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Old October 19th, 2009, 02:52 PM   #1
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Removing heater core loop/Simplifying engine


Im in the process of replacing my head gasket's and studding the head (going turbo).

I have taken that thermactor 'bar' off the back of the heads and plan to plug that, removed the smog pump also, And im going to get an EGR light 'eliminator' So i can remove that also.

Do I need to plug the EGR port in the lower intake manifold?

Also, I want to totally get rid of the heater core pipes, Can I saw the pipe off right after the temp sensor, Turn the assembly around and put the hose onto the sawed off part and clamp it on? There is a small hose going into the lines that's from the back of the lower intake manifold, what is that for?

Can anyone recommend eliminating anything else?
 

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Old October 19th, 2009, 02:53 PM   #2
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pull the solid lines out of the lower intake and toss them, go to ace hardware with the lower intake, take the temp sensor with you and get an adapter so the sensor that was in the heater core line can be screwed straight into the lower intake, then cap that line off on the water pump
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Originally Posted by 93mustank View Post
We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.
 
Old October 19th, 2009, 03:37 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by sniperd View Post
im going to get an EGR light 'eliminator' So i can remove that also.
why? your ecm will see that your egr is malfunctioning and disable it resulting in no check engine light. If you pull error codes ever in the future you will get the error code for a failed egr but it won't hurt anything performance wise or display a check engine light without the "eliminator" just an fyi

You can also remove the TAD and TAB solenoids and the EVAR solenoids and associated vacuum lines.. there bolted to the rear of the passenger side shock tower. They have to do with the smog pump and egr

Originally Posted by sniperd View Post
Do I need to plug the EGR port in the lower intake manifold?
You don't need to plug it but should.. if you don't the upper intake will still get heat soaked

Originally Posted by sniperd View Post
I want to totally get rid of the heater core pipes
Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
pull the solid lines out of the lower intake and toss them, go to ace hardware with the lower intake, take the temp sensor with you and get an adapter so the sensor that was in the heater core line can be screwed straight into the lower intake, then cap that line off on the water pump
What 93hatch said would be the way i'd go if I could totally due without heat.
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Old October 19th, 2009, 07:10 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
pull the solid lines out of the lower intake and toss them, go to ace hardware with the lower intake, take the temp sensor with you and get an adapter so the sensor that was in the heater core line can be screwed straight into the lower intake, then cap that line off on the water pump
Awesome, Thank you.

Im assuming I should just put a metal piece into the hose and clamp it down to cap it? (On the pump end)
 
Old October 19th, 2009, 07:52 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
why? your ecm will see that your egr is malfunctioning and disable it resulting in no check engine light.
I didnt realize that, I already have the metal block off plate so I will just use that, Thanks for the heads up. I wonder why there is so much talk about the CEL being tripped.

Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
You can also remove the TAD and TAB solenoids and the EVAR solenoids and associated vacuum lines.. there bolted to the rear of the passenger side shock tower. They have to do with the smog pump and egr
Is everything in that corner removable? I thought that was all air conditioning stuff.

Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
You don't need to plug it but should.. if you don't the upper intake will still get heat soaked

What 93hatch said would be the way i'd go if I could totally due without heat.
How do I plug it, Do i plug the hole in the lower intake manifold with something?

Heat would be nice, but I live in las vegas, so thats a rare problem, and im resistant to the cold myself.
 
Old October 19th, 2009, 08:29 PM   #6
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When the computer sees the EGR as malfunctioning, I believe it pulls timing at cruise in open loop, but does not effect WOT performance. It would effect gas mileage.
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Old October 20th, 2009, 02:32 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt View Post
When the computer sees the EGR as malfunctioning, I believe it pulls timing at cruise in open loop, but does not effect WOT performance. It would effect gas mileage.
I will have the spout connector off anyway, So it shouldn't hurt me...
 
Old October 20th, 2009, 02:42 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by sniperd View Post
Awesome, Thank you.

Im assuming I should just put a metal piece into the hose and clamp it down to cap it? (On the pump end)
You remove the lil hose. I just went to napa and bought a big vacuum line plug and put a hose clamp at the base of it, never leaked
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Originally Posted by 93mustank View Post
We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.
 
Old October 20th, 2009, 06:32 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
You remove the lil hose. I just went to napa and bought a big vacuum line plug and put a hose clamp at the base of it, never leaked
Cool, Can I just cap the fitting right off the water pump too with some type of a large rubber cap?


How do you cap the lower intake manifold EGR? (Do I do it at the single smaller round passageway in the center of the lower intake?)

Last edited by sniperd : October 20th, 2009 at 06:33 PM. Reason: unsure
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 01:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
You remove the lil hose. I just went to napa and bought a big vacuum line plug and put a hose clamp at the base of it, never leaked
This one you capped, right?
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Removing heater core loop/Simplifying engine-heater-core_removal.jpg  
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 02:09 PM   #11
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If thats the one that goes to those solid lines,yes. I dont remember, been awhile since i looked under the hood of a fox
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Originally Posted by 93mustank View Post
We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 02:11 PM   #12
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heres what the lower looked like with the ect sensor plugged into it, you can see the brass adapter

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Originally Posted by 93mustank View Post
We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 02:11 PM   #13
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nevermind you cant see it, but its screwed into the lower
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Originally Posted by 93mustank View Post
We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 05:27 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
nevermind you cant see it, but its screwed into the lower
Cool, I got the adapter so im good to go. thanks
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 05:35 PM   #15
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I just poked in here for giggle's but sence my question might help this guy....

this black tube that goes to the carbon canister, over the tower, then down the passenger wheel well........ where the fuck does it go!?


(so i can rips it out)


Also, where do these emissions junk go, and how can i rip them out with no ill effect?

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Old November 19th, 2009, 05:44 PM   #16
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That tube in the first picture goes to the gas tank, Just let it vent to the atmosphere, don't cap it (Or if you do get a vented gas cap). However people say it will smell like gas. But mine's off and i haven't smelled any gas.

That second thing is the vacuum tree(s) for all the smog stuff in that back corner, Im taking it all out as we speak.
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 06:16 PM   #17
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maybe ill run the tube in the car so i can huff gas while i dive

thank's for the info
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Old November 19th, 2009, 06:37 PM   #18
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"If you feel yourself getting a little sober, just take a little rip off that tube coming out of the floorboards!"
 
Old November 19th, 2009, 08:00 PM   #19
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I cut my heater tube past the sensor and ran the heater hose to it and got rid of the pipes.fast and easy but i like the cleaner look of capping off and mounting the etc in the intake.
the black vacuum line is for your vents if you plan to use ac system. you can trash the rest but keep in mind the vac ball in the fender keeps the vents from changing to defrost at wide open throttle
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