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Discussing 1988 5.0 wont start when warm and sits for a few minutes in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. I have a 1988 mustang gt 5.0 atomatic, and if you drive then shut ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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1988 5.0 wont start when warm and sits for a few minutes
I have a 1988 mustang gt 5.0 atomatic, and if you drive then shut it of for 10 min to 30 it tries to start but does some light pops and revs and then dies after a short while and 6 or more tries you can usually force it to start. Today it did it while and it would not start and the exhaust where it bolts to the manifold got red hot. It looks like there is a cat right there?.
What might cause this and what to do to fix it? Thanks |
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#2 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Greenville, Texas
Posts: 734
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Check your timing...
What kind of setup you have?
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THE BEAST IS FOR SALE!!! GTX RACING & PERFORMACE CLUB OF TEXAS Meets and greets, drag racing and good eats, you know you want it. GTX Racing Tony P. 214-257-3635 http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...vehicle&CID=43 |
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lookin' at you in my rearview
Posts: 516
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check ur egr valve. might be bad
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
95 opalfrost gt
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,076
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Do you still have the stock H pipe? Might be a clogged cat.
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#5 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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Stock setup. I will check timming.
Thanks |
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#6 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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I will also check egr.
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#7 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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I do not have the stock h pipe but the are the 2 cats that come almost directly off the manifolds.
I have had 3 people I know say it sounds like the cats are clogged. So Iam goimg to take them off and hollow them out and put them back on and see what happens then. thanks |
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#8 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 906
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If you have a stock setup, before you destroy your cats, it may be worth unbolting your headers at the collector and trying to crank it up with open headers. If it cranks up and runs fine like that, I would think your problem is somewhere past the collector.
Just my thoughts on a little more diagnosis. . . |
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#9 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Greenville, Texas
Posts: 734
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mikebert is right, but if you don't want to spend the extra energy and time, check the codes. If no code, replace your cats anyway. Get some high flow cats from the summit catalog.
__________________
THE BEAST IS FOR SALE!!! GTX RACING & PERFORMACE CLUB OF TEXAS Meets and greets, drag racing and good eats, you know you want it. GTX Racing Tony P. 214-257-3635 http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...vehicle&CID=43 |
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#10 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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I already did the cats and it ran great but died once of ter driving 7 or 8 miles, and restarted on test drive and then went a couple more miles and died after starting from a stop. I went to restart it and it let out very loud back fire. I waited about a minute then got it to restart ran a little rough for about 4 blocks and then ran fine all the way home about 5 or 6miles. I let it sit for about 5 or a little more minutes and it restarted an ran great when before it would not start for an hour or more.
So I do not know if it is fixed or if there is another problem or maybe the same problem still is there. I will drive it some more and see and then post findings. thanks guys! |
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#11 |
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Regular
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Toronto Ont. Canada
Posts: 202
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Fuel Pump or Filter? Does pump sound normal when running?
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#12 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1990 LX hatch
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hobart Indiana
Posts: 1,984
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#13 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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It is the same problem it almost starts and revs for an instant and pops and backfires loud, leaves a little black on the ground and has been sitting for 45min since last ran a while since ran last
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#14 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 11
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I had the same problem with my 87 GT, believe it or not after a few hundred bucks and lots of running around in circles I found it to be the most simplest thing, The TFI module and pill on the distriburator. I believed I got this at Autozone for 80.00 and replaced the cap and rotor as well. You do have to remove the distriburator to access the side mounting screws on the TFI, will not come off if you dont take it off.My problem was that the car would run great, quick starts, and after running it for more than45 minutes straight it would cut off. It would start about 30-45 minutes later. You might want to try this, also they mentioned clogged cats in this forum, If the cats were clogged this problem would be constant not just after 10 or 15 minutes of not running or running. Its like sticking a potato up the exhaust of a car and trying to fire it!
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#15 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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I replaced the module in the distributor today. So far my test drives have been good.
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#16 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1990 LX hatch
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hobart Indiana
Posts: 1,984
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#17 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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I drive the car for a couple of long trips to day with some short stops.
Still is running and driving great. Thanks Everyone for the help! |
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#18 |
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Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 52
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I don't know if this will help, but I had a 89 GT that used to die after it was runnig for a while in hot weather, I never knew what it was , until after I sold it, I was told it was some module in the motor, (or near it) that was bad and it caused the car to shut off when it got hot, I wish I knew what the name of the module was, I did years ago but thats not helping you now, sorry maybe someone here knows what I mean.
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