1987 ford mustang 5.0 302 not firing please help???
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Old February 27th, 2007, 09:16 PM   #1
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1987 ford mustang 5.0 302 not firing please help???


1987 ford mustang 5.0 302 not firing please help???

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my 87 stang had the engine pulled a 302 5.0 H.O. i had the freeze plugs replaced oil pan gasket replaced,and valve cover gaskets replaced. i cranked engine 3 times and all went well so i thought everything ok the last and final time i cranked motor turned over continuosly but didnot fire up. i have power to coil but not from coil to distributor. changed coil but had the same results. am i missing something or do i need to check something that i don't know. firing order ok i think does anyone know it? also rotor moves counterclockwise. please help!!!!!!!!
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Old February 27th, 2007, 10:32 PM   #2
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firing order isnt going to keep you from getting power at the distributor. make sure your leads are set up correctly, and make sure your spark plug wires and the one from the coil to the distributor all have continuity. if you have continuity through them and you find you dont have spark at the plugs... welcome to my life.
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Old March 1st, 2007, 06:01 PM   #3
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no spark please help


what is the procedure for checking continuity on the wires? plus you said leads are you talking about the red and green wire that go to the coil? we checked the red wire and the test light light up strong the green wire lit up but was alot dimmer on the green wire. i appreciate your response like i always said if i was a mechanic i wouldn't be in the forums looking for info. thank u very much i will double check what you said.
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Old March 1st, 2007, 08:26 PM   #4
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Re: no spark please help


Originally Posted by nmarti0218
what is the procedure for checking continuity on the wires? plus you said leads are you talking about the red and green wire that go to the coil? we checked the red wire and the test light light up strong the green wire lit up but was alot dimmer on the green wire. i appreciate your response like i always said if i was a mechanic i wouldn't be in the forums looking for info. thank u very much i will double check what you said.
Use that test light to check for spark- remove plug, hook test light to ground, and put the tip near the plug, ull see it arc. no spark- test it backwards from there.
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Old March 2nd, 2007, 06:29 PM   #5
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ok i've checked the the wire # 1 for spark and i'm not getting it. i pulled the coil from the distibutor and i'm not gettting spark, and checked the coil and turned it over and did not get spark either i guess i'm in your world if you have any other info please let me know @ this point i'll try anything. i can't understand why it won't turn on if i had previously turned it on three times before. incredible!!!! once again i apreciate your help!!!
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Old March 2nd, 2007, 07:39 PM   #6
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alright, so what youre telling me is, you have no spark coming from the coil.. i cant tell if you checked the wire going to the positive (+) side of the coil. you should have 12v dc. dont use a test light, get a multimeter or voltmeter and check this. just turn the car to the run position and check these wires for 12v. the wire running to the positive side of the coil. if there is 12v dc, turn the car off, connect the wire. turn the car back on and remove the canter wire from the distributor coming from the coil. check 12v dc. if its not there, take that wire off the coil and test for 12vdc there. if there is none, or not enough, try to start the car for about 10 sec, just let it spin for ten seconds. the coil will build a charge.. after ten seconds turn the car off and immediatly check for voltage. if there is none, replace your coil. if there is now, reconnect the wire to the coil and the distributor cap. next, remove the distributor cap, are you running points? check the ground to the points. check for wear on the points, check for melted leads, contacts or metal parts. if you are running points and you find theres wear on the contacts of the points, replace them and the condencer. gap the points correctly and make sure the ground is attached inside. if you are running electronic ignition, check any grounds.. make sure the leads are properly installed on the coil. typically green or black are ground wires and should go to the negative (-) side of the coil. the red wire should go to the positive. if you are running electronic ignition and you still dont have spark coming down to your wires after all this, inspect the cap and rotor contacts for corrosion, deposits, uneven wear etc. if the metal spring on the top of the rotor is bent or the contact coming off the rotor is loose or moving around.. replace it. if the cap is at all worn down, replace it. if you still cant find anything to replace, check your wires. continuity is the ability of electricity to pass through somehting. use your multimeter or ohmmeter to check the wires electrical resistance. if after all this, you still cant find anything wrong, you missed something. or your running a different system.
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240/246@.510 cam
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mach1 style 17" rims
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Old March 2nd, 2007, 11:01 PM   #7
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I never use a test light to check spark. Sure it will tell you if you have spark but it will not tell you if you have enough spark. And arent test lights for 12v? And how many thousands of volts go through a spark plug wire?
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Old March 3rd, 2007, 12:05 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Stangzilla
I never use a test light to check spark. Sure it will tell you if you have spark but it will not tell you if you have enough spark. And arent test lights for 12v? And how many thousands of volts go through a spark plug wire?
It completes the circuit from plug to ground and if you hold it close it the tip, it will arc- I do it and it works good. And its not for checking the wire, its to see the spark
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Old March 3rd, 2007, 12:08 AM   #9
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I know that but I have seen cars put out spark but not enough to start it. thats all i'm saying..
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Old March 3rd, 2007, 12:19 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by nmarti0218
ok i've checked the the wire # 1 for spark and i'm not getting it. i pulled the coil from the distibutor and i'm not gettting spark, and checked the coil and turned it over and did not get spark either i guess i'm in your world if you have any other info please let me know @ this point i'll try anything. i can't understand why it won't turn on if i had previously turned it on three times before. incredible!!!! once again i apreciate your help!!!
Ok- checked plugs, nothnin, checked at distributor-nothin, checked ignitiom coil nothin- is the coil gettin power? if so check ohms of primary windings and secondary windings- may be bad- if no signal to coil- check ignition switch with test light
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Old March 3rd, 2007, 08:14 AM   #11
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Maybe your module may be bad. I think you have a EEC-IV right or is it TFI
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Old March 3rd, 2007, 01:12 PM   #12
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if you dont have power at the part of the coil that connects to the distributor cap.... and you have it at the ignition wire to the coil you have a bad coil. if you dont have power at that ignition wire, check the keyed ignition switch in your steering column.. i think on your model its the top and bottom pins closest to your firewall. im not too sure after that.. so hope its your coil or something simple. typically, wires dont just go bad. so if you find it is going to be a wire... look for chaffing, broken wires, or broken connectors.
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msd coil

5 lug axle conversion
3.55 gears
mach1 style 17" rims
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Old March 4th, 2007, 01:31 AM   #13
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well we are making progress!!!!!


hey guys i changed out the module in the distributor and i am now getting spark from my wires and coil. great hey but stang still does not crank. it seems like its out of time. i think one of my friends srewed around with the wires and i don't know if they are right. does anyone know the firing order and procedure to put it in time(some kinda diagram that shows where each wire is suppose to go) so far you guys have been great in helping me out i would appreciate this last favor it should put me on the road. thanks
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Old March 4th, 2007, 11:21 PM   #14
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Firing orders-
HO---1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
non HO---1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

CYLINDER #'s
drivers side firewall to front-8-7-6-5
pass. side firewall to front-4-3-2-1-
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Old March 5th, 2007, 10:51 AM   #15
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well i apreciate it she starts up a little ruff but need timming gun to tweak it. Now to the next problem that i have encountered i went to test drive and she does not want to engage in any of the gears i have an AOD AUTO. NEVER HAD A PROBLEM BEFORE BUT NOW I DO. THIS IS INCREDIBLE I MEAN NOTHING ONLY PARK NO REV. NO DRIVE, NO #2 NO#1 WHAT IS YA'LLS OPINION ON THAT?]
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Old March 6th, 2007, 07:57 PM   #16
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can you actually move the stick, or is it just not engaging the gear.
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351W w/ 60 overbore
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240/246@.510 cam
bbk long tube headders
msd coil

5 lug axle conversion
3.55 gears
mach1 style 17" rims
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Old March 7th, 2007, 01:13 AM   #17
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yes i can put the stick in any gear and the vehicle does not move. and it has tranny fluid in it. also when i look down the driverside header i can see the linkage move back and forth with the vehicle on
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Old March 7th, 2007, 03:13 AM   #18
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wish i knew man, ive only had standard transmissions.. and im still not claiming i know much.
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92 lx
351W w/ 60 overbore
holley 600cfm carb
weiand stealth dual plane intake
240/246@.510 cam
bbk long tube headders
msd coil

5 lug axle conversion
3.55 gears
mach1 style 17" rims
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Old March 7th, 2007, 03:17 AM   #19
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When was the last time it went into gear? What's different? The only thing I can guess is torque converter issues. But I don't have a lot of automatic experience either, so maybe someone can give you more detailed help tomorrow.
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Old March 7th, 2007, 09:31 PM   #20
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I would inspect under the vehicle to make sure transmission linkage is engaging. You may have a stuck governor oras mikebert said maybe your converter is busted. Check the obvious first, and see what you find.
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