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Discussing How far can you push Speed Density? in the 5.0 Mustangs Forum. I'm wondering how far you can push speed density and it still function properly. ...

       

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Old February 21st, 2007, 11:47 PM   #1
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How far can you push Speed Density?


I'm wondering how far you can push speed density and it still function properly. I'm wanting to install Explorer intake, gt40p heads, CAI, 70mm TB, Long Tubes and O/R x pipe on my speed density '87 5.0. What flywheel horsepower can I expect off this setup (being stock is ~225) and will the speed density still function properly... And is a cam totally out of the question (maybe a b cam?)
 

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Old February 22nd, 2007, 12:16 AM   #2
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Sorry i cant help you out with all that, but if your looking for a cam i have a NIB "B" cam for sale. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...d-vt15882.html
 
Old February 22nd, 2007, 07:00 AM   #3
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The cam is really the only thing that will affect the speed density. Speed density operates off of vacuum so anything that changes vacuum will change how the car runs. Idle quality is the main issue. Some cams work and some cams you can make work. I would leave the stock cam in if it was between that and a B303. You would be amazed at how much power you can make with a stock cam in those engines. NMRA factory stock cars run 11s with stock cams and heads naturally aspirated.
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 08:00 AM   #4
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Factory Stock cars are crazy, It' still takes alot to make those engines run 11's. Milles heads, zero decked blocks, a reall good built (rule compliant) engine. I think the B cam will work w/o any real problems. Darrell is also right, the stock cam is not the weak link in a 5.0. as far as the mods you listed, I dont know about flywheel HP. but me and a budy built a similar car, and it made 260whp I cant remember the numbrt exactly it was like 263, or 264. That was a mass air car, best time of 13.12w/4.10 and a shitty 2.1 60'.
 
Old February 22nd, 2007, 04:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Darrell
The cam is really the only thing that will affect the speed density. Speed density operates off of vacuum so anything that changes vacuum will change how the car runs. Idle quality is the main issue. Some cams work and some cams you can make work. I would leave the stock cam in if it was between that and a B303. You would be amazed at how much power you can make with a stock cam in those engines. NMRA factory stock cars run 11s with stock cams and heads naturally aspirated.

No shit??? I didn't know they ran those times! with merely stock... Reminds me not to get off topic but what is the block's current max hp rating, I want to get as much power out of it, but don't want to over do it
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 06:10 PM   #6
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450-500
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 09:41 PM   #7
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So the stock cam isn't all that bad? Would adding 1.7 Rocker arms mess with the vacuum, and if it wouldn't, would it make any additional power? My original plans for this car was a 12 sec Daily driver, but instead I'm gonna keep this pretty conservative and just get another car like mine (87-93 coupe 5.0 BLACK) and build a carb'ed beast for a little hot rod car (cheaper to build it fast with a carb).
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 09:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Darrellx14
So the stock cam isn't all that bad? Would adding 1.7 Rocker arms mess with the vacuum, and if it wouldn't, would it make any additional power? My original plans for this car was a 12 sec Daily driver, but instead I'm gonna keep this pretty conservative and just get another car like mine (87-93 coupe 5.0 BLACK) and build a carb'ed beast for a little hot rod car (cheaper to build it fast with a carb).
You could add 1.7 rockers and probably not have any issues. 12s is not hard with speed density and a stock cam. A good friend of mine went 12.8s with his speed density 87 LX hatchback winter beater. It was a 5 speed car that had GT40P heads, Explorer intake, 3.55 gears and slicks. Other than that the car was bone stock right down to the exhaust and air conditioning. The guy can drive though which is a big help. He has been racing manual transmission cars for at least 10 years and his summer car is a 5 speed LX with damn near 600 rwhp .
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 10:11 PM   #9
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wow, that sounds alot like how my car is except i wouldn't have slicks, but i also have rear upper/lower control arms, subframe connectors and an AOD. So you think I could still see 12's with gt40p heads, explorer intake, 70mm TB, LT's, O/R X pipe, 3.55's and those suspension mods?
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 10:17 PM   #10
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beef up the tranny. a stall somewhere in the 2000-3400 rpm range, and a valve body could probably do the trick.
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 10:22 PM   #11
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i was wanting to keep the stock stall for daily driving, it has a B&M shift kit installed
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'87 Mustang 5.0 T5 Coupe
New motor I/P: stock shortblock Edelbrock heads Typhoon Intake 70mm TB 80mm MAF 24lbers 1.7 rr B303 cam. Shooting for 300rwhp?
 
Old February 22nd, 2007, 10:27 PM   #12
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cool man, i think your goal is believable, just trying to give ya a few more little things you could do.
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Originally Posted by Regency 2007 View Post
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Old February 22nd, 2007, 11:53 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Darrellx14
wow, that sounds alot like how my car is except i wouldn't have slicks, but i also have rear upper/lower control arms, subframe connectors and an AOD. So you think I could still see 12's with gt40p heads, explorer intake, 70mm TB, LT's, O/R X pipe, 3.55's and those suspension mods?
It will be harder with an AOD and probably won't happen with street tires. AODs are sloppy transmissions. The T5 is nicer because you can launch it at whatever rpm you want and it sucks alot less horsepower.
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