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#1 |
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Regular
1989 mustang 5.0 5spd
14.0 guesstimate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Norfolk Va.
Posts: 110
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power steering to manual steering swap
Has anyone here done a power steering to manual steering conversion on a street driven fox body? If so, how do you like it? Would you do it again? How hard was the conversion? I'm asking because my power steering pump is going out on my mustang, and I could either replace the pump, or i could spend a bit more money and go manual steering instead. Thanks in advance!
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#2 |
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Ice Cream Truck Driver
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im doin a manual rack on my 85, from what ive felt, its not that bad, i get a lot more feel outa it, but at the same time the wheel doesnt turn back on its on too well, but i like it. if u wanna do a swap its as easy as installing a new rack, just no lines to fuck w/ and break and piss u off so bad u grab a gun and robb a liquor store just to get shot and arrested and get ganged in the holding cell by two dudes named neil and bob while theyre telling u this is just the beggining, prisons worse, and then your like aww damn if i only got that manual rack and pinion...... by the way, screw ordering a manual rack, just go to your favorite auto parts store and order 1 its cheaper and just as good, a direct fit that works w/ ur old tie rods and steering linkage. just tell em you dont have/want power steering...
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#3 | |
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Regular
1989 mustang 5.0 5spd
14.0 guesstimate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Norfolk Va.
Posts: 110
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1986 lx notch
9.98 @ 135
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Delaware
Posts: 1,522
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I used the flaming river manual rack and it's gravey to turn. You don't even realize you don't have power assist 95 % of the time. A word of advice, do NOT get a quick ratio rack, it'll be much harder to turn , stick with the standard ratio.
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#5 | |
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Ice Cream Truck Driver
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but on on a scale of 1-10 i give it a 9, its the gearing in the rack itself tat makes it turn smooth, i honestly dont know why it doesnt turn back too well. on my 91 lx it did that but i had a small line leak, it would turn real smooth but the returned kinda sucked. but i like the manual. id take that over power anyday. im one of those that like to feel every lil thing from the road up.... i might be slightly black but would never rock a cadillac
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#6 | ||
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Hardcore Enthusiast
88Notch 10.59 @132 / 03 Mach 1 13.1 @104
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Richlands, NC
Posts: 1,758
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Jmanspike
I went on to autozone and advanced and cant find a manual rack and pinion on there at all like mentioned above. I have a 95 gt that I am currently tearing everything apart and really would like to get a rack and pinion if I could that used all the stock tie rods and stuff like u mentioned. Can you point me in the right direction to get this. I was looking at Flammingriver and I just dont have the 6-700 bucks right now for the hole shaban. Thanks for your guidence Tim
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#7 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,387
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I have the flaming river standard ratio kit and have had it for two years. I've daily driven the car and it's one of my favorite mods. Yes steering completely stopped sucks balls but how often does one have to turn the car full lock while not moving?
The feel and response of the manual setup is well worth the money and little time to install. The weight saving factor and the cleanness of the engine bay are bonuses along with the fact that you won't have anymore fluid to worry about leaking. |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
88Notch 10.59 @132 / 03 Mach 1 13.1 @104
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Richlands, NC
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Did you have to buy the whole kit??
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#9 |
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Regular
1989 mustang 5.0 5spd
14.0 guesstimate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Norfolk Va.
Posts: 110
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Thanks! what else did you have to buy with the rack to make it work with your set up? was it a straight bolt in like the factory set up that was mentioned earlier?
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#10 | |
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Regular
1989 mustang 5.0 5spd
14.0 guesstimate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Norfolk Va.
Posts: 110
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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#11 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,387
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I did because :
A: I don't like using that tiny weak looking adapter that you can buy to use your stock power steering shaft with the manual rack. B: Yes because the kit comes with everything to get it done, no runs to the hardware store or surprises. c: Yes because the correct length tie rods are provided (manual and power use different length tie rod) The install is straight forward and not difficult at all but you will need an alignment afterwords. |
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#12 | |
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Ice Cream Truck Driver
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#13 | |
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Regular
1984 Mustang LX
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Austin
Posts: 57
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#14 | |
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Regular
1989 mustang 5.0 5spd
14.0 guesstimate
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Norfolk Va.
Posts: 110
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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#15 |
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Regular
1984 Mustang LX
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Austin
Posts: 57
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The conversion is relatively easy; maybe a 4-hour job if you go slow.There may be someone on the list, or a junkyard owner, who would gladly give you his or her manual rack in exchange for your power steering (PS) components.
Put the front of the car up on ramps, not jackstands, to hold the wheels straight. Remove the PS fluid reservoir. It’s held on with a few 10-mm screws and you need to drain its contents by detaching the far end of its hose. Loosen and remove the PS belt by loosening the bolts securing the PS pump to its brackets and swinging the pump toward the engine. Disconnect the small electrical connector attached to the pump, that comes from the front of the engine’s head. Tie the now-dangling wire to the engine’s head with a tie wrap. Remove the PS pump by removing its remaining mounting bolts. Drain any fluid as you disconnect it from the hoses that connect it to the PS rack. Remove the PS pump mounting bracket from the engine by removing its mounting screws. You must use a mallet and block of wood to slide the bracket’s mounting sleeve to one side (it moves in only one direction; I can’t remember which) to get at one of the mounting screws. Disconnect and drain the metal PS fluid tubes that feed the rack. Carefully snake them from out of the car’s "mouth." Detach the steering tie rods. You have a choice here, between unscrewing each tie rod in the middle and removing it from the corresponding wheel hub. On one side I removed the cotter pin from the steering knuckle at the wheel hub, inverted the castellated nut, and beat the knuckle out of the hub with a hammer. On the other end I unscrewed the inner tie rod from the outer tie rod. Remove the rack by removing its four mounting screws and loosening the attachment to the steering column, right above the universal joint. (BTW, you’re swapping U-joints so your manual rack’s U-joint will accompany the rack—this fact dispels the fatuous suggestion that your PS U-joint mightn’t be up to the job of turning a manual rack.) Note how the U-joint lines up with a white dot painted on the column. Wipe away any grease covering the white mark (this mark denotes "straight-ahead" on the steering wheel). Install the manual rack, using new cotter pins to replace any pins that you removed, and doing your best to make the tie rods of equal length. Also it will behoove you to use all new tie rods. Get the front end (toe-in/toe-out) aligned immediately. Your car won’t steer right until you do and it could be extremely dangerous to drive it in that condition. It will also wear the tires unevenly. |
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