Project Newbie

under construction · October 30th, 2009, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by ironsteed5.0

US Air Force, but I work around a ton of Canadians

i thank you for your service!

under construction · October 30th, 2009, 12:43 PM

so i figured i'd start gearing up for the start of the project. i pulled the plates off and was going to start it to move it to the place where it will stay for the next year while it's undergoing it's transformation. i get it to start it, batteries dead. so i (the mrs helped) get to push it to it's new home. then i was going to cover it, i lift up the hatch and the struts are no longer any good.....damn that things heavy! i grab the cover and it falls apart (from dry rot i guess)! i'm getting the feeling the car is pretty pissed off about being parked.....LOL

this weekend all of the fluids get drained, battery comes out along with the radiator/radiator supports and whatever else happens to be in that area. we'll see how long that takes and if i have more time i'll grab some other pieces. may look at taking out the headlights since they will DEFINITELY be getting replaced. they are so yellow and fogged over that i can drive around with my brights on nobody cares

and i STILL can't hardly see anything. i'm not even going to attempt the "polish" trick on these......WAY to far gone for that.

Core834 · October 30th, 2009, 01:05 PM

Originally Posted by under construction

i thank you for your service!

hey man like wise..i've been in the canadian forces for about 4 months now.

ironsteed5.0 · October 30th, 2009, 01:48 PM

Im proud to serve fellas, thanks! Good luck to you core!

So I assume you're going to work on the looks department first? It shouldnt take you too long to pull the radiator and all that crap. Pretty simple stuff.

I was lucky enough to buy my stang in excellent condition all around. Im in the process of getting it painted now though. I just ordered my cobra r hood for it yesterday. I can't wait to see how it comes out!

under construction · October 30th, 2009, 03:12 PM

i'm going to do mechanical stuff first, then interior, then paint. while i have the motor pulled apart i'll probably try to do suspension/brakes at the same time. once i get that handled i'll throw on some new weather stripping and do a few things to the interior. the interior is in pretty good shape. i'll need a new driver's seat and couple of the usual odds and ends. at that point i'll have to decide what i'm going to do for paint. my 6 year old wants it to be black (with gray on top to match my hair)......kids these day, no respect

under construction · October 30th, 2009, 03:45 PM

i came across a local ad for a trickflow upper and lower intake for $250. is that a good deal or bad? anything i should look for on a used intake? not sure that i'll go look at it but it might be something work taking a peak at if the price is right.

if i do decide to run some bolt-ons, like this intake set, what else would i need to change? will i need to run different heads? i do plan to add a set of headers and already have flows on the car for exhaust.

baine21225 · October 30th, 2009, 04:11 PM

Thats a pretty decent price, if you look at it, make sure none of the tabs on the corners have not been broken off and "rewelded" because they usually end up breaking off again, if it had just been sitting for a period of time i'm sure there will be cobwebs and other crap in there that you will have to get out, and make sure none of the contacting surfaces are gauged or scratched

baine21225 · October 30th, 2009, 04:12 PM

and if you going to do heads soon, do the upper and lower intake at the same time, no use in wasting a set of gaskets, and the stock e7 heads are VERY restrictive, but you do not need to run different heads

under construction · October 30th, 2009, 04:44 PM

thanx for the input. i'm trying to really watch what i spend on this project. but when the pieces came up, the price seemed pretty good. i don't know if there is a market for stock intake pieces but maybe there is a chance i could sell of those pieces and recoup a bit of the money. if i don't need to do heads, i'll probably stick with stock, understanding that i'm losing a bunch of HP by doing so. i promised my "accountant" that i wasn't going to go bananas with the motor

do you know if that intake will fit under the stock hood?

baine21225 · October 30th, 2009, 05:07 PM

if you don't do a spacer than it should fit, but while you have the intake off i would at least do new valve springs

under construction · October 30th, 2009, 05:15 PM

sounds fair enough. is there anything that can be done to the stock heads since they are going to be off the car? i'm told that i should have the heads "rebuilt". what does that entail? i'm also told i can have the rebuilt for about $80 per head. i'm just not sure what comes with that type of work???

baine21225 · October 30th, 2009, 06:24 PM

Why are you taking the heads off?

under construction · October 30th, 2009, 07:07 PM

maybe i'm going about this the wrong way, but my intention was to tear the motor down and go through it. it's not making any funny noises, it does have a pretty bad oil leak(s) (i realize that's only gaskets/seals) and 186k on the odometer. it will no longer pass smog and according to the print-out, it's running rich at idle and at freeway RPM. i don't believe i need a complete engine rebuild since nothing is broken. i guess it's more preventive than anything else. wouldn't i need to remove the heads to put new valve springs in it? i'm anticipating reusing the same pistons, just putting in new rings? i don't intend to change out the cam or anything like that. or go with any type of forced induction or juice. just a plane-jane 302, possibly with a couple of bolt ons to keep things interesting. am i going about things bass-akwards?? trust me, i'm open to ANY suggestions.

baine21225 · October 30th, 2009, 10:03 PM

this is just my opinion, but if i had a 5.0 engine, and i was already tearing it down, and it has 186,000 on the clock, then i would go ahead and rebuild it. more money yes, but many less headaches down the road. your oil leak (or at least one of them) is likely to be the rear main seal. how do you know it is running rich? do you have a wideband? you can do valve springs with the heads still on, if you take them off you need new head gaskets. wait for a couple more opinions to chime in before you make any decieions. or, call and talk to woody at FordStrokers.com 331-347-393-408-418-427 stroker kits and ford parts. this guy REALLY knows his stuff and wont try to gip you into things that you dont want/need

under construction · October 31st, 2009, 01:24 PM

the only indication i have of it running rich is the printout i got from when i tried to smog it. it failed smog because of the "rich" problem, both at idle and at 2500+/- RPM. you have the same opinion regarding the tear down. with that many miles, and with the couple of problems it currently has i figured the timing was right. i'm just not sure what to actually do or have done to the block. do i punch it out (if so, what do i punch it out to?) or try to leave it as a 302? if it does need to be bored, what costs are involved in having that done (new pistons, machine work, etc)? also, what other parts will need to be purchased if i end up going that route (heads, cam, crank, intakes, etc). i still have plenty of time to research and bug you guys with LOADS of questions since i haven't even started to pull it apart yet

i pulled up the site you listed and the guy definitely has plenty of options. do you have any opinions/personal experience on the different variations of cubic inches? i've heard of the 306s and 347s more than anything else but have zero knowledge/personal experience with them.

88-gt-t-top · October 31st, 2009, 01:50 PM

There's nothing wrong with tearing down your original motor and putting it back together, just be prepaired to fight with it a lot down the road. Large parts distributors have machine shops attached to them, they can clean/hone/bore your block for an affordable price. I agree about the rotating assembly though, if you're already in there(186K+mi.) replace it. either fresh bearings, rings, gaskets etc. or a stroker kit. If your doing the work yourself there are some resonably priced kits out there.
As far as heads and the upper half go, that kind of depends on what you decide to do with the block/internals.

under construction · October 31st, 2009, 02:13 PM

thanx for the advice! "i love it when a plan comes together"

baine21225 · November 1st, 2009, 06:00 PM

1 347 will give you more power/power potential at a (semi) marginally more expensive price.

under construction · November 2nd, 2009, 10:55 AM

it's official now....it's up on jack stands, the radiator is drained and out, the coolant hoses are off, and all of the lights on the front end are off. then i ran out of time. i did take some pics, but have to move them over to my laptop to post them. so far so good....although this is the easy part

88-gt-t-top · November 2nd, 2009, 10:58 AM

true that....

October 30th, 2009, 03:45 PM	#26
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	i came across a local ad for a trickflow upper and lower intake for $250. is that a good deal or bad? anything i should look for on a used intake? not sure that i'll go look at it but it might be something work taking a peak at if the price is right. if i do decide to run some bolt-ons, like this intake set, what else would i need to change? will i need to run different heads? i do plan to add a set of headers and already have flows on the car for exhaust. Last edited by under construction : October 30th, 2009 at 03:54 PM.

October 30th, 2009, 04:11 PM	#27
baine21225 MM Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 3,966	Thats a pretty decent price, if you look at it, make sure none of the tabs on the corners have not been broken off and "rewelded" because they usually end up breaking off again, if it had just been sitting for a period of time i'm sure there will be cobwebs and other crap in there that you will have to get out, and make sure none of the contacting surfaces are gauged or scratched __________________ "Whip out your dick you'll either get it sucked or get smacked..." "That's how Dad did it, that's how America does it... and it's worked out pretty well so far..."

October 30th, 2009, 04:12 PM	#28
baine21225 MM Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 3,966	and if you going to do heads soon, do the upper and lower intake at the same time, no use in wasting a set of gaskets, and the stock e7 heads are VERY restrictive, but you do not need to run different heads __________________ "Whip out your dick you'll either get it sucked or get smacked..." "That's how Dad did it, that's how America does it... and it's worked out pretty well so far..."

October 30th, 2009, 05:07 PM	#30
baine21225 MM Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 3,966	if you don't do a spacer than it should fit, but while you have the intake off i would at least do new valve springs __________________ "Whip out your dick you'll either get it sucked or get smacked..." "That's how Dad did it, that's how America does it... and it's worked out pretty well so far..."

October 30th, 2009, 06:24 PM	#32
baine21225 MM Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 3,966	Why are you taking the heads off? __________________ "Whip out your dick you'll either get it sucked or get smacked..." "That's how Dad did it, that's how America does it... and it's worked out pretty well so far..."

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October 30th, 2009, 12:43 PM	#22
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	so i figured i'd start gearing up for the start of the project. i pulled the plates off and was going to start it to move it to the place where it will stay for the next year while it's undergoing it's transformation. i get it to start it, batteries dead. so i (the mrs helped) get to push it to it's new home. then i was going to cover it, i lift up the hatch and the struts are no longer any good.....damn that things heavy! i grab the cover and it falls apart (from dry rot i guess)! i'm getting the feeling the car is pretty pissed off about being parked.....LOL this weekend all of the fluids get drained, battery comes out along with the radiator/radiator supports and whatever else happens to be in that area. we'll see how long that takes and if i have more time i'll grab some other pieces. may look at taking out the headlights since they will DEFINITELY be getting replaced. they are so yellow and fogged over that i can drive around with my brights on nobody cares and i STILL can't hardly see anything. i'm not even going to attempt the "polish" trick on these......WAY to far gone for that.

October 30th, 2009, 01:48 PM	#24
ironsteed5.0 Regular 91' 5.0 LX Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 101	Im proud to serve fellas, thanks! Good luck to you core! So I assume you're going to work on the looks department first? It shouldnt take you too long to pull the radiator and all that crap. Pretty simple stuff. I was lucky enough to buy my stang in excellent condition all around. Im in the process of getting it painted now though. I just ordered my cobra r hood for it yesterday. I can't wait to see how it comes out!

October 30th, 2009, 03:12 PM	#25
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	i'm going to do mechanical stuff first, then interior, then paint. while i have the motor pulled apart i'll probably try to do suspension/brakes at the same time. once i get that handled i'll throw on some new weather stripping and do a few things to the interior. the interior is in pretty good shape. i'll need a new driver's seat and couple of the usual odds and ends. at that point i'll have to decide what i'm going to do for paint. my 6 year old wants it to be black (with gray on top to match my hair)......kids these day, no respect

October 30th, 2009, 04:44 PM	#29
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	thanx for the input. i'm trying to really watch what i spend on this project. but when the pieces came up, the price seemed pretty good. i don't know if there is a market for stock intake pieces but maybe there is a chance i could sell of those pieces and recoup a bit of the money. if i don't need to do heads, i'll probably stick with stock, understanding that i'm losing a bunch of HP by doing so. i promised my "accountant" that i wasn't going to go bananas with the motor do you know if that intake will fit under the stock hood?

October 30th, 2009, 05:15 PM	#31
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	sounds fair enough. is there anything that can be done to the stock heads since they are going to be off the car? i'm told that i should have the heads "rebuilt". what does that entail? i'm also told i can have the rebuilt for about $80 per head. i'm just not sure what comes with that type of work???

October 30th, 2009, 07:07 PM	#33
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	maybe i'm going about this the wrong way, but my intention was to tear the motor down and go through it. it's not making any funny noises, it does have a pretty bad oil leak(s) (i realize that's only gaskets/seals) and 186k on the odometer. it will no longer pass smog and according to the print-out, it's running rich at idle and at freeway RPM. i don't believe i need a complete engine rebuild since nothing is broken. i guess it's more preventive than anything else. wouldn't i need to remove the heads to put new valve springs in it? i'm anticipating reusing the same pistons, just putting in new rings? i don't intend to change out the cam or anything like that. or go with any type of forced induction or juice. just a plane-jane 302, possibly with a couple of bolt ons to keep things interesting. am i going about things bass-akwards?? trust me, i'm open to ANY suggestions.

October 30th, 2009, 10:03 PM	#34
baine21225 MM Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 3,966	this is just my opinion, but if i had a 5.0 engine, and i was already tearing it down, and it has 186,000 on the clock, then i would go ahead and rebuild it. more money yes, but many less headaches down the road. your oil leak (or at least one of them) is likely to be the rear main seal. how do you know it is running rich? do you have a wideband? you can do valve springs with the heads still on, if you take them off you need new head gaskets. wait for a couple more opinions to chime in before you make any decieions. or, call and talk to woody at FordStrokers.com 331-347-393-408-418-427 stroker kits and ford parts. this guy REALLY knows his stuff and wont try to gip you into things that you dont want/need __________________ "Whip out your dick you'll either get it sucked or get smacked..." "That's how Dad did it, that's how America does it... and it's worked out pretty well so far..."

October 31st, 2009, 01:24 PM	#35
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	the only indication i have of it running rich is the printout i got from when i tried to smog it. it failed smog because of the "rich" problem, both at idle and at 2500+/- RPM. you have the same opinion regarding the tear down. with that many miles, and with the couple of problems it currently has i figured the timing was right. i'm just not sure what to actually do or have done to the block. do i punch it out (if so, what do i punch it out to?) or try to leave it as a 302? if it does need to be bored, what costs are involved in having that done (new pistons, machine work, etc)? also, what other parts will need to be purchased if i end up going that route (heads, cam, crank, intakes, etc). i still have plenty of time to research and bug you guys with LOADS of questions since i haven't even started to pull it apart yet i pulled up the site you listed and the guy definitely has plenty of options. do you have any opinions/personal experience on the different variations of cubic inches? i've heard of the 306s and 347s more than anything else but have zero knowledge/personal experience with them.

October 31st, 2009, 02:13 PM	#37
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	thanx for the advice! "i love it when a plan comes together"

November 1st, 2009, 06:00 PM	#38
baine21225 MM Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 3,966	1 347 will give you more power/power potential at a (semi) marginally more expensive price. __________________ "Whip out your dick you'll either get it sucked or get smacked..." "That's how Dad did it, that's how America does it... and it's worked out pretty well so far..."

November 2nd, 2009, 10:55 AM	#39
under construction Regular '87 GT Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 55	it's official now....it's up on jack stands, the radiator is drained and out, the coolant hoses are off, and all of the lights on the front end are off. then i ran out of time. i did take some pics, but have to move them over to my laptop to post them. so far so good....although this is the easy part

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