5.0 drag car

ih8chevy · February 21st, 2007, 08:28 PM

darrells right, plus ur gonna need a new motor cause the 5.0 block splits around 450 wheel or so. so i would then suggest a 351 they are stronger and easier to hit ur goal with the more c.i. usually a nice rebuild would be the best thing to do, then bore it .30 over to a 357 and then i would start with a good h/c/i since its ur track car u have no regulations, so go with either a custom ground cam or a decent sized cam from comp or crane. then afr 205 heads and a nice wieand style intake to top it all. then ur gonna NEED suspension, and after this ur car should be one nasty mother.

BsGms3 · February 21st, 2007, 08:32 PM

i am willing to spend what i need to make this car the way i want it...but my buddy and i are building it together and going in on everything together...so depending what job i get this summer will determine my budget...i have a very good chance at a $10/hr job...and that will help me get started..bringing in about 500-600 a week

89StangGT · February 21st, 2007, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by ih8chevy

darrells right, plus ur gonna need a new motor cause the 5.0 block splits around 450 wheel or so. so i would then suggest a 351 they are stronger and easier to hit ur goal with the more c.i. usually a nice rebuild would be the best thing to do, then bore it .30 over to a 357 and then i would start with a good h/c/i since its ur track car u have no regulations, so go with either a custom ground cam or a decent sized cam from comp or crane. then afr 205 heads and a nice wieand style intake to top it all. then ur gonna NEED suspension, and after this ur car should be one nasty mother.

Edelbrock Victor Jr's are where its at.

ih8chevy · February 21st, 2007, 11:05 PM

this is true

Originally Posted by 89StangGT

Originally Posted by ih8chevy

darrells right, plus ur gonna need a new motor cause the 5.0 block splits around 450 wheel or so. so i would then suggest a 351 they are stronger and easier to hit ur goal with the more c.i. usually a nice rebuild would be the best thing to do, then bore it .30 over to a 357 and then i would start with a good h/c/i since its ur track car u have no regulations, so go with either a custom ground cam or a decent sized cam from comp or crane. then afr 205 heads and a nice wieand style intake to top it all. then ur gonna NEED suspension, and after this ur car should be one nasty mother.

Edelbrock Victor Jr's are where its at.

ih8chevy · February 21st, 2007, 11:07 PM

well honestly its not going to be easy at all, and u most likely wont get it done this summer or even in three years, but if u a good bit of extra cash laying around it wont hurt. so i would say yank that stock block sell it for like a 100 dollars, than get a 351 or a dart block, and start modding.

Originally Posted by BsGms3

i am willing to spend what i need to make this car the way i want it...but my buddy and i are building it together and going in on everything together...so depending what job i get this summer will determine my budget...i have a very good chance at a $10/hr job...and that will help me get started..bringing in about 500-600 a week

BsGms3 · February 21st, 2007, 11:41 PM

oh definitely..i wasnt planning on getting it done by the summer..im not a magician..haha but..i will have time to work on it for the next three years while i am in college as a hobby...something for free time

tag team · February 26th, 2007, 10:38 PM

if your just starting into this all you should do is get you a good starter ride run the piss out of it . If you do that you will lean fast on how to work on one. then next year build the car up to what you can afford. But whiteboy has the best advise I think for rite now work on your suspension that is were all the power counts. If you have 600 hp it dont mean shit if you cant put it on the ground!!!

Stangzilla · February 26th, 2007, 10:44 PM

Originally Posted by ih8chevy

darrells right, plus ur gonna need a new motor cause the 5.0 block splits around 450 wheel or so. so i would then suggest a 351 they are stronger and easier to hit ur goal with the more c.i. usually a nice rebuild would be the best thing to do, then bore it .30 over to a 357 and then i would start with a good h/c/i since its ur track car u have no regulations, so go with either a custom ground cam or a decent sized cam from comp or crane. then afr 205 heads and a nice wieand style intake to top it all. then ur gonna NEED suspension, and after this ur car should be one nasty mother.

A well tuned and matched combo in a stock block can easily go 500hp+..

Some split some dont...

Stangzilla · February 26th, 2007, 10:48 PM

Originally Posted by BsGms3

oh definitely..i wasnt planning on getting it done by the summer..im not a magician..haha but..i will have time to work on it for the next three years while i am in college as a hobby...something for free time

Since you are doing this with a friend make sure he is a good friend because when it comes down to if you guys break up or something

There could be problems... If I learned nothing in life so far I have learned this. 1. Dont work for family 2. Dont build a drag car with a friend who goes in half on everything... Not sayin its gonna happen to you but something to think about...

89StangGT · February 26th, 2007, 10:58 PM

Originally Posted by Stangzilla

Originally Posted by BsGms3

oh definitely..i wasnt planning on getting it done by the summer..im not a magician..haha but..i will have time to work on it for the next three years while i am in college as a hobby...something for free time

Since you are doing this with a friend make sure he is a good friend because when it comes down to if you guys break up or something
There could be problems... If I learned nothing in life so far I have learned this. 1. Dont work for family 2. Dont build a drag car with a friend who goes in half on everything... Not sayin its gonna happen to you but something to think about...

+1 those were my first thoughts when I read this.

Tony_90fox · February 26th, 2007, 11:01 PM

One of my uncles fucked up my dad's lawn mower and my dad still holds a grudge with him! LOL, just kidding...I have never been a fan of "I'll go in half with you." There are just too many things that can happen wrong when you go that route.

zero · February 27th, 2007, 02:00 AM

ive heard great things about afr heads.. and i opted for the 351w.. im almost done with my project. haha well... for now.

theres always something else youll want to add on.
i agree with the suspension guys though, i was a dummie and went into the motor first. i just started gathering up some new suspension stuff and some crap to stiffen the frame.

Stangzilla · February 27th, 2007, 03:22 PM

+1 on the AFR heads I have the 185's on my 347 and glad I bought them. Just specify when you buy them you want ARP rocker studs. I guess they make their own and I broke a couple.. Requested ARP studs and they gave them to me...

BsGms3 · February 28th, 2007, 01:01 AM

not saying that you guys are wrong about the "going in on half with a friend" thing...but i guess i think of it differently since we have done similar.."going in on half" types of things before..not building a car...but we arent petty arguers about stupid little stuff..not saying that you guys are or w/e.....

Stangzilla · February 28th, 2007, 01:21 AM

Originally Posted by BsGms3

not saying that you guys are wrong about the "going in on half with a friend" thing...but i guess i think of it differently since we have done similar.."going in on half" types of things before..not building a car...but we arent petty arguers about stupid little stuff..not saying that you guys are or w/e.....

....
Said that already but thanks though....

:stupid

NottyBoy93 · February 28th, 2007, 12:59 PM

I am on number 5 (Fox) and I had a hard time deciding how streetable I wanted to be. What I have always done is get the chassis in order, roll cage, K-member, rear end, sub-frame connectors, tubular uppers and lowers coil overs manual rack etc.. then basically build the car around that. That becomes your blank canvas, no matter what you wind up running, 12's or 8's you have a sound safe shell to do it with. My $.02

SVOMan · February 28th, 2007, 02:48 PM

Heres my advice.

1) If you can afford it, buy someone elses incomplete project. You will get a good jumpstart and it will save you money.

2) I assume you want the car to be streetable. If so, keep it on the street as much as possible. If you have serious work to do, get the parts and then try to do the work fast while you are still motivated. I know a lot of mustangs that have been sitting for years half done from a big project, where the owners got distracted and are now not motivated enough to finish. Its a lot easier to stay focused when you can drive it. (basically, I disagree with the tear it apart and rebuild it concept for most people).

3) Suspention work isn't as sexy, but is surprisingly effective. I know 10 years ago we had one guy who would show up at the strip with only suspention work done and would run faster than the other stangs with the basic mods, plus he was dead consistant. And it will just continue to be more and more valuable as you keep building power.

4) I personally think a 90-92 stang is a great car for what you want to do. Cheap, easy to mod and proven.

So, find a car (perferably someone elses project that already has a lot of what you want), get it on the road and work the bugs out of it, then worry about what performance parts to put on it.

- Matt "Knowledge is HorsePower"
02 Mustang GT
84 SVO (Highly Modified)
71 Bronco -351w
69 Fastback -331
63 Econoline -302

Stangzilla · February 28th, 2007, 10:02 PM

what about a 1993 same car as a 90-92 except it had non forged pistons a little diff cam. but if you are redoing the motor it dont matter...

niggadrew · March 1st, 2007, 12:05 AM

Originally Posted by BsGms3

im not saying im playing a game..im saying the very end result i want to be running 1/4's...my time frame for this car is not 6months or however short you have the misconception about...im planning on this being close to done when i am finished with school..meaning at least 3 years...im sorry that i dont know everything there is to know about cars like you, apparantly do. i said. this is my first project car..im just talking about a desired outcome i have for it

i was in the same boat as you about a year ago i had a mustang and wanted to go fast so i started with my intake then exgaust then heads (TFSR are the best!) and cam then i did all my suspension starting with a k member up front and a 4 link in the rear then i bought a big bottle of pony roids and lost it all one night at the drag strip on a pinks race i got my ride back now but it was fuckin hard. so jsut be smart with your shit

87droptop · March 3rd, 2007, 09:56 AM

IF YOU WANNA GO FAST CHEAP THIS IS WHAT YA DO
I HAD A 88 COUPE STOCK SHORTBLOCK AND PORTED 351 HEADS A BADASS C4 WITH BRAKE AND A 200 SHOT WITH TAHT SETUP AND A LITTLE SUSPENSION WORK I RAN 10'S ALL DAY

February 26th, 2007, 10:38 PM	#27
tag team Regular Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: franklin county virgina Posts: 77 iTrader: 0 reviews	if your just starting into this all you should do is get you a good starter ride run the piss out of it . If you do that you will lean fast on how to work on one. then next year build the car up to what you can afford. But whiteboy has the best advise I think for rite now work on your suspension that is were all the power counts. If you have 600 hp it dont mean shit if you cant put it on the ground!!! __________________ all 4 one & one 4 all

February 26th, 2007, 11:01 PM	#31
Tony_90fox Banned Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bowling Green, KY Posts: 3,803 iTrader: 0 reviews	One of my uncles fucked up my dad's lawn mower and my dad still holds a grudge with him! LOL, just kidding...I have never been a fan of "I'll go in half with you." There are just too many things that can happen wrong when you go that route. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [B][U]MM Sapper Squad[/U][/B] [QUOTE=Regency 2007;1676187]MSO's stupidity has never stopped amazing me since the day he joined this forum.[/QUOTE]

February 27th, 2007, 02:00 AM	#32
zero Regular Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: persian gulf Posts: 253 iTrader: 0 reviews	ive heard great things about afr heads.. and i opted for the 351w.. im almost done with my project. haha well... for now. theres always something else youll want to add on. i agree with the suspension guys though, i was a dummie and went into the motor first. i just started gathering up some new suspension stuff and some crap to stiffen the frame. __________________ 92 lx 351W w/ 60 overbore holley 600cfm carb weiand stealth dual plane intake 240/246@.510 cam bbk long tube headders msd coil 5 lug axle conversion 3.55 gears mach1 style 17" rims

February 27th, 2007, 03:22 PM	#33
Stangzilla MM Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: On my way to Baines's house!! Posts: 3,298 iTrader: 0 reviews	+1 on the AFR heads I have the 185's on my 347 and glad I bought them. Just specify when you buy them you want ARP rocker studs. I guess they make their own and I broke a couple.. Requested ARP studs and they gave them to me... __________________ Rotating The Earth 1320 Feet At A Time!! Today, I found out that when I masturbate at night while watching internet porn I cast a huge shadow on the curtain and the entire street is able to see it.

February 28th, 2007, 10:02 PM	#38
Stangzilla MM Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: On my way to Baines's house!! Posts: 3,298 iTrader: 0 reviews	what about a 1993 same car as a 90-92 except it had non forged pistons a little diff cam. but if you are redoing the motor it dont matter... __________________ Rotating The Earth 1320 Feet At A Time!! Today, I found out that when I masturbate at night while watching internet porn I cast a huge shadow on the curtain and the entire street is able to see it.

February 21st, 2007, 08:28 PM	#21
ih8chevy Regular Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 151 iTrader: 0 reviews	darrells right, plus ur gonna need a new motor cause the 5.0 block splits around 450 wheel or so. so i would then suggest a 351 they are stronger and easier to hit ur goal with the more c.i. usually a nice rebuild would be the best thing to do, then bore it .30 over to a 357 and then i would start with a good h/c/i since its ur track car u have no regulations, so go with either a custom ground cam or a decent sized cam from comp or crane. then afr 205 heads and a nice wieand style intake to top it all. then ur gonna NEED suspension, and after this ur car should be one nasty mother.

February 21st, 2007, 08:32 PM	#22
BsGms3 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: OH and NC Posts: 8 iTrader: 0 reviews	i am willing to spend what i need to make this car the way i want it...but my buddy and i are building it together and going in on everything together...so depending what job i get this summer will determine my budget...i have a very good chance at a $10/hr job...and that will help me get started..bringing in about 500-600 a week

February 21st, 2007, 11:41 PM	#26
BsGms3 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: OH and NC Posts: 8 iTrader: 0 reviews	oh definitely..i wasnt planning on getting it done by the summer..im not a magician..haha but..i will have time to work on it for the next three years while i am in college as a hobby...something for free time

February 28th, 2007, 01:01 AM	#34
BsGms3 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: OH and NC Posts: 8 iTrader: 0 reviews	not saying that you guys are wrong about the "going in on half with a friend" thing...but i guess i think of it differently since we have done similar.."going in on half" types of things before..not building a car...but we arent petty arguers about stupid little stuff..not saying that you guys are or w/e.....

February 28th, 2007, 12:59 PM	#36
NottyBoy93 Regular 1993 Notch, 1988 Notch Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Location, Location Posts: 156 iTrader: 0 reviews	I am on number 5 (Fox) and I had a hard time deciding how streetable I wanted to be. What I have always done is get the chassis in order, roll cage, K-member, rear end, sub-frame connectors, tubular uppers and lowers coil overs manual rack etc.. then basically build the car around that. That becomes your blank canvas, no matter what you wind up running, 12's or 8's you have a sound safe shell to do it with. My $.02

February 28th, 2007, 02:48 PM	#37
SVOMan Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 3 iTrader: 0 reviews	Heres my advice. 1) If you can afford it, buy someone elses incomplete project. You will get a good jumpstart and it will save you money. 2) I assume you want the car to be streetable. If so, keep it on the street as much as possible. If you have serious work to do, get the parts and then try to do the work fast while you are still motivated. I know a lot of mustangs that have been sitting for years half done from a big project, where the owners got distracted and are now not motivated enough to finish. Its a lot easier to stay focused when you can drive it. (basically, I disagree with the tear it apart and rebuild it concept for most people). 3) Suspention work isn't as sexy, but is surprisingly effective. I know 10 years ago we had one guy who would show up at the strip with only suspention work done and would run faster than the other stangs with the basic mods, plus he was dead consistant. And it will just continue to be more and more valuable as you keep building power. 4) I personally think a 90-92 stang is a great car for what you want to do. Cheap, easy to mod and proven. So, find a car (perferably someone elses project that already has a lot of what you want), get it on the road and work the bugs out of it, then worry about what performance parts to put on it. - Matt "Knowledge is HorsePower" 02 Mustang GT 84 SVO (Highly Modified) 71 Bronco -351w 69 Fastback -331 63 Econoline -302

March 3rd, 2007, 09:56 AM	#40
87droptop Look Ma! My First Post! Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1 iTrader: 0 reviews	IF YOU WANNA GO FAST CHEAP THIS IS WHAT YA DO I HAD A 88 COUPE STOCK SHORTBLOCK AND PORTED 351 HEADS A BADASS C4 WITH BRAKE AND A 200 SHOT WITH TAHT SETUP AND A LITTLE SUSPENSION WORK I RAN 10'S ALL DAY

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