supercharger install
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Old March 31st, 2010, 10:15 PM   #1
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supercharger install


Guys by now the regualrs know me, I am finally installing my supercharger on my junk car, Let me tell you I have a used low mile kit that was supposed to be utilized with a smog pump, I dont have a smog pump, I have had to fab brackets, I have had to cough up a stock crank pulley, re locate the ps pump change injectors, fuel pump while i was at it I put a nice x pipe on magnaflow cat back system and I am still working on the supercharger, I wish MUSTANK was hers to tell me my CAM wasnt the right grind, and my bolt heads werent the right color, and my hood latch didnt have the right spring etc etc no actually I could use some pointers from him. This has been a BITCH!
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Old March 31st, 2010, 10:40 PM   #2
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So what is it that your asking about....or just venting?
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Old April 1st, 2010, 07:13 AM   #3
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re


ya see old age is setting in I forgot to ask the main question! Where would be a safe place to set my base timing?
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Old April 1st, 2010, 09:47 AM   #4
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I'm guessing your running an s-trim or a novie because it involves the passenger side of the engine? 10 degrees base timing, and then having the tuner lock it can make plenty of power on 10-14 psi. I did that and I was able to make 400 with 10psi shutting it down at 5100 rpm with my valvesprings wanting to bend like slinkies.
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Old April 1st, 2010, 04:43 PM   #5
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re


thank you!
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 09:38 PM   #6
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re, a Little progress but nothing is fitting its been Hell


The bracket I had to fab to get the Alternator to work because I am not running a smog pump



a little dip stick hold down fab





fuel lines in the way of supercharger inlet and valve covers are tall they are causing issues with inlet, more fab work might be in order



The induction tube is so small it falls inside my 70 mm throttle body, should I bend, weld and fad some 70/75 mm tubing for a new inlet?
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 09:52 PM   #7
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Have you test ran the belt without the smog pump? I have the smog delete pulley just so the belt clears the water pump.....

Last edited by Uber88GT; April 2nd, 2010 at 10:24 PM.
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 10:10 PM   #8
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re


no, it might not clear I expect problems, good Lord its been a nightmare so far
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 10:23 PM   #9
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It was nothing to put in the delete pully, I'm running A/C so the belt has a little more height coming off the smog pulley, looks like your PS pump is in the stock location to, might have to move it up...
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 10:33 PM   #10
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re


I do have the brand new kit here to move it up! I would have to get the smog pump delete kit though
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Old April 5th, 2010, 07:46 PM   #11
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I'm not going to need to run a smog delete kit, but the mess of fittings coming off the inlet is loony its all home made to run a blow off vlv which I agree is needed to avoid breaking the belt but there is 5 pvc 90's there. I have everything bolted up ready to go except for fuel lines, my stock lines are still in place I have hreard of guys not using the FMU, is this a good practice or not?
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Old April 5th, 2010, 07:52 PM   #12
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Where are U in NC?? Im In Richlands
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Old April 5th, 2010, 08:10 PM   #13
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re


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Old April 5th, 2010, 09:31 PM   #14
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You won't need a FMU since you dyno tune yours. They are more for do-it-yourself tuning
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Old April 5th, 2010, 09:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by real57vetteguy View Post
I have hreard of guys not using the FMU, is this a good practice or not?
You'll only need the FMU if your injectors are too small. Looks like you have 42's, that should be fine but you will not know without some A/F and HP numbers once its going. Running 42's without a chip and even with a chip is very tricky to keep idling good. Some tuners are better than others.
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Old April 5th, 2010, 09:47 PM   #16
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Not that every situation is the same, but my buddies procharged motor wouldn't idle to save it's life with the 42's before tuning and was rich as all get out. Tuner told him to turn his fuel pressure down to like 20 psi so he could finish working out any bugs and get it loaded on the trailer to bring to him. Now that it done, his idles really good now...
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Old April 5th, 2010, 11:43 PM   #17
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do exactly what flattus said, i'm running the same setup....i's say lock out the timing at 10 and have the guy tune from there, no need for the fmu once you get the chip installed, its kind of a band-aid for not tuning if you ask me. the 42 injectors should give you no problems at all if the tuner knows what he is doing, i as well as two other friends run 42s and it idles and revs as nice as can be. are you running a wideband? i'd recommend one just to make sure things dont go bad, and if they do you may be able to prevent some damage. my fuel pressure is 39 psi fyi
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Old April 6th, 2010, 12:30 AM   #18
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baine is 100% correct. I tuned my car myself and burned my chip using moates products. I have a vortech charger and 42lb injectors. No fmu not needed. 10 degrees base timing and 22 advance timing. wot a/f is 11.8 to 12.5 The cam is a old e cam and the car idles great at 900rpm and drives like a stock can in traffic. I can post videos of idle if need be.
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8 sec 1/4 times are soo 2009. Im running 6 sec slips in my dd 302 pig with street tires
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Nah not even stock form. I just made it up.
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Old April 6th, 2010, 12:35 AM   #19
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to add a note on my idle, mine is 750 (ish) just as stock, and has no problems, i have videos in a few threads if you're interested....or search it on youtube, same name
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Old April 6th, 2010, 12:40 AM   #20
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I had mine around 750 to 800 for a while but I wound up bumping it up a lil to get rid of some of the chop
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It can't be that fast cause it still has the stock hood.
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Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
8 sec 1/4 times are soo 2009. Im running 6 sec slips in my dd 302 pig with street tires
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Nah not even stock form. I just made it up.
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