extract the most potential and drive-ability across the entire rpm range but how much would you really gain and at what cost? With an FMU, you can adjust the slope, base fuel pressure and at what point it starts to increase fuel pressure and you can get a decent tune with them, maybe not perfect but if you know what your doing, it can be good enough. As for the OP, I have no doubt that 24# and FMU with some fine tuning can provide a reliable, drivable experience and depending on how it is tuned, can be very close to the same power and drive-ability with 30# or 42# injectors and a chip. I do get occasional chuckles and comments about my "ghetto FMU" but hey, it works I guess for me it comes down to an opinion on bang for the buck and not a technical reason.
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Last edited by nolife : October 13th, 2009 at 05:33 PM.
 
Old October 13th, 2009, 06:11 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by nolife View Post
Can the stock computer with a chip support 50# injectors at the top and idle fine and pass emissions (not everyone has that requirement but I do) or would a stand alone be ideal
It's all in how the car is tuned.. if you get someone that only tunes WOT then obviously the drive ability will suck. With a custom tune, the tuner has control over all aspects not just fuel pressure and timing so again it's all in the hands of the tuner and how much money/time you want to invest in it.

42lb injectors have been known to have shitty idle quality but I can tell you first hand it comes down to the tuner because my my turbo car with 42lb injectors idles as good if not better then stock and it doesn't have a stock cam.

Originally Posted by nolife View Post
I don't know really. I personally have a hard time justifying spending more than $1000 for a stand alone, the tuning, and the correct injectors for an unknown gain in power and drive-ability over what I have now. I feel the $1000+ could be much better spent on something else. I have no doubt at all a good real tune and the right injectors will extract the most potential and drive-ability across the entire rpm range but how much would you really gain and at what cost?

A tune can net you big gains especially if your combo isn't anywhere near stock and your still relying on the stock ecm to make the adjustments. The factory eec is great for what it is but can only adapt to changes so much. Sure a tune won't be work the cash when we're talkign about a stocker with exhaust mods, intake, tb and larger maf but when you have a car with forced induction or hci build you best to fork out the cash for a good tune or your just wasting your time. Why not get what you paid for out of your parts?

And I picked up my anderson pms series 4 with map off corral.net a year or so ago for my car and paid $650 shipped. Spent $235 in dyno/tuning time with local tuner and the car is a rocket and is driven most everyday pending weather running 92/93 pump gas.
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