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post #1 of 14 Old December 2nd, 2009, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Mass Air Conversion how to?

I am going to switch my 87 speed density to mass air this winter before installing a supercharger in the spring. I will be adding a 255lph fuel pump, 70mm MAF (cal'd for 30), 30# injectors, and a boost & rich/lean gauge with the blower. For now and to make sure it's running right, I will stay with the small 55mm MAF. I have the A9L computer, 55mm MAF, wiring harness, hoses, and bracket bought on ebay (The guy had perfect feedback and said they were working when removed). I don't have any extra pins for the EEC as of now and will probably have to get some.

Has anyone converted and used the below procedures or another that worked well for you?

Can you share your experiences with me so I know what to look out for?

Did anyone leave out the VSS and/or the FPM2 connections mentioned and get idle/driveablility problems?

Mustang Mass Air Conversion | StangNet

The Corral Tech

THANK YOU!!!!!!
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post #2 of 14 Old December 2nd, 2009, 10:10 PM
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kinda of a ghetto way to keep your air flow down???...I wud look into a good tune with a decent maf and do it right
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post #3 of 14 Old December 3rd, 2009, 02:37 AM
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leave the stock maf and injectors in until you throw on the blower. It will save you a "my car runs like shit" thread later

[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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post #4 of 14 Old December 3rd, 2009, 02:47 AM
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^ LOL

I thought this was a pretty sweet write up.

Mass Airflow Conversion - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
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post #5 of 14 Old December 3rd, 2009, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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keep air flow down??? what am I missin??? 70mm should be plenty for the 300HP I will have once blower is installed. I know the heads/intake and exhaust are a restriction. I will take care of those later.

I am not adding the 30# and the 70mm MAF until the blower is installed like I listed above. I am only doing the mass air conversion this winter, and then the blower with extras in the spring. Just in case the car doesn't run right after doing the conversion, I want to know that the conversion is the problem rather than trying to figure out if it's the blower, injectors, conversion, etc. as if I did it all at one time. It will just make things easier to solve if I run into trouble. One at a time.

That is a nice writeup (MM&FF mass air flow conversion - Jesse).

Anyone do this change recently? Tips ??? Tricks ???
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post #6 of 14 Old December 4th, 2009, 03:18 PM
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my 88 has MAF
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post #7 of 14 Old December 4th, 2009, 03:40 PM
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cali 88s had a maf

[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]
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post #8 of 14 Old December 4th, 2009, 07:06 PM
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are they swappable for bigger maf
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post #9 of 14 Old April 8th, 2010, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got around to doing this. I am trying to get the eec4 pins into the connector. They won't go in??? I read there is a retainer that needs pushed back with a paperclip, but I still can't get it to go. I've tried pushing the paperclip in from the computer side of the connector and pushing the eec pin in at the same time, but it won't go. Can someone explain this so I can get these pins in. This is driving me crazy, I've been working at getting the pins in for about an hour now. Had to take a break so I don't break something from frustration. THANK YOU!!
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post #10 of 14 Old April 8th, 2010, 08:21 PM
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Mine does not use the VSS input and I frequently have some surging and stalling when coming off throttle to idle. It could be a combination of other things but I'm sure not using the VSS isn't helping any. Incorporating the VSS is on my list of things to do.

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post #11 of 14 Old April 8th, 2010, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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When you installed the + and - signal wires coming from the MAF, how did you get them into locations 9 and 50 of the computer connector?
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post #12 of 14 Old April 9th, 2010, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy


Please! Anybody!

My car's out of commission until I finish this. I'm dying here!!
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post #13 of 14 Old April 10th, 2010, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Finished the conversion. On startup, I heard a sucking sound coming from the K&N. It was idling around 500-550 rpm. I thought that was kind of low, so I turned the idle adjustment screw about 1 revolution. RPM's came up to around 850 and idle is much more steady. I guess this is just a difference with the new computer. If anyone else does this change, use the procedure in the post from stangnet. I followed it and besides trying to figure out that the red pin retainer needed removed before I could add or move EEC pins , it was a piece of cake. Just FYI for whoever is searching for maf conversions here becuase they're about to do it.
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post #14 of 14 Old May 9th, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbmx View Post
Finished the conversion. On startup, I heard a sucking sound coming from the K&N. It was idling around 500-550 rpm. I thought that was kind of low, so I turned the idle adjustment screw about 1 revolution. RPM's came up to around 850 and idle is much more steady. I guess this is just a difference with the new computer. If anyone else does this change, use the procedure in the post from stangnet. I followed it and besides trying to figure out that the red pin retainer needed removed before I could add or move EEC pins , it was a piece of cake. Just FYI for whoever is searching for maf conversions here becuase they're about to do it.
when you adjust the idle you have to readjust the TPS to make sure your at like .950 with key on thats off the green wire to the black wire. or else the car will run like a bag of shit.
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